John Scott Posted February 2, 2002 Share Posted February 2, 2002 For those of you considering Scat, the 9000 series 6" neutral balance is running around $280. 4340 standard weight forged is about $600. The superlight forged is pushing close to $1000. Scat claims the 9000 good for 600 hp. How fast do you want to go? After all, its only money. My point with h vs I beams was not an issue of strenth, but $100+ savings on the I beams can go somewhere else in the engine if you don't need the H beam. JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted February 2, 2002 Share Posted February 2, 2002 btw its BARELY streetable for a daily driver (its my weekend toy not my main transportation) and if your useing an auto you will need a 2500-2800 stall converter to make it work correctly, if this is your main transportation I HIGHLY RECOMMEND A CAM (1) step milder like the CROWER # 0483 (221/230 duration .525/.545 lift on a 114 LSA) it will cost you only about 25 hp but give you a much more street friendly engine! and since it will also boost your low end torque you may even have a car that will spin the tires into smoke even faster, as a matter of fact I sometimes wonder if I made the correct choice as the greater torque instead of top rpm hp is normally more usefull on the street! either way youll have a kick a$$ engine but be sure to check ALL clearances because their close to the minimum allowable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted February 2, 2002 Author Share Posted February 2, 2002 Well it looks like I'll be searching for a good 6 inch rod/ piston Combo. We'll see... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 2, 2002 Share Posted February 2, 2002 Mikelly, I too had a similiar experience with a local builder some years ago. I wrecked my sleeper wagon and bought the remains back from the insurance co. as I had a fresh .030 over 350 with forged TRW pop-ups steel crank 4 bolt and zero gap rings at least that's what my receipt said. The wreck was so bad I thought I better disassemble the motor that's when I discovered no 4 bolt, not .030 over but .040 over, not forged but cast pistons, not a steel crank but a cast crank, and lastly the foil and cellophane tear-off's from a pack of cigarettes stuck on the oil pick-up screen. (real clean assembly practices) I confronted him with the hard evidence. I did not come in anger when I approached him I said maybe given that you build so many motors this must have been a mistake and he responded that I would have to leave his shop and he didn't want to discuss it. I said getting mad at this point I'll bet you don't want to discuss it just give me my money back and I'll give you the boat anchor you missrepresented to me for $4500.00. He came at me with a wrench screaming and cussing. I sued in small claims court and won he didn't even show up. The court gave him 45 days to pay, and on the 46th day I went to pick up my money at the court house...... no money he had bankrupted on the 42nd day and the money was un-collectable. The guy left town and moved to another town about 50 miles away and set up his machine shop again and there is nothing I can legally do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted February 2, 2002 Share Posted February 2, 2002 bbbowtie Im really sorry you got screwed but next time BUILD YOUR OWN, its the only way to MAKE 100% SURE that everythings CORRECTLY DONE! if you need help , post questions here or at CHEVYTALK.COM but read these two books cover to cover first untill you understand EVERYTHING TOTALLY! (how to build the SMALL BLOCK CHEVROLET) BY LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB AND (how to build max performance CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS on a budget!by DAVID VIZARD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted February 3, 2002 Share Posted February 3, 2002 Mike, very sorry to hear about you motor not being what it was supposed to be. Can you imagine that motor letting go because you thought it had the good parts in it - at 150+ in the desert, oil spitting out under the tires, etc.? I wonder if these turkeys consider that they could actually be endangering peoples lives by misrepresenting what is in the motor they sell you. After going through my motor the second time, and paying attention to ALL the little nits, I am a bit burnt out and had been considering a crate motor the next time around. Well, this thread had removed that consideration from my mind. I now have all the special tools need for assembly, the books, experience, and of course Grumpyvette and others here and on Chevytalk. Why the heck would I consider NOT doing my own motor again. I'm back to reality now. Mike, if you need a hand with anything, just holler - don't hurt yourself with just one hand free! BTW, where there dowel pins in the block for the head that fell off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted February 3, 2002 Author Share Posted February 3, 2002 Well I'm a changed man after opening up my crate motor... I'm gonna go with Forged rods and forged pistons... And I'm gonna put Total Seal rings in with waveloc rod bolts. I'll do it right and be done the first time. The parts I'm selling would make a good 350hp motor, but I'm pushing 540hp and I just don't want to chance it. Thanks Grumpy for your info offline! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted February 3, 2002 Share Posted February 3, 2002 here look at this stuff it may help http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=19884&prmenbr=69 70 http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=225567&prmenbr= 6970 http://www.etoolcart.com/product.asp?0=203&1=215&3=2807 http://www.etoolcart.com/product.asp?0=203&1=215&3=665 http://www.etoolcart.com/product.asp?0=203&1=215&3=1992 http://www.etoolcart.com/product.asp?0=203&1=215&3=2348 http://www.etoolcart.com/product.asp?0=203&1=215&3=99 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted February 3, 2002 Author Share Posted February 3, 2002 Grumpy, I have everything on your list except the compression kit, and for $30 it is mine. My engine lift's piston siezed up on me, so I need to replace that unit... I need a rod bolt stretch gauge too! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 3, 2002 Share Posted February 3, 2002 grumpyvette, that bad experience I had with the corrupt engine builder happened about 10 years ago and it prompted me to build my own from then on. I now build my own and I have purchased my own measuring tools just to keep the machine shops honest. I have learned the hard way that just because a machine shop is famous for doing "big name racers" work doesn't mean "you" are going to get the same quality and dedication to detail unless you let them know up front that you are going to go behind them and check. Then guess what happens they put your stuff on the back burner and it takes forever to get it done. I've even been told that if I wanted to pay a "performer monetary bonus" I could get it right in very short order. That's CRAP. I have been B.S.'s by some pretty hip shops and if they pick up on the fact that you don't know what's going on they will bone you in a heartbeat. It's a sad commentary about quality and craftsmanship in America. It all seems to be about the money anymore. The attitude seems to be get it done as fast as possible and close is good enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted February 3, 2002 Share Posted February 3, 2002 I've been taken by bad engine builders too. Had a new company trash my block, really nice rods, crank, late 80s, then go under a month later. This was to be my dream engine, Arias, Mondello, Engle, $1700 in the heads(lots of cash then) and it went down the drain. This time I talked to the successful drag racers, other machinists, builders, and confirmed everything. 18+ years flowing heads, building race engines. Happy customers. Doing it yourself is only as good as your ability and knowhow. How many of us have access and ability to the equipment to machine/ balance/ blueprint an engine to race standards. You can assemble an engine, use your micrometer to check on some of the clearances. You can confirm the parts going into it. You still need to have some faith in your machinist and balancer. A good builder/balancer will document every tolerance, piece and give you the specs. In some cases, a reputable builder knows what will work on a specific combo., cutting edge technology, or altitude. Do some background checks. If you have the time and expertise, by all means go for it. I no longer have the time. My idea of what works are dated. The time I save by having a pro doing the assembling, blueprinting, flow testing, tuning I can earn another $1000. JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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