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300ZT ECU on L28


Doug71zt

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After searching the archives - I still need a little help on the 300z ecu swap onto the l28. Specifically - what sensors and outputs did you eliminate? I have no smog restrictions here in Canada and am trying to make this a simple as possible. Try this - I am keeping the l28 distributor with 300z wheel, FPR , injectors, TB, dropping resistors, air regulator, throttle switch. I am going to use the 300z - CHT, MAF, 02 sensor,detonation sensor. I want to delete the VSS, Fuel temp sensor, idle-up solenoid valve, EGR, AIV, Pressure regulator control valve,Aux air control valve. I am going to switch injector wire #2 and #5 to change from the V6 to L6 firing order and change the fuel pump wiring to eliminate the pump voltage control. I realize that there will be no MAF self clean as there will be no VSS - is this a problem? How is drivablility with this set-up? Thanks in advance - Doug

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drivability is great,it is a least 15hp to the wheels instantly with a way crazier wot feeling to it, and idle is better. you must run an air cleaner like a k and n and do not dare to remove the screens, since it does not clean itself, also i would say you should clean that air cleaner way more often. i dont know about most of the sensore, but i have noticed a peculiar thing, some times the cars run good w/o o2 connected and some dont run so good. mine runs very well w/o .2 and has problems with o/2 connected with idling, but that is the weirdest thing. good luck with that swap, if you need the ecu let me know.

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If you are swapping a turbo ECU, you do not need to swap the injector wires. The turbo injector wiring maps 1:1 to the L28. On the O2 sensor, make sure to use one specifically for the year ECU you have - some of the ECUs use a different technology sensor, and the curve is different - I know mine wouldn't work at all with the old 1 wire sensor. Other than being a bit cold-blooded, the driveability is excellent once the car warms up a bit, but this is no different from when I ran the stock turbo ECU. I don't run the automatic idle or AAC or any of the junk you mentioned, but I am using a fuel temp sensor. If you leave the sensor open, you will get an ECU code, so you need to terminate the wire with a resistor, or simply wire in the sensor. I zip-tied mine to the fuel rail.

 

I'm curious - I keep hearing the cleaning cycle will not work for the MAF because the speed sensor is not connected? Is there any way around that? I suspect my recently finicky idle may be from a dirty MAF wire now...especially since I cannot find the normal vacuum leak responsible for such behavior...

 

Edit: I checked ignition firing order and the common-wired injector banks for the L28 and the VG...I understand why one would swap #2 and #5 injector wires, but I think the injector banks need to be wired according to the L28 firing order and not the VG for this conversion.

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Thanks Tony for picture. I have always wondered what the burn off looked like. I must say, we are a sick bunch of individuals for even caring what the MAF looks like inside.

 

As for the 300ZXT EFI swap, I have been running this for a year now and am much happier than with the 280ZXT EFI. The driveability is much better and the parts were easier to find in my local junkyards. I am not running the fuel temp sensor and receive an error code. I am only running the cylinder head temp sensor, TPS, O2, and MAF. The car starts immediately when cold, runs well and pulls hard despite only having 6psi of boost. My only real complaint is the lack of tuning available.

 

Josh

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This is where I'm at with my ecu (300zxt-'86). I've found the formula for how the engine calculates the idle pulsewidth. K*(Q/N)=Basic Pulsewidth. K=injector constant, Q=air quantity (maf voltage converted to hex value) N= engine rpm. I have found the maf conversion table and sort or, but I'm not sure if it's right yet, found the rpm value location. I know where the fuel, timing, and a bunch of the conditioning maps are. As soon as the injector constant is found we are good to go gentlemen. The rb20 guys downunder are already doing this with their cars. IF THERE ARE ANY SOFTWARE GUYS ON THIS PAGE THAT ARE GOOD WITH THE BASIC MOTOROLA PROCESSORS EMAIL ME!!!

Bernard

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You can manually do the cleaning yourself by grounding pins C, D then apply 12V to E, and F. This will make the wire glow. Do this for about 1 second.

 

I think C and D are usually grounded while the car is on, and E gets power while the car is on, so if you wanted to control the cleaning from inside the car all that you'd have to do is apply 12V to pin F. I think pin F is only used as a signal to turn up the power, the current flows through E. So, no relay would be required. Really simple, here is the layout.

 

mafclean.gif

 

After you turn off your car, turn the ignition back to on and now you can do the cleaning while the car is not running.

You should get one of those push button switches that don't click and stay on, just one of those buttons that are only on when you physicly have your finger on it because you only want to do this for about 1 second.

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I've messed with 8 bit motorola processors, and HC11. I have a 300zx turbo ECU laying around if you could tell me how to probe the thing I may be able to help.

If it's a different architecture than I'm used to I could probably pick it up quickly.

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Hi Doug,

 

Since your into looking into the 300ZXT setup, I have one for sale. I just switched to the SDS system and was running for the first time Sunday.

 

Mine is modified so you can use the 280ZXT harness with no modifications to the harness. You still have to switch the #5 & 2 injector, I didn't have to on my car. Also the wire that powers up the fuel pump reroute the wire directly from the battery - switched. Includes Modified computer, MAF and harness with ground wire for MAF. Price is $300 shipped.

 

If you decided to go back to the 280ZXT computer then rehookup the one wire for the fuel pump you rerouted to the battery, put back the afm and un ground the one wire, switch the #5 and #2 back and your done.

 

I'm going to post it in buy /sell section if your not interested.

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hey tony fruzza, or others who my care to chime in.

 

can you contact me privately through email so i can get instructions on how to replace the entire 280zx n/a harness with the 300zx n/a harness. i know you did the 300zxt harness, so your help is very apprieciated!

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Hey Ron - thanks for the offer. I have SDS on my personal 240zt and am very happy with it. I am currently upgrading to Dodge super 60 injectors that are 52lb/hr along with a larger intercooler and custom rail and FPR. My best time on stock injectors was 13.2 @ 104. This 300Z ecu install is a low-buck option for a friend and I have all the parts required. How much difference did your modified ECU make in your car?

Tony (or any others that have done it) - I would like to use the 300z harness and was wondering if there is any problems you encountered installing this harness in a 240?

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I haven't installed the 300zx setup, am going to adapt the 300zx maf to the 280zxt ecu though since lots of people are running with that setup. Should have the parts in tomorrow to start playing. Will work on adapting the maf to 280z and na 280zx, and possibly L series maxima or others that are similar with interest.

My setup will allow for the maf output to be fully adjustable, allowing use of larger injectors, different engine configureation, ect. Hope to have a package deal for Z car owners for under $120. It's basicly a piggy back system that is programable with a PC.

The main problem with people going with the stock 300zx setup is the lack of injector pulse control, making it so that you have to run stock sized injectors, or have JWT reprogram it for big $$$ and still not be exact for your engine setup. Although realizing JWT has put a lot of time into their product and mine is still on the drawing board, so consider Ron's offer if that's what you're looking for.

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Originally posted by Tony Fruzza:

I haven't installed the 300zx setup, am going to adapt the 300zx maf to the 280zxt ecu though since lots of people are running with that setup. Should have the parts in tomorrow to start playing. Will work on adapting the maf to 280z and na 280zx, and possibly L series maxima or others that are similar with interest.

My setup will allow for the maf output to be fully adjustable, allowing use of larger injectors, different engine configureation, ect. Hope to have a package deal for Z car owners for under $120. It's basicly a piggy back system that is programable with a PC.

The main problem with people going with the stock 300zx setup is the lack of injector pulse control, making it so that you have to run stock sized injectors, or have JWT reprogram it for big $$$ and still not be exact for your engine setup. Although realizing JWT has put a lot of time into their product and mine is still on the drawing board, so consider Ron's offer if that's what you're looking for.

I'm curious Tony, how will your adaptation of Z31 MAF to a 280ZX (and turbo?) ECU allow the use of bigger injectors? And why would this not be possible with a 300ZX ECU?
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The L28 NA install should be just the same as the turbo setup, just some slightly different programming on my part.

 

I'd like to be able to reprogram the ecus for the 300zx. To properly control timing, I think that's the best thing to do. As to weather program changes will need to be done with the 280z/x/t is yet to be known.

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