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OK, Now I'm totally confused....


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Had a couple of guys from one of the Chevy boards contact me offline and tell me NOT to get rid of my LT1 PM rods. I'm confused. They claim to have these rods in a couple of nitrous motors making well over 700HP... So should I just get these rods checked, and install the top of the line waveloc bolts and keep them, or what???????

 

Mike Kelly :confused:ugg.gifbonk.gif

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its your choice but the chevy pink rods are definitely not as strong as some of the aftermarket rods, heres what the chevy catalog says about it,and I would not use them above 450-475 hp myself. BTW those (700hp nitrious engines with those rods have likely never seen a dyno or are on EXTREMELY borrowed time! ;) )

 

12495071 - Connecting Rod Kit (5.70")

This kit includes 8 of P/N 10108688 high quality 5.70" length PM connecting rods which are used in the LT1 and LT4 Corvette engine in place of the old "pink rod" for higher strength and reliability. These rods can be used in competition or as street rods BELOW 500 horsepower. Use P/N 10108688 for single rod replacement.

 

look here; if you don,t believe me

 

https://www.spoperformanceparts.com/

 

(put in 12495071)

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Mike,

 

I certainly do not have anything to add specific to your question, but I agree with Grumpy about HP claims. I do not believe HP claims unless someone has a dyno sheet or a time slip to back up the claim. Now, that is not to say that some of the claims of 700hp might not be true, but as Grumpy said, they are probably on borrowed time or have never seen competition. Too many of these rods are limited to cruises, parking lot burnouts or quick 2-sec bursts. You on the other hand plan on having sustained high RPMs in the upper gears where the engine is under the most load. Keep that factor in mind as you ponder your decision.

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Mike,

I agree with both statements above.

Piece of mind is priceless! Nothing worse than having that nagging voice in the back of your head, wondering if your motor is about to let go!

My rule of thumb (for what it's worth) is that it only hurts (your wallet) once to buy good stuff. I use this thought process whenever I am considering a tool purchase especially!

Just my 2c worth!

Tim

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Guys, believe me, I'm not questioning the comments made by Grumpy, as I'm 100% sure that aftermarket rods are WAY better. I'm just sorting it all out and I've had some sticker shock on prices for Forged rods and pistons... I'm trying to get the BEST deal possible, and I can't get anything for under $800 so far...

 

Mike

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look heres some good rods (but not the only good rods)

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/IEC/IECCR/Billet.html(good choice)

 

http://www.kendrick-auto.com/corillo_rods.htm (what Id buy if I was really bucks down)

 

http://www.hayabusazone.com/rods.html (one of the best rods)

 

http://www.cdpautomachine.com/ecatalog/eaglerods.html

(very good price for what you get but not as strong as the lunati rods)

 

http://www.herbertperformance.com/Catalog/ConnectingRods/Oliver_rods/oliver_rods.html

 

(about the best there are at any reasonable price)

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I have every intention of using that car to get 540hp out of it, which is what the numbers say I should make... And yes, Silver state, Big Bend, some kind of open road/ major lapping event that will reach DEEP into the 180s or (MUCH) higher. Bottom line is I'm being cheap here and I know it... I have a car to finish, parts to buy for customers control arms, a building to construct, a house to do major work on (Converting garage to house space) and now I find that the bottom end of my motor needs R&R... and the crank will need polished or turned, thanks to the pump cavitating... Been a banner month!

 

OK, enough whining...

Mike :rolleyes:

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Mike, as you know, the Rods are the most stressed parts of the motor. You NEED good 4340 Forged Rods with SPS Waveloc bolts for that motor, with the intended power range and uses. I'd hate to hear about that motor letting go at 160 mph and the oil washing out the tires... twak.gif

 

It's so easy to spend YOUR money. flamedevil.gif

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Hey Mike, my engine builder gets jobber pricing and usually charges 10% above that when building an engine. I'll ask him if he would sell for that, so let me know exactly what you're looking for! I'd sell you my New Forged Manley pistons but you're building a stroker right?

 

Mark

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Guest Anonymous

Mike, are you still going to be using that car in the Silver city classic? Considering the high rpm loading you'll be putting on the rods for a extended period, the extra money is well spent. Condolences on your wallet though bud, I know the stuff is pricey, but it could be worse, it could be (carillo or add your premium rod manuf. here) aluminum rods. smile.gif Not much help from this reply, but trying to find the positive side of a expensive outlay... :D

 

Regards,

 

Lone

 

Ps: How'z the wrist?

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Yup, I'm building a stroker 383 and need 6 inch rods and a piston that will yield a 9.8:1-10:1 compression ratio with a 76cc chamber head. I may end up with really expensive rods, and KB Pistons, but I'm still doing research. I may wait until the rest of the car is 100% done and then go from there...

cry2.gif

Mike

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Guys, I got a compy of Desktop Dyno from a buddy of mine last night and I'm gonna screw around with it a bit...

 

Also, Jamie T. came to my house yesterday and saw my rods. I need to have someone LOOK at them, as they have been woprked on BIG TIME and I need to make sure I don't already have something besides the stock PM Rod... Also, the crank spins in the journals supersmooth, which was an indicator to Jamie and me both that this motor had some attention to the build process spent on it, including some balancing in the system...

b_hand.gif

Mike

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http://www.racepartsstore.com/ross.html

 

http://www.herbertperformance.com/Catalog/Pistons/SRP_Pistons/srp_pistons.html

 

you can,t use cast and hypereutectics are not really up to long distance racing either but most forged pistons will be fine, don,t get the idea that hyper pistons will work , they are much better than cast but if the motor gets into detonation the hypers crystalize and crack MUCH FASTER THAN FORGED PISTONS.

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Well it looks like I'm getting those rods Grumpy found (Prowler 6 inch H beam 4340)for $289 and I found a set of Wiseco forged pistons with moly rings on e-bay I'm planning to bid on once I confirm I have a .30 overbore...

 

If I can get it all for less than $700 I'll do back flips... then I'll just get the crank turned and order some bearings and be done... :rolleyes:

Mike

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Ron, That was the whole reason the motor was torn down in the first place. I absolutely screwed up when I originally had the motor built...But looking back on it now, it wouldn't have mattered, since the pump pickup tube broke off and the motor starved for oil ruining the bearings and causing me now to have the crank turned! JOY!!! I'm so sick of this whole motor issue....

 

Mike :rolleyes:

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Whoa! I missed this conversation - Mike when did you find this out?! Ouch! As for cost on rodspistons etc. - tell me about it. I've got Eagle rods and forged pistons in my motor. Not super expensive stuff but not cheap either! But I don't have to worry about it failing unless something freakish happens :eek:

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Mikelly

I THINK YOUR MISSING THE POINT.....IF YOU HAD BALLANCED THAT ENGINE, USED ALL arp BOLTS, USED A BRACED/BOLT ON, OIL PUMP PICKUP IN A BAFFLED OILPAN AND USED ONLY QUALITY PARTS IT WOULD NOT HAVE VIBRATED AS MUCH AND WOULD MOST LIKELY NOT HAVE VIBRATED/BROKEN THAT OIL PUMP PICKUP

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