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350 4 BOLT MAIN,CORVETTE BLOCK


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TO ALL THE CHEVY GURUS ON THIS FORUM PLS HELP,I HAVE FINALLY DECIDED TO GO CHEVY FOR MY V8 SWAP,DUE TO THE FACT THAT ITS BEEN DOCUMENTED THE MOST,HERES WHAT I NEED....

I FOUND A 350 4 BOLT MAIN,CORVETTE ENGINE BLOCK ,30 OVER AND I'M VERY INTEREDTED IN BUYING IT BUT I NEED TO KNOW WHAT I'LL NEED TO DO TO GET AT LEAST 450BHP FROM THIS MOTOR I'M ON A BUDGET THIS WILL TAKE A WHILE SO I CAN SHOP FOR PARTS SLOWLY.

I INTEND FOR IT TO BE A DAILY DRIVER(WANNA KILL THOSE HONDAS!)SO I'LL NEED THE POWER TO BE RELIABLE.

ANY AND ALL TIPS WILL BE APPRECIATED

ALSO WHATS THE BEST MOUNTS TO USE,JTR,JCI,SCARAB OR MSA.

THANKS A LOT FOLKS.

 

JAV240Z

("AN I-6 DOES NOT A SUPERCAR MAKE") :eek:

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I can answer one question - I'd go with the JTR kit. I think most everyone agrees that it is the most well-thought out design with the most potential for performance, and the manual is THE MANUAL. I would especially go this route if you're going to be doing the swap over time and buying parts slowly - in the long run, i think you'll be happier despite the price over Scarab. There are plenty of happy Scarab drivers around and one or two MSA swapped cars - John's Cars is pretty much a no-no, from what I hear, as far as price and customer service go. My vote is for the JTR kit.

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Javv,

Firstly, get the conversion manual from Jagsthatrun.com. That will give you all the info you will need (or at least most of it), then order the mount kit from them too.

Secondly, half that amount of hp will kill hondas and mustangs all day long, so since you're on a budget, go for a max of 300hp, which will be more than enough to be a real killer.

450+ hp will cost a bit in good quality parts that will hold together with prolonged reliability.

Tim

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Guest greimann

Just my opinion, but you don't need 450 HP to kill Honda's. A 350 with 450 HP is going to require a fairly lumpy cam and loud exhaust that won't get you many races and be a pain to drive every day. Forced induction is another option but it is complicated an expensive. How about a 350 HP target and a 100 shot of juice for those rare occaisons that you hook up a Viper or Z06. rockon.gif

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the best way to get reliable hp is great flowing heads and large displacement. now the best way in the long run will be to build a 383 (10/1 cpr) with a set of canfield 220 cc heads and a good cam like a CRANE #113821 that combo will get you about,435hp/440 tq with a 750 carb, 1 3/4" headers and a victor jr intake , all of which you should be able to get for about,$3600-$3800 its a hot but streetable combo.

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hail.gif

GRUMPVETTE I NEED TO BE ABLE TO CONTACT YOU COULD YOU PLS SEND ME UR EMAIL ADDRESS OR A TEL# I PROMISE I WONT BE A PEST JUST NEED HELP OR ANYONE FOR THAT MATTER PLS I'D LIKE TO SPEAK TO YOU ON THIS 350 BUILD-UP

 

JAV240Z

("AN I-6 DOES NOT A SUPERCAR MAKE") eek2.gif

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Guest Anonymous

Gotta disagree with grumpyvette there a little. I feel that a 355 engine would be great in the Z. The 383 is very nice in our Corvette's, but they are carrying around an extra 1000 lbs or so. With the Z, they extra torque is nice, but a lighter hit will preserve the chassis and still have tremendous performance.

 

What I would do is this.

 

.030 TRW forged pistons in the 9.5 to 10(Love em)

Eagle forged rods

Scat crank

ARP bolts everywhere

Comp Cams Xtreme energy 268 cam Split duration

TFS Aluminum Heads with the better springs

1 5/8 Coated headers

Roller rockers 1.5

Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold

Holly 750 Double pumper

Big K&N filter

 

This engine should yield in the neighborhood of 400hp or so with around 425ftlbs of torque, yet still rev up quickly and hit a 6500 rpm redline with the ARP rod bolts.

 

You could throttle back the cam to a 262 for around 380hp but smoother idle.

 

While I don't disagree completely with grumpyvette's build, I would not run a Victor JR. on a street engine. The Canfield heads are great, but are in the $1600 range. The TFS are very nice and only around $950. You could build the above engine around $3000 or so.

 

If you need more than this, you need to work on the chassis first.

 

Mike

'73 240Z

'72 Corvette

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Shock96

those canfield heads are only $800 bare or $1150 ready to run, look here,

 

http://www.canfieldheads.com/sbc_2600.html

 

 

TFS-30400003 Chevrolet: 327-350-400, 64cc, 1.46 in. diameter dual valve springs, 23 degree cylinder heads ... $1,045.00 (the heads with the better springs)

 

and while you make a valid point that a 350 will make less power "With the Z, they extra torque is nice, but a lighter hit will preserve the chassis and still have tremendous performance" the cost of your build and mine will not be far apart and I think you will agree as to which potential could push the car faster :D:D and if you don,t want all the power available you could just try not pushing the gas pedal down not quite as fast or far.(yes I am aware Im power crazy, but hey getting to 175mph is a big grin even at my age)(the wife frowns on me finding a mistress so I get my grins where I can

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Guest Anonymous

For a daily driver to kill Honduh's I'd have to agree with the above, thats WAY overkill. A stock 350 will slap the crap out of most honduh's as is.

 

Don't believe all the Honduh import crap hype, most of them are struggling (street cars) to get into the 13's with most of them being far more likely to be 15 sec cars (or even slower). Yawn...

 

A warm 350hp 350 should anihilate a good majority of the imports and if it doesn't the 100 shot of nitrous added will.

 

Keep in mind there is always the possibility of running into the much fabled 600hp Supra's, but just smile and laugh knowing you got beat by a car costing 10 times more than yours (and even then I'd bet it'll be close considering how much the Supra's weight). :D

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Guest Anonymous

I like the mild Edelbrock Perfomancee Packages. I bought an old 1973 Monte Carlo that had the performer package for my project. But I also scrounged a free 350 short block at a garage sale with spun rod bearing(?) and a renter abandoned a running old 82 van with a 4 barrel carb 350 SBC and 700R4 transmission.The van's 350 SBC has a leaking rear main seal.I have been scrounging all kinds of performance parts for these engines at garage sales and swap meets in hopes to put together a couple good mild motors. Just scored a 750 Edelbrock and custonm valve covers for $25.00. The fellow also had a 400 cubic inch SBC and crank that was allowed to draw moisture next to a clothes dryer. I am going to slip back and make a $10.00 offer on it. That 400 may be the ticket for a spun rod bearing on a short block that has some respectable 4 barrell carb cylinder heads. I do not know what I am going to end up with but the hunt is more exciting than the capture. I am spending less money than others spend on cigarettes,alcohol, dope or a round of golf.If you got time you can find anything.

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I've heard that the Edelbrock numbers on those "kits" are a bit "inflated". But the heads and manifolds are o.k. (do the Performer RPM, not the Performer) but the cam is not the best grind for the purposes either in that kit.

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Guest kc6wfs

Hi Jav,

I agree with everyone else.

JTR manual, for a daily driver get a stock V8, or the block you have and get some nice Vortec heads.

I have a stock 230HP(?) Vortec crate motor and a 700R4 auto trans and run in the high 13's.

 

I'm going to get it faster... But thats another thread.

 

Good luck and you have found the right place for your Z.

 

Dave

cheers.gif

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  • 4 years later...
Guest coppergmc

Find you a 350 Vortec engine out of a 96 to 98 truck. I have purchased several of these engines that were supposedly cores. The thin metric rings don't seem to wear the cylinder bores at all. I've seen engines with 170,000 miles that didn't need anything but a hone and new rings. It's actually kind of unreal. You can purchase these cores for about 300 bucks. Have everything checked out at the machine shop and have the spring pockets cut for better springs. Prepare to spend a little money on parts but realize that the entire roller set up can be cleaned and reused if in good condition. Check out Popular Hot Rodding's build in the October issue.

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The fact that a block is out of a vette means nothing. Example, I don't have a vette block and I run 9's. Stock production 350 "379" 4 bolt later model block went 10's. Either the 350 or the 383 would be fine. I like the 400 based combinations, unshrouds the valves better and makes more power, but they aren't laying around anymore like they used to be.

 

Like they said; It's heads and cam, heads and cam, heads and cam, heads and cam.

 

Oh, and did I mention heads and cam?...........

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