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differential upgrade?


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

i have a 280z v8 with a r-200 and a quaiffe and starting to brake u-joints . i`m turning mid 11`s with a 60' time of 1.6`s. i may in the future install an ati procharger. my next step is to consider if the r-200 and z-31 c/v shafts will handle the added hp. i may need to try to upgrade. ross says to go with z31 c/v`s. but i am wondering if it would be better to go with a different diff. one that has more strength and cheaper gears,without costing an arm and a leg to purchase and install. i am seeing the r-230 and the 300z being installed. if any one can help , please let me know.

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Guest Anonymous

i`m running 225 50r 16 . at the track i usually do not spin and the car squatts pretty deep and the front end gets pretty high up in the air.oh the tire brand is nitto

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That's probably the major reason you're going through U-joints. Big squat, unless it is built into the suspension, is hard on the U-joints. If you could (using tie-wraps around the shock rod) measure the squat on launch, then you could build into the suspension settings this amount of travel so that on launch, the half-shafts would be in an ideal configuration (straight with little angularity) at max squat. High torque loads on U-joints require them to be well aligned. I even raised my differential up by about 1" to help in this situation. Of course, you will have to find a happy medium because as you travel down the track, the rear is going to slowly return to a normal static setting, which would create angles on the U-joints again (if they are straight when the car squats).

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I can only hope to pull 60’ times like that. I have 225/45R17 BFG Drag G-force radials. And should have 400HP at the wheels.

 

How do you launch? I find it interesting how some people can pull such low 60’ with not that big of a tire. And others have a hard time pulling low 2 sec 60’ with much bigger meats.

 

I would love to be able to drop the hammer on my car and pull off a 1.6 with the tires I have on now. I was looking in to a set of 26x10.5 ET Streets for the track.

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Guest Anonymous

well my car was lowered, of coures, with stiffer springs. the car is very close to a 50/50 weight ratio. now on the street it still spins fairly easy. before i put on the nitto`s i could stomp it in second and break`em loose.oh , how i launch. put back wheels in water start to spin for a few seconds ,let my foot off the brake and floor it. roll up to the line and stage. do not do dry hopps or second burnouts. that is the only way my camaro would hook up.

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Guest Anonymous

responding to terry. i read your web site . man you are gifted! that car of yours is a true piece of art. getting back to the subject. my car empty ,shafts look parralel to the floor. i am thinking about raising the diff like you did and also it has been recomended to put stiffer springs on the rear.my two concerns with the r-200 is #1 strenght,#2 is the cost of new gears. i thought that if i sold or traded my dif with the quaiffe in it , add a few hundred , hopefuly under a thousand, get another rear end with a lsd and c/v`s that are much stronger. i did not start breaking u-joints untill i cut off my flow masters and installed a magnaflow. others have ran this diff (r-200) without breaking c/v`s or halve shafts. money will dictate the avenue i go.

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Guest Anonymous

i was told to do that to keep my rear end from sqwatting to much. but i was wondering the same thing. i would not have to worry about breaking anything because i will probably be spinning. not transfering weight to the rear enough.

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Guest Anonymous

i do not really want to get rid of the quaiffe. it launches good and i have yet to break loose the rear tires on corners. but i really have not tried very hard as to i have not been at a suitable location in case they do brake loose.

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Well, you could (besides raise the differential) also raise the rear of the car a bit too, or a combination of the two. I'm sure that this will add even more weight transfer to the rear on launch. It's obvious your hole shots are great, so changing anything may not be of benefit, but for the drags, raising the car may help (launch and longevity)

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The R200 is plenty strong I remember someone doing high 9's without a problem. When he got to mid-high 9's he started to twist the halfshafts and not the ujoints. His car was set up with no squat in the rear and didn't start breaking things until running the times I can only dream about.

 

Don

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I believe you are referring to 1FastZ (or something like that). Lets be careful here and not give anyone the impression that the R-200 is fine for a 9-sec car. He openly admitted he did not launch the car hard and if I recall his 60' times were in the 1.60s. I recall him saying he rolled the car a couple of feet then got into it, akin to slipping the clutch slightly on a manual.

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