Jump to content
HybridZ

Need help, exhaust stud broken off in head.


Guest Confederado120

Recommended Posts

Guest Confederado120

73 240Z

Yeah I know this is gonna be a pain. Looking for suggestions on removal of broken stud. Stud also has a broken extractor in it. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Walt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had this happen last week to me. I wanted to drive my Z so I'm still futzing with the L24 that's in there. It had an exaust leak, because a exaust stud broke off flush with the header flange. So I used my EZout kit for the second time ever and went to work. Drilled it out with no problem and stuck the extractor in... started to apply some muscle.... started to turn!!! then SNAP SON OF A #$$#@@!#@$. Well a 20 minute job turned into a 4 hour job. I took off the intake manifold and then took off the header so I could get a vice grips on the exaust stud. Turned it out just fine. I also welded up some cracks in the welds of my header while I was at it. Moral of the story? EZout's are the LAST resort. The first time I used one of those suckers was on my buddies doghouse on his GN. Snapped it right off. Boy were we pissed! I'm tossing away my EZouts, they are more trouble than they are worth, they just seem to brittle to be of any good use.

 

Well, where did the stud snap off? Could you possibly take the header off and grab a hold of it with a vice grips? You are going to have A LOT of trouble drilling that thing out again with an extractor stuck inside of it.

 

!M!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

Yep thats a pain i had the same problem but it was a head bolt got lots of great advice with this club. If you can grab ahold of some of it with vice grips thats good heat it up and it will expand then cool with WD that will help out alot repeat if needed.

If you cant grab a hold then your going to have to drill get your self a carbide tip drill bit the good ones not to pricey they have them at your local hardware store when getting this bit also get yourself some cuting lube apply while drilling take it slow those bits go through anything good luck it worked for me. :twisted:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Confederado120

The stud is broken flush with the flange. Manifolds are already off, changing from flattop SU's to roundtop's. Thanks for the responses, will try the carbide bit.

 

Walt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

be careful if you don't use a carbide bit in a drill press or a laythe you'll destroy the tip just like that. My suggestion is that you take the head off and put it under a drill press and go slow, very slow maybe under 2000rpm the don't like heat or speed. speed=heat which unsolders the tip and bam no more carbide. It will take you proboly 4-6 hours if not more and DON'T FORGET THE CUTTING OIL. I used desile and oil mix worked great. Be safe and I wish you the best of luck, let us know when you get it drilled out.

 

 

tbs

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Tempe_Z

If you do this in a drill press I'd say drop it down to about 500 RPM or so, slower is almost always better and just give it nice slow easy pressure. As stated above cutting fluid is a must for this, You'll eat alot of bits otherwise.

 

Only way you could possibly do this on the car would be to arrange some sort of fixture you could bolt to the head in other spots as you don't want to drill it out and have your drill anything but straight. Downside is that'd probably be as much trouble as just pulling the head anyway. Stinky to have to go to this much work for a damn stud though isn't it. If you end up going that far anyway, do yourself a favor and drill out all the holes for the studs and put helicoils in them. It helps in the future with stuff getting stuck since they're stainless vs aluminum and you'll get less corrosion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used to drill them out and sometimes you get lucky and things go OK. Sometimes the drill gets a little off center or cocked and things go from bad to worse. Now I take a small drill and put a hole down the center of the broken off stud or bolt. Then I go in with a small dremel bit and grind it out from the inside out. Takes longer than just trying to drill it out but I think it is a little safer as it is more tolerable to having the drilled hole off center.

 

--john b.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

gramercyjam is right on the money you need to put a dent in the center i used the engraver bit in my dremel set worked perfect you could also use a punch if you can penatrate the ezout

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest 260zman

Dude, if you haven't already got that broken off stud out, do this (if you have an arc welder handy, mig welders not high tensile enough).

Use a high tensile electrode (2.6mm be fine) and weld a heavy duty flat washer over the broken stud. the washer should be big enough to weld a decnt nut on top of. Then weld the afore mentioned nut onto the washer ( across at least two sides so that a spanner can still fit onto nut). Let weld cool. Using penetrating spray (wd40) or similar gently work the stud back and forth with spanner. Hopefully you'll be sussed. Good luck. You'll have an absolute mongrel of a time trying to drill an ez out..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

260Zman is right on! I broke TWO EZouts when i was trying to take off the exhaust manifold on my turbo motor. I then tried to drill it out with no luck.

 

Then i broke out my welder....put the gogles on...and in thirty minutes both studs were out! just be carefull to not weld on the head itself....it makes some nasty little holes in it if ya do.

 

laterZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Confederado120

I dont have a welder, so I couldn't try that route. Carbon bit got laughed at by extractor. Solution, mobile Tap removal service. Cheap, no. $125

Amazing how an air powered high speed angle drill w/a diamond bit works wonders. Thanks everybody for their suggestions. Great bunch here.

 

Walt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe if you could slot the bolt, slip a flat head screw driver and undo it that way. If its still tough, slot it, and use a wrench piece attatched to the bit for extra torque. Not sure how you'd slot it though. Metal chisel or maybe a dremel cutting/grinding tool smaller in diameter than the hole. Might work, but I've never tried it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...