Guest Confederado120 Posted April 9, 2003 Share Posted April 9, 2003 73 240Z Yeah I know this is gonna be a pain. Looking for suggestions on removal of broken stud. Stud also has a broken extractor in it. Any help would be appreciated. Walt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zline Posted April 9, 2003 Share Posted April 9, 2003 if you know exactly where it is, get a dowel with a little magnet tied to the end and go fishing. good luck! daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted April 9, 2003 Share Posted April 9, 2003 I had this happen last week to me. I wanted to drive my Z so I'm still futzing with the L24 that's in there. It had an exaust leak, because a exaust stud broke off flush with the header flange. So I used my EZout kit for the second time ever and went to work. Drilled it out with no problem and stuck the extractor in... started to apply some muscle.... started to turn!!! then SNAP SON OF A #$$#@@!#@$. Well a 20 minute job turned into a 4 hour job. I took off the intake manifold and then took off the header so I could get a vice grips on the exaust stud. Turned it out just fine. I also welded up some cracks in the welds of my header while I was at it. Moral of the story? EZout's are the LAST resort. The first time I used one of those suckers was on my buddies doghouse on his GN. Snapped it right off. Boy were we pissed! I'm tossing away my EZouts, they are more trouble than they are worth, they just seem to brittle to be of any good use. Well, where did the stud snap off? Could you possibly take the header off and grab a hold of it with a vice grips? You are going to have A LOT of trouble drilling that thing out again with an extractor stuck inside of it. !M! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 9, 2003 Share Posted April 9, 2003 Yep thats a pain i had the same problem but it was a head bolt got lots of great advice with this club. If you can grab ahold of some of it with vice grips thats good heat it up and it will expand then cool with WD that will help out alot repeat if needed. If you cant grab a hold then your going to have to drill get your self a carbide tip drill bit the good ones not to pricey they have them at your local hardware store when getting this bit also get yourself some cuting lube apply while drilling take it slow those bits go through anything good luck it worked for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbobluestreak Posted April 9, 2003 Share Posted April 9, 2003 I had one of those to in my turbo right where the downpipe bolts up at. Talk about a job hours of drilling with a carbide bit and I poped what was left of the EZout out. I'm convenced that just drilling out some dumb bolt is faster then the EZout. tbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Confederado120 Posted April 9, 2003 Share Posted April 9, 2003 The stud is broken flush with the flange. Manifolds are already off, changing from flattop SU's to roundtop's. Thanks for the responses, will try the carbide bit. Walt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 9, 2003 Share Posted April 9, 2003 dont forget the cutting agent or it will burn up and it should be drilled no more then 2000 rpm's good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dp351zcar Posted April 10, 2003 Share Posted April 10, 2003 Well you might want to take the header off and pull the motor. It will be a good time to add the two extra cylinders to your car. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbobluestreak Posted April 10, 2003 Share Posted April 10, 2003 be careful if you don't use a carbide bit in a drill press or a laythe you'll destroy the tip just like that. My suggestion is that you take the head off and put it under a drill press and go slow, very slow maybe under 2000rpm the don't like heat or speed. speed=heat which unsolders the tip and bam no more carbide. It will take you proboly 4-6 hours if not more and DON'T FORGET THE CUTTING OIL. I used desile and oil mix worked great. Be safe and I wish you the best of luck, let us know when you get it drilled out. tbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tempe_Z Posted April 11, 2003 Share Posted April 11, 2003 If you do this in a drill press I'd say drop it down to about 500 RPM or so, slower is almost always better and just give it nice slow easy pressure. As stated above cutting fluid is a must for this, You'll eat alot of bits otherwise. Only way you could possibly do this on the car would be to arrange some sort of fixture you could bolt to the head in other spots as you don't want to drill it out and have your drill anything but straight. Downside is that'd probably be as much trouble as just pulling the head anyway. Stinky to have to go to this much work for a damn stud though isn't it. If you end up going that far anyway, do yourself a favor and drill out all the holes for the studs and put helicoils in them. It helps in the future with stuff getting stuck since they're stainless vs aluminum and you'll get less corrosion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramercyjam Posted April 11, 2003 Share Posted April 11, 2003 I used to drill them out and sometimes you get lucky and things go OK. Sometimes the drill gets a little off center or cocked and things go from bad to worse. Now I take a small drill and put a hole down the center of the broken off stud or bolt. Then I go in with a small dremel bit and grind it out from the inside out. Takes longer than just trying to drill it out but I think it is a little safer as it is more tolerable to having the drilled hole off center. --john b. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 11, 2003 Share Posted April 11, 2003 gramercyjam is right on the money you need to put a dent in the center i used the engraver bit in my dremel set worked perfect you could also use a punch if you can penatrate the ezout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 260zman Posted April 15, 2003 Share Posted April 15, 2003 Dude, if you haven't already got that broken off stud out, do this (if you have an arc welder handy, mig welders not high tensile enough). Use a high tensile electrode (2.6mm be fine) and weld a heavy duty flat washer over the broken stud. the washer should be big enough to weld a decnt nut on top of. Then weld the afore mentioned nut onto the washer ( across at least two sides so that a spanner can still fit onto nut). Let weld cool. Using penetrating spray (wd40) or similar gently work the stud back and forth with spanner. Hopefully you'll be sussed. Good luck. You'll have an absolute mongrel of a time trying to drill an ez out.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted April 15, 2003 Share Posted April 15, 2003 260zman You da man! Never heard of that solution but it sounds trick! I did throw out my EZouts years ago. I have never had any luck with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparky Posted April 15, 2003 Share Posted April 15, 2003 260Zman is right on! I broke TWO EZouts when i was trying to take off the exhaust manifold on my turbo motor. I then tried to drill it out with no luck. Then i broke out my welder....put the gogles on...and in thirty minutes both studs were out! just be carefull to not weld on the head itself....it makes some nasty little holes in it if ya do. laterZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Confederado120 Posted April 23, 2003 Share Posted April 23, 2003 I dont have a welder, so I couldn't try that route. Carbon bit got laughed at by extractor. Solution, mobile Tap removal service. Cheap, no. $125 Amazing how an air powered high speed angle drill w/a diamond bit works wonders. Thanks everybody for their suggestions. Great bunch here. Walt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moridin Posted April 23, 2003 Share Posted April 23, 2003 Maybe if you could slot the bolt, slip a flat head screw driver and undo it that way. If its still tough, slot it, and use a wrench piece attatched to the bit for extra torque. Not sure how you'd slot it though. Metal chisel or maybe a dremel cutting/grinding tool smaller in diameter than the hole. Might work, but I've never tried it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 24, 2003 Share Posted April 24, 2003 So did you get the bolt out with the high speed drill and diamond bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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