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HybridZ

Interesting read! Anyone tried these??


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Guest Anonymous

A friend put them in a 440 Chrysler and I was impressed when they opened up under throttle.They worked good for him around town in a Ford pick-up swap

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Rhoads Lifters tend to sound like solid lifters at idle , they are slightly harder to adjust the valve preload acurately with and are a pain in the A-- in some cases to use (they drive EFI SENSORS NUTS) but they do lower your effective duration about 3-5 degress at idle and can smooth your engines idle very slightly, short answer , just use the correct cam for your application, and normal hydrolic lifters , and stop trying to use GIMMICKS TO CURE PROBLEMS THAT PICKING THE CORRECT PARTS IN THE FIRST PLACE WILL PREVENT! if you need to use Rhoads Lifters to drop your duration to a usefull level at idle by maybe 4 degs your admitting the cam you picked is too large.

 

Boost Low-End Torque Up To 25%(total marketing B.S.unless something is seriously wrong with your engine already)

 

3 more inches of vacuum? (true in some isolated cases)

 

Rhoads Variable Duration Lifters are also anti-pumpups and can add as much as 500 more usable rpm to the top-end (only if the lifters they are replaceing pump up and cause early valve float and the valve spring pressures are totally wrong for the rpms your running but in any case your not suppose to get a hydrolic lifter engine to those rpm levels anyway)

 

You can actually hear Rhoads Lifters work. They have a "solid lifter" type sound all their own ( even they admit they sound like solid lifters)

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they are not going to hurt anything but they ARE NOT A MIRACLE CURE FOR ANYTHING EITHER. if you are not running EFI and don,t mind the ticking why not just run solid lifters and gain at least an additional 1000rpm over even rhoads lifters claimed rpm levels, plus solid lifter cams tend to idle well and produce good low rpm torque in the lower duration cams anyway, but if your really concerned get a roller cam and get everything in one cam,

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Hey grumpy, you beat me to the punch. I hadnt read your first response before I posted last. Do you have any reading that will let me in on the pros and cons of going with a solid lifter over a hydraulic. I was thinking hydraulic because I will mainly be driving this on the street and will not be turing it much over 6K.

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Let me add my two cents worth. I'm new here but the grumps right. Always live by the old saying "bigger is not necessarily better". The old saying that brings more heated discussions is "there's no replacement for displacement".

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Solid lifter cams make GREAT power. Just look at the Z car motors. But the GM solid lifter doesn't hold lash as well as the Nissan one and you'll have to at least check it every 8-10k miles. The Comp 282s looks like a great cam, but I agree with Grumpyvette 100% on the Rhodes lifters. It is a crutch. In a car that weighs 2500# with lots of gear like a Z, low speed drivability should be a non-issue unless your carb is whacked, regardless of the cam, within reason of course.

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Okay guys, I dont think you understand. No one said that I was going to put some huge cam in my car and use the Rhoads lifters as a "crutch". If you are putting any cam in your car to help at all with your top end you are normally loosing a little something down low. Some of you guys act like I trying to get away with something here. I just read about them and thought the looked pretty trick. Since I have searched some other sites and not many people like them.

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