Dan Juday Posted April 29, 2003 Share Posted April 29, 2003 Hi guys. I need a quick education. Please forgive me. I have not been reading the LT1 related posts much and I just don't have the time to do a search and read all results. I need to know about the differences/advantages/disadvantages of the various iterations of the LT1 (only the modern FI motor) mostly related to ease of swap. This motor will likely not be modified from stock. So mostly I want to know what problems I can avoid by choosing the proper year/model. Also, this motor would have a T56 behind it. Thanks, Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mas28O Posted April 29, 2003 Share Posted April 29, 2003 Dan look for an obd1 94-95 engine the 95 has the better opti spark I went with the Vette engine on mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted April 29, 2003 Share Posted April 29, 2003 Yup if I was going to do it all over again I would have got a 95 LT1 because of the new Optispark and because of the easier programming of PCM. No chip so all you have to do is program the computer with LT1 Edit or Tunercat. Also with the 95 engine it is still OBD1 so there is no need for O2 sims like on the 96-97 engines. I vote 95! Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest blue73z Posted April 29, 2003 Share Posted April 29, 2003 Check out http://www.hpsalvage.com and click on the LT1/LS1 link. They have a general description of the differences between the years. Also check out the Specifications page; has dimensions and some good info about transmissions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted April 29, 2003 Author Share Posted April 29, 2003 Thanks guys. Is VATS an issue with OBD1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oltmann Posted April 29, 2003 Share Posted April 29, 2003 As a 96 owner, I'll say that the 96/97 isn't that much harder to do. It used to be impossible to get the OBDII ECU reprogrammed, but software has become available to do this recently. You don't have to mess around with O2 sensor simulators anymore. Just budget $75 more for programming and your set. pcmforless.com is a decent place to get it programmed, but if you look on the camaro boards you can find people who will do it cheaper. I decided to simply swap to OBDI, which cost me less than $200 and the guy programmed the ECU for me. I still agree that 95 is the easiest year, but I wouldn't (and didn't) turn my nose up at a low-mile 96/97. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Your Car is Slow Posted April 29, 2003 Share Posted April 29, 2003 The LT1 from a vette is the most desireable (due to 4bolt mains) Followed by the LT1 in Fbodys (firebirds/camaros/etc) due to aluminum heads but only 2bolt mains. Last would be the Bbody LT1...found in buick roadmasters...or caprice 9c1 cars..or the Impala SS. Same block as the Fbody Lt1..but with Iron heads instead. OBDI or II is up to you...but OBDII was designed with emissions in mind...not performance tuning and yes..vats existed in OBDI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted April 29, 2003 Share Posted April 29, 2003 #1 choice 1995, #2 1994, both OBD I, EEPROM - my own car is a 94 but converted to a 95 Opti. VATS is an issue on every car, there are 18 known resistor values to use inline to fool them, and its a programmable switch in the computer. However low miles may be easier to find on OBD II, if you go that route just dont take the PCM, if its an option try to snag an OBD I PCM and figure how to convert them over. All I'm aware of is, knock sensor needs a resistor in the knock module to work (last person with a Jag/LT1 told me this didn't work), or buy the knock sensor, probably $50 or so. Wont need the rear O2 stuff, OBD I doesn't have post cat O2s. There may be other wiring differences, enough people have done the swap that I really would say go do CamaroZ28 and hit the programming forum, someone will know, or Google may pull it up, maybe http://www.projecttransam.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted May 3, 2003 Author Share Posted May 3, 2003 Thanks guys. I did the resistor trick with my tpi motor so that's no problem, just get the key that went to the donor. How about tranny swaps. If I find a '95 that came with an auto and I want to put a T56 behind it can the ecu be reprogrammed to ignor the park/neutral switch? I have this problem with my tpi. I have left the the P/N wire open/ungrounded, but when the motor is cold, before going into closed loop, the idle hunts. I'm not certain it's because of the P/N wire, just suspicious. It isn't that bad, maybe 200-400 rpm, and it doesn't last long, just annoying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted May 3, 2003 Share Posted May 3, 2003 You can flash the computer with either a stick or auto tune, finding a spare computer is easy and relatively cheap though. We do still have at least one inhibitor with the stick though, and thats the clutch pedal, which must be depressed wether the car is in gear or not, to start the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted May 3, 2003 Share Posted May 3, 2003 You can flash the computer with either a stick or auto tune, finding a spare computer is easy and relatively cheap though. We do still have at least one inhibitor with the stick though, and thats the clutch pedal, which must be depressed wether the car is in gear or not, to start the car. Huh? I fired mine without a pedal assembly even installed. Before I even edited my PCM. Maybe it's the way I wired it all in?! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted May 3, 2003 Share Posted May 3, 2003 Could be, when this sensor goes bad the car wont start for us. That one I dont know though, hmm! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted May 3, 2003 Author Share Posted May 3, 2003 You can flash the computer with either a stick or auto tune, How hard is it to do this? What type of equipment is needed? Or can I take it to someone to do this for me, and how much $? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted May 3, 2003 Share Posted May 3, 2003 Yeah I started my LT1/T56 with out haveing the clutch pedal depressed? My computer was edited already though so maybe that was edited out? Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted May 3, 2003 Share Posted May 3, 2003 You can flash the computer with either a stick or auto tune' date=' [/quote'] How hard is it to do this? What type of equipment is needed? Or can I take it to someone to do this for me, and how much $? As long as you have a 94/95 I'll do it for free or costs of shipping, so long as I have my car that is You need Tunercat and a cable, but for your first flash you need to bypass the anti-theft circuit if you were to do it on your own. Tunercat $69 $EE Def file for Tunercat $20 Cable $65 if you buy fully assembled ( http://www.wotelectronics.com http://www.tunercat.com ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted May 3, 2003 Share Posted May 3, 2003 Yeah I started my LT1/T56 with out haveing the clutch pedal depressed? My computer was edited already though so maybe that was edited out? I have no idea, but from what Tim says, something must be missing from the car to make it not care about this, because like when the anti theft stuff dies, the car will not start with this sensor being no good. I am working on my car today so I will take a look how it hooks up (physically, not in depth), I assume its like the brake light switch on a car, just being a "button" pressed or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted May 3, 2003 Share Posted May 3, 2003 Dan J. When/if you go LT1, go the extra and get TunerCat. It is well worth it and the guys at TunerCat have been very helpful and responsive. I love the idea of laying in bed at night (or sitting on the throne), and tuning the car!! It is cool as hell. For the money, even if Mudge or other offer to help you out for free, it is nice to have the convenience. and not having to ship things back and forward. The software is very easy to use. I was very apprehensive about jacking around with the PCM, but it is pretty much fool proof (as proven by my ability to use it!!). Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted May 3, 2003 Share Posted May 3, 2003 Yep, when I found out we could log and tune our own computers (just like you see on the uber cars on TV), wow that is just awesome. Troubleshoot at home with Freescan, log and tune with Freescan/Excel + Tunercat - neat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted May 3, 2003 Author Share Posted May 3, 2003 As long as you have a 94/95 I'll do it for free or costs of shipping' date=' so long as I have my car that is [/quote'] Thanks Mudge. I'll take you up on that. Actualy, I'm looking for a motor & tranny to swap into a friends Z. He asked me if I had it to do all over again what motor would I use. Thus, the LT1/T56. I've found a '96 combo and a '95 motor with an auto tranny. The yard will sell me the '95 motor and the '96 T56. I just want to know if this will work without any issues. This friend wants a trouble free finished product. So what do you think guys? Should I tell the yard it's a go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted May 4, 2003 Share Posted May 4, 2003 Sounds good to me, if the block is really a 95 then it will already have the OBD I knock sensor, so there should be no problems... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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