Corzette Posted May 22, 2003 Share Posted May 22, 2003 My drive shaft is too long 20.5 inches center to center 700R4 Stealth yoke. My question is how far should I pull the front yoke out when installing. Should there be about a 1 inch pullout distance figured into the driveshaft? I want to make sure when I have this thing shortened I do it right. I go to the states on leave next Tuesday and plan on taking it with me to fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heavy Z Posted May 22, 2003 Share Posted May 22, 2003 Careful travelling with the driveshaft - it sorta looks like a stinger and could be mistaken as such. An inch sounds about right but lets see what some other members think... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted May 22, 2003 Share Posted May 22, 2003 "The ideal driveshaft length will place the yoke about 3/4" from bottoming out in the transmission." JTR 7th edition page 6-2. My driveline guy, who is now deceased, made the drive shafts for the original Scarb kits. He said 1". I think as long as you have a good bite on the output shaft of the tranny and have at least 3/4" for the motor to move rearward on a hard launch you should be fine. JTR says that they have seen the motor move rearward as much as 3/8" on drag race starts. I hope it's no more than 3/8" because thats all the clearance my dizzy has to the firewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cowboy6280 Posted May 23, 2003 Share Posted May 23, 2003 I didnt have one done for a Z but I did have a driveshaft made for my pickup. When I had mine done the guy who did it told me have at least 3/4". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Slvrhase Posted May 23, 2003 Share Posted May 23, 2003 I have built a few street rods, all of them we would pull the yoke out 3/4" from bottoming in the tranny to take the measurements. Always worked fine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted May 23, 2003 Share Posted May 23, 2003 Not as much is required on an IRS setup since the arc of the suspension travel isn't trying to pull and push like it is on a solid axle. To some extent, depends on the yoke you use. 3/4" is a good number to use IME. The fore and aft movement of the motor and trans as well as the diff on its mounts needs to be accounted for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted May 23, 2003 Share Posted May 23, 2003 Just an aside about IRS cars. My driveshaft came out of a Corvette and the splined part of the yoke was a good inch shorter than the one out of the Firebird the motor came from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted May 23, 2003 Author Share Posted May 23, 2003 Thanks! That info is a life saver. I am having mine shortened 1 1/4 inches for a total length of 19 1/4 center to center for $40 and balanced in Texas. They wanted $200 here in Okinawa...what a joke.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted May 23, 2003 Share Posted May 23, 2003 Wait!!! Stop!!! Hold everything!!! My driveshaft is too short....I live in Texas....maybe we can trade. I can check it tonight and let you know how long it is (the driveshaft you perverts). Let me know if interested. Jeff Hickl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted May 23, 2003 Share Posted May 23, 2003 I think it's more foolproof to put the yoke all the way into the trans, measure the center to center distance between the u-joint holes on the tranny yoke and differential adapter, and then subtract 3/4" or so. It's easy to bump the yoke while making the measurement, so why not put it all the way in and subtract 3/4" later? BTW, Corzette is in Japan, so shipping would kill you . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted May 23, 2003 Share Posted May 23, 2003 I know he's in Japan now, but his post said he was coming stateside tuesday and was having it shortened in Texas....Thats were I live! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted May 23, 2003 Share Posted May 23, 2003 Duh. My bad - reading too fast! Sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted May 23, 2003 Share Posted May 23, 2003 Thats ok, your car is awesome, that allows you 2 mistakes per year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted May 24, 2003 Author Share Posted May 24, 2003 Hey guys thanks for the post! I am going to San Angelo on Wed. A shop there will shorten and balance for $40. I just hope they don't confiscate my shaft from me at the airport thinking its a pipe bomb or something... Im going to Lisbon NH and Amissville VA via Dulles for two days each as well. Anyone in those areas let me know...maybe we could meet and chat etc... I will have 5 days in Angelo and 2 each in the other areas. Thanks for all the help. I will be a Hybrid Master one of these days! I have some engine install pics coming soon. After I mounted my engine in the set back position for the first time it blew me away. Seems really tight and different than the Scarab. I guess Ill just have to get used to it! Another thing is before the restore it was only running 13.7's at best with about 300 HP crank. This build is supposed to be 450 or so. I havent driven anything with power for about a year and a half so Im sure it will take some getting used to again. Can't wait! Pics will be up soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted May 24, 2003 Author Share Posted May 24, 2003 If anyone is interested, here is what I have to date: 73 240Z/357 SBC. AFR190 Heads, AFR Intake match ported, Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller retrofit 520/510 Cam, Retrofit Hydraulic Lifters and Rockers 1.5, Eagle full floating H Beams, KB106 Hyper flat tops, Scat Crank 3.48, Ceramic Block Huggers, Holley HP750DP, MSD Billet Distributor, MSD 6A Ignition, Blaster Coil, Edelbrock Aluminum WaterPump, Hi Flow Oil Pump, Griffin Aluminum Radiator, Underdrive Aluminum Pulley Set, Morosso 8.5 Red Wires, Fuel Cell 16 Gallon, Holley Blue Pump, 3 Way Return Regulator, AN Fittings through out, Crane Brake Booster Canister with gauge, 700R4 with 2800 stall lock-up, Toyota Front Brake Upgrade, Tokiko Illuminas 5 way adjustables, Dual 2 1/2 with x-pipe into DynoMax mufflers rear, Cowl Induction, Front Mount Tranny Cooler, Drag Lite Racing Rims, Mickey T ETs rear. Not to mention a total restore with floor pans and paint. Must have rollbar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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