just got a 240z turbo and want to put roughly $500 in mods

[Guest Anonymous]

I original sold this car to a friend because I obtained a v8z. He then put in a bone stock 1983 turbo engine no mods what so ever. Since my v8z needs a ton of work besides the motor b-cuz the motor was rebuilt but everything else is in need of major attention the trany, elec., suspension,brakes and the car is kinda beat. So I'm buying the turbo z back and want to know what mods do you get the best bang for your buck for example, starion intercooler,new downpipe, new turbo, or manual boost controler and if u use the manual boost controller what is the most boost the car can handle stock. any help would be appreciated.

thanks,

Lamar in so cal

[bumble zee]

i wouldnt use a starion ic... there a bit restrictive if you want to start running high hp.

[fl327]

id say go with the starion ic if you are only going to spend 500 in mods

because for 500 youre not going to put out more than it can handle on a stock turbo setup. i would go with the IC, 2" pipe and couplers, and a mbc

and a relay the fuel pump to the alternator, and bleed the wastegate with a T fitting, and leter rip.

[SleeperZ]

I think you can do better than the Starion IC. The plumbing will be about half the cost, and for $200-250 you can get a used intercooler like an NPR or a MKIV Supra, both of which are far superior. I agree, an intercooler will get you the biggest bang for the buck at this point.

[Lockjaw]

I like a 3 inch exhaust and intercooler. The 3 inch mandrel is the only way to go, and it make a big difference.

 

You need to run a nice heavy gauge wire to the fuel pump, and run it off a relay.

 

Skip the starion IC, they suck. They have like insane amounts of pressure drop.

[Guest JAMIE T]

I'm with LJ. 3" exhuast. I'm alittle skepticle about the IC at this point though. I think many more mods should come first. The IC isn't going to help much until the boost levels get up there. I dyno'd a 240sx with a SR20DET and a huge Blitz front mount IC and tube kit. It made stock rear wheel HP, it was running stock boost. He didn't understand that the IC was just extra since his SR20DET came with an IC anyway.

 

I say 3" exhaust, BOV, and MBC. Add an IC if any money is left.

[Guest gprix1]

I agree with Jamie T on this one. A bigger IC will only be needed as boost is turned up. Fact is, once you turn up the boost on any car you pretty much have to do all of it if you want to do it right. The other thing to consider is your injector size. Once you get to 85+% duty cycle on your injectors you will need to upgrade your fuel system and that will happen as soon as you run enough boost to take advantage of these hi-po parts.

 

I am currently in a delima with my wifes Mitubishi GSX AWD Turbo. It has a slightly larger turbo (T-28/28), ported head, ported O2 housing, 3" mandrel bent, turbo-back exhaust, HI-Flow fuel pump (hard wired), and 1st Gen BOV. With the boost set to only 14 psi the thing is maxing out the stock 450 injectors (which works out to approx' 280 HP).

 

I cannot turn the boost up any more and utilize the potential of the car or there will be a shortage of fuel, the car will ping/detonate, timing will get pulled and it will run slower. In order to make more horsepower it will cost a lot.

• $400 for the good 660 injectors

• $500 for a '95 ECU + $350 for re-programming

• $500 larger FMIC or SMIC and piping

That's $1,400 to make more horsepower but there is another problem. Since AWD has so much traction wheels don't spin and the weakest link becomes the clutch. As it is right now the fairly new stock clutch cannot hold the power of a hard take-off and shifting. So if we make more power we have to upgrade the clutch and might as well lighten the flywheel while we're resurfacing.

• $700 for Heavy duty clutch and lightened flywheel

• $300 to install it (I'm not doing that again)
   
  So to make more power I have to spend $2,400.
  This one is my wifes car and as it is she doesn't drive it hard very often so 280 HP is probably all it will ever make even though the turbo can efficiently support 350 HP on pump gas.

[Lockjaw]

You could raise the fuel pressure, thats what I have had to do with my set-up. I run a 4 bar map, which takes my 420cc injectors to 550's.

 

Are you a NABR member?

[SleeperZ]

I'm with LJ. 3" exhuast. I'm alittle skepticle about the IC at this point though. I think many more mods should come first. The IC isn't going to help much until the boost levels get up there. I dyno'd a 240sx with a SR20DET and a huge Blitz front mount IC and tube kit. It made stock rear wheel HP' date=' it was running stock boost. He didn't understand that the IC was just extra since his SR20DET came with an IC anyway.

 

I say 3" exhaust, BOV, and MBC. Add an IC if any money is left.[/quote']

 

I still think an IC makes the biggest difference. An MBC is CHEAP!!! I was running 9 psi boost on stock stuff, and went to an IC, adjusted to the same 9 psi at the manifold and picked up 0.5 sec ET, and nearly 5 mph traps. The difference was unbelieveable, on stock stuff! A BOV is rice, adds no performance, and is not necessary on boost levels in the single digits. With the IC you can run boost of 12 psi on the stock turbo and fuel system - biggest bang for the buck.

[Drax240z]

I would think that a BOV will help performance, providing you are shifting that is.

 

Simple physics... the faster the turbo spins, the more power you have. If you slow it down excessively every time you shift, the turbo isn't letting you produce as much power as it would if it wasn't slowing down as much.

 

BOV is a simple mod, 1st generation eclipse BOV probably will cost about $50. Manual boost controller, another $20 for parts. You can probably run 9 or 10 psi on good quality gasoline without an IC. Then you have $400 ish to sort out whether you want to do exhaust or intercooler first. If your current exhaust is smaller than 2.5" diameter, do that first. Otherwise, I'd go for the IC.

[Lockjaw]

I got you a free MBC, just push the WG actuator back a little, and viola, more boost.

 

Just remember you got to get rid of that dumb relief valve to run more boost.

[Guest Anonymous]

thanks guys for all the info. I went to turbo xs website and they had a mbc that was supposed to make the car boost faster I think it was $129.00 will that make a difference. Thanks lockjaw I will e-mail you to hook up with the free mbc I appreciate that. also I might have a small spearco intercooler because when i had the z I was planning on doing this swap So I have some old parts what do you guys think about maybe extrude honing the exhaust manifold and adding jeff's new downpipe.

[Guest JAMIE T]

BOV rice?

 

Maybe if you go for the super quadruple, whistle added, megaphone enhanced ones!

 

The BOV has many benificail traits. Spooling between shifts, no reversion, no damaged turbos. What's Rice about that? OK, so use it as bypass valve if the noise offends you.

 

It may seem rice, but I want an open WG dump, and a noticable BOV on my 240ZT. All would-be competition should know what is about to wax there a$$. Fire out of the exhaust on decel, fire from the WG dump, I'm cool with that.

 

LOOK OUT!!! Muscle Car guy turned Ricer!

 

Yeah, I've had Big Blocks, small blocks, Mustangs(10's in 1/4), Camaros(12's in 1/4), 442's(depended on who was around) etc...

 

My Zcar is the most fun car I've ever owned.

 

As long as my car blows the doors off the competition, I'm happy.

[SleeperZ]

BOV rice?

 

Maybe if you go for the super quadruple' date=' whistle added, megaphone enhanced ones!

 

The BOV has many benificail traits. Spooling between shifts, no reversion, no damaged turbos. What's Rice about that? OK, so use it as bypass valve if the noise offends you.

 

It may seem rice, but I want an open WG dump, and a noticable BOV on my 240ZT. All would-be competition should know what is about to wax there a$$. Fire out of the exhaust on decel, fire from the WG dump, I'm cool with that.

 

LOOK OUT!!! Muscle Car guy turned Ricer!

 

Yeah, I've had Big Blocks, small blocks, Mustangs(10's in 1/4), Camaros(12's in 1/4), 442's(depended on who was around) etc...

 

My Zcar is the most fun car I've ever owned.

 

As long as my car blows the doors off the competition, I'm happy.[/quote']

 

I can't argue with you - a compressor bypass is useful, especially for street driving. I have one. A BOV is rice, it vents to the atmosphere, is loud, and offers no performance advantage. I don't buy the "keeps the turbo spooled" argument - it will prevent surging, but your intake pressure is LOST! There is no proof it reduces spool up between shifts, and if you are going for all-out balls-to-the-wall 1/4 mile ET, don't lift the throttle on shifts!

 

You can tell where I'm coming from by my screen name - I don't like noise, or advertising what is about to kick your a$$.

[Lockjaw]

It makes a diff on my car to vent it back in front of the turbo. Venting to the atmosphere created a rich stumble that sucked. Slowed me down too.

[1FASTKINGCAB]

• $400 for the good 660 injectors

• $500 for a '95 ECU + $350 for re-programming

• $500 larger FMIC or SMIC and piping

• $700 for Heavy duty clutch and lightened flywheel

• $300 to install it (I'm not doing that again)

 

$500 for what '95 ECU? are you talking Eclipse -or- Nissan? Either way I can beat that price. more like $100-$300 any car any year. W/ a waranty. I work in a junk yard and can for sure beat $500 thats outragous.