Question concerning choice of conversion parts......MSA

[Guest loco280zx]

I have a 83 280zx 2+2 N/A. I just ordered the mounts, kick down, speedo, and hood latch bracket from MSA for my 350sbc. I know its kinda late to ask this , but does MSA make good products for chevy conversions or did I just screw my self over? I haven't ordered every thing, I still need a few more components like drive shaft, adapter senders for my gauges, and tranny crossmember/ mount. I hope all in all I made a some what decent decision since I'm not exactly good at welding/ metal fabricating. Let me know whats up guys and what should I do next? Thanks in advance for any info.

[Guest thepenguin99]

I wouldnt order my driveshaft from them. Then again I dont order anything I cant get elsewhere from MSA. The reasoning behind not ordering your driveshaft through them is you dont know the exact length you need till everything is positioned in the car. I would buy the JTR flange and then have a good shop shorten/balance a chevy driveshaft to suite your needs.

[Georgia Flash]

I love Motorsport Auto! I have spent over $4 grand with them. I also like Victoria British stuff but they do not offer the V-8 stuff. I have their motor mount kit for my 280 and love it!

[danc]

thepenguin99

I used the MSA motor mounts and trans bracket for my 83 SBC/700R4. I'm happy with the result. The driveline angle is correct, although the template for modifying the transmisson bracket was dog-shit! I passed that along to the MSA folks ( in a little more politcally correct way), and am not sure if they have fixed it or not. You don't need the hood latch bracket for the ZX. You will need to remove the passenger side "tang" from the factory hoot latch bracket if you have a HEI distributor. The motor mounts put the engine a little higher than some of the other ZX guys have worked it out with other mountings, and you will have to modify the hood if you are using a medium or high rise intake manifold. Mine is done in metal a la 69 Camaro Z28. It's not obtruse, and allows for good air flow thru the engine bay. I returned the "universal" kick down braccket to them because the quality was marginal, and used a Lokar. I used their speedo cable, and it works fine. You can order/buy the driveshart adaptor locally from any decent parts place (Neapco 2-2-899-1) for around $25. as I remember. Use the search feature in this forum for unique ZX conversion questions, and it will serve you very well. Also, order the Jags That Run Datsun conversion manual and keep it in the bathroom for a couple of months until you are ready to say you are ready. Plan on spending a lot more money than you project, and also plan a suspension upgrade as part of the conversion. Mine is not a daily driver, and was "down" for 10 months. Do mark the wiring harness before you remove it. I used a lable maker, sandwich baggies, and duct tape while I hosed-down/detailed the engine bay. Good luck

Dan

[80LS1T]

thepenguin99

The motor mounts put the engine a little higher than some of the other ZX guys have worked it out with other mountings' date=' and you will have to modify the hood if you are using a medium or high rise intake manifold.

 

Plan on spending a lot more money than you project, and also plan a suspension upgrade as part of the conversion. Mine is not a daily driver, and was "down" for 10 months. Do mark the wiring harness before you remove it. I used a lable maker, sandwich baggies, and duct tape while I hosed-down/detailed the engine bay. Good luck

Dan[/quote']

 

 

I also agree that the engine sits a little too high. I used the MSA mounts for my LT1 conversion and if it wasnt an LT1 then i would have hood clearance problems. I think they should mention that in the catalog but they dont! As for the tranny mount.....I didnt use it because I used a T56 so it wouldnt work since I had to cut out the old tranny mounts inside the tunnel. They are very well made though in my opinion.

 

And yes you will spent 2-3 times as much as you "figured out in your head" I know I did and I still am!

 

 

Guy

[Guest greimann]

I think the best approch is a careful one in this instance. Get enough to get going and solve the problems one at a time. You can do a lot, if not all, of the installation without kit parts. Come back with specifics on the gauges and othe technical problems as you get to them.

 

And send back that hood latch.

[Guest loco280zx]

I will send back the hood latch. I have an edelbrock dual plane intake which has no high rise or airgap at all. As far as parts are concerned, I have a 4-bolt main 350sbc "so I was told"....I haven't dropped the pan yet to verify......is there a way to tell with out doing this? I also have shorty style headers, I think I have a th350 tranny, Tranny cooler, Brand new 3rd gen aluminum camaro radiator, 750 cfm Edelbrock carb, and my NOS kit. I don't know how to tell If I have a th350 tranny. I'm not even sure about 6" or 9" tail. My friend is the one that is helping me set her up. He says I should put a B&M hole shot 2300rpm stall convertor on it, as well as shift kit. I also have a holley 95gph elec. fuel pump. I would appreciate any input on the parts that I need to finish my parts list as well as what to do or get next. Thanks every one.

[Guest greimann]

Get your resources in order. Summit and Jegs catalogs. Datsun wiring diagram, chevrolet wiring diagram. Get a set of gaskets for the motor. There is no way to verify your 4 bolt unless you drop the pan. If that is important to you. Unless you are going to send the motor back from where it came, then forget about it, and just believe them.

 

Start removing the old motor and transmission and trash the fuel injection wiring harness. Put the block and transmission in the car and work up from there. The left side header is going to be a problem. Hood clearance is also very tight. A very deep drop base air cleaner usually works, but if your nitrous is a plate system, that might eat up valuable clearance.

[72zcar]

I think I have a th350 tranny

 

Don't do it!! I went with the th-350 because thats what came with the donor car but on the freeway its no good. You will be hating it. As soon as I can I am going with 700r4 or world class t-5.

[Guest loco280zx]

If I go with a t-5 tranny, How can I make sure that it is a t-5? The same guy that is helping me says he has one for $200, or should I just keep my auto? The main purpose of this car is for 1/4 mile drag racing and saturday nights of course. This will not be trailered to the track. I will be in import events and hopefully super chevy night. What are the posibilities of a T56 bolted up to an carberated 350sbc? I have to admit I'm a little confused and need guidance. I don't wanna spend un-nesscary money or time. This is my first race car build-up and I am a rookie as far as mechanics are concerned. I can pull motors and drop trannies rwd/ fwd , but this modification is a new experience all together. Thanks every one for their help and guidance.

[Guest greimann]

If this is a race car then stick with the TH350, in my humble opinion. There are lots of torque convertors and shift kits. Even rebuilt transmissions are a dime a dozen. A T5 will blow up and a T56 is heavy and has the wrong gear ratios for racing. If you really want a stick, go with a Muncie or Saginaw. They are 4 speeds that can handle the abuse of racing.

 

If you are going to drive to long distance events, then an overdrive is pretty much required. Go with a 700R4.

 

BTW, a T5 looks like this:

[Guest loco280zx]

Thank you very much. You are very knowlegeable and I trust your advice. Thanks I will consider the other auto tranny as well as what I have now. Besides I only spent $50 on my th350 so if I opt for the 700R4 it wont be a major loss. Thanks again for your advice.

[Guest zfan]

I too would go with the 700r4 if your going to drag race and drive it to the races. If you had said you would trailer it there and race then I would say stick with the 350 tranny.

 

I drive mine to the strip and back home and have a built 700r4 with a 2300-2500 stall. It's a very streetable low 12 maybe high 11 second car.

Can't wait to get my drag radials on so I can try for 11's.

 

Mike