Guest bluex_v1 Posted July 23, 2003 Share Posted July 23, 2003 I've read that 280z stub axels are stronger than 240z stubs, but is that dependent on the car year, or the diff that was installed? Do all r180s have the weaker stub axles and all r200s have the stronger? I have an early 260z, with a r180 of course, so does anyone know which I have or how I can tell? I just picked up an r200 this weekend that was just laying on the ground by the car, but it already had its stub axels pulled (It seems jt240z had already visited that yard and pulled em for his CV upgrade...and I found that out later that same day at the GA hybridz meet this weekend! ) Also, how does one go about removing these stub axels, with what tools? I probably won't be putting more than 400 ftlbs to them, so do I even need to worry? I may head down to one straight from work today, so any swift answers would be appreciated! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted July 23, 2003 Share Posted July 23, 2003 I don't know if you've read this, but it might help: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6212/diffswap/diffswap.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bluex_v1 Posted July 23, 2003 Share Posted July 23, 2003 I actually had not read that, but I didn't see any reference to what I'm looking for. Perhaps I don't have the terminology correct...I'm talking about the unit that the half shaft bolts to on the wheel side. I thought they were called stub axels, but I've seen the parts that stick into the diff itself called stub axels too, so maybe they aren't or I needed to be more specific. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted July 23, 2003 Share Posted July 23, 2003 Typically the stub axle is the part the wheel bolts to. 280Zs have the stronger stubs, 240 and 280zx have the smaller (and weaker) stubs. Nothing at all to do with the size of the diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 23, 2003 Share Posted July 23, 2003 There are two types of stub axles used in the 240/260/280Z: 25 spline and 27 spline which refers to the number of splines on the inside where the companion flange mates. The 25 spline stub axles are used through the 260Z model and the 27 spline are used in the 280Z. The 27 spline stub axles are stonger due to a larger diameter at the companion flange end and a better fusion weld radius where the wheel flange is attached to the axle itself. Overall metallurgy is the same. If you get a set of 27 spline sub axles you also need the corresponding companion flanges. Reuse the spacer that came with the hub you are mounting the stub axles in. Don't use the spacer from the hub where you removed the stub axles. Use new stub axle nuts and seals and replace the bearings and races while you have everything apart. Use only Nissan OEM or Timken bearings. Don't use any bearing made in China. Lube them with Redline or Mobil 1 synthetic grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bluex_v1 Posted July 23, 2003 Share Posted July 23, 2003 Thanks John, that pretty much answers my questions and makes me realize that I need to just wait until I can study my shop manual before heading to the yard so I know what everything you said actually looks like! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 23, 2003 Share Posted July 23, 2003 You also asked what the best way to remove them is. Lots of people use a slide hammer, I think this is the hard way. The easy way is with an air hammer. If you don't have access to air tools I think this is a job for a mechanic, because you'll need to cut the peened area on the nuts off with a cutoff wheel and its gonna be way harder to get the new nuts back on tight enough. The nuts on the inside are peened (hammered against the flat section of the axle so they can't back off), so you need to cut away the peened area with a cut off wheel. Some mechanics peen only one side, some peen both. Make sure you cut it all off before turning the nut or you will waste the threads on the stub axle. Once this is done take your air hammer with the pointy bit, and stick that bit right in the dimple in the center of the axle shaft. The air hammer doesn't beat the crap out of the bearings like I think the slide hammer does. It will actually just vibrate the shaft a lot (wow that could be taken the wrong way) . Then you just put some pressure behind it and the stub shafts will slide right out. Make sure you have a friend standing on the other side to catch them. Have fun... Jon Mortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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