QWKDTSN Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 Hey guys, I went to install a 3/16 plastic coated cable as JTR specifies on my friend's L28ET 240Z with an R200. The book, of course, is very little help. All it says is "wrap 3 times around the mount and the crossmember" and the picture is from about 10 feet away so there is no detail. From what I can tell, it's supposed to go UNDER the diff and ABOVE the diff mount? However, there is almost zero space in there. I don't have to loosen the diff and raise it, install the cable, and tighten the diff back down on top of the cable, do I? "$3 and 5 minutes" my ass. As I'm about to do this same mod on my own car this Sunday, after replacing the busted diff mount with a new one, I need to know what to do. His car is driveable but sort of my "guinea pig". I tried searching and, surprisingly, there is almost NO discussion on this board about what seems to be a common mod! help! Pictures, if you can, will help too. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BayAreaZT Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 Wrap it aroung the mount so the rubber dosen't shear off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QWKDTSN Posted August 1, 2003 Author Share Posted August 1, 2003 Err.. thanks.. anyone else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 I did a search for "diff strap" in the drivetrain forum, and I got 100 threads that mentioned it. I KNOW there are pictures in some of those. Am I pointing out the obvious? "do a search" Edit: Added the following links: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8677&highlight=diff+strap http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21219&highlight=diff+strap http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=22198&highlight=diff+strap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QWKDTSN Posted August 1, 2003 Author Share Posted August 1, 2003 I tried searching for "JTR" and "cable" in the Drivetrain forum and got next to nothing. I'll check out those threads. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QWKDTSN Posted August 1, 2003 Author Share Posted August 1, 2003 After looking, I haven't been able to find any relevant information for what I'm trying to do.. All of those point to different ways to hold it down besides the JTR cable method. Agreed, they may be better, but I simply don't have the time right now to drop my whole rear end (or my friend's) to do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David K Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 wrap 3 times around the diff? That sounds real ghetto cheapo to me, IMHO. Also IMHO, i think there are much better ways going about securing the diff now a days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedNeckZ Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 I have done this before. You have to loosen up the bolts (two of them, holds the diff. to the mount) and raise the diff. enough to let the cable go between the mount and diff.. Do not loosen the mount from the frame mount (single bolt). Wrap it three times and c-clamp down. Then don't forget to resecure the bolts back down. Cable should be wraped around the mount and the frame mount. A good cheap fix for the mount. Better then useing the solid mount that I have now. It has been breaking rear u-joints on the drive shaft. Good Luck with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 I thought the cable went over the top of the diff and under the cross member. I guess between the diff and mount would be better, if there is room. Even JTR says it is a "ghetto" fix, but what the hell. It is cheap and it seems to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 It is kinda of ghetto rigging and it did not work for me. I purchased the cable and end locks and crimper from Homeboy Depot. Well it worked for a short while but then after a couple of hard launches it had stretched loose. The diff then tore the crap out of my ebrake bracket/mount. I and a good friend of mine designed and installed our own mount. I just took a 3/8 plate of aluminum and mounted it to the underside of diff cross member brace and ran a 3/8 inch u bolt with rubber sheath over diff and bolted it down to the aluminum plate. I have beat the car often and 4 trips to Ennis Tx. 1/4 mile track and no breakage! Thanks to my friend Galen for the machine work!!! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BayAreaZT Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 It may be a rig but it works great. Never had a problem when I used it on my V8Z. Just make sure it's wraped tight and the clamp is tight. It dosen't really matter if you wrap it over or under the diff as long as it prevents the rubber from shearing. Under the diff should be easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 thats my favorite trick in the book, besides the MBC 8) if thats ghetto, why do you we have a rubberband over the diff as a snubber, i think thats ghetto. better solution is that L bracket brace Dave Linfoot makes that bolts to the diff mount and goes under the x member, with a slight gap so it lets the rubber insolate a little bit, but prevents the shear.] I have one, but havent used it yet, its flash rustin pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted August 3, 2003 Share Posted August 3, 2003 Corzette and Scottie GNZ have the right ideas--very effective and cheap too. Scottie's is a little better IMO because it is made from one piece of metal. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtiez Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 JTR gives you some inexpensive solutions to common problems that existed a few years ago until new products came on the market such as Wilwood Brake Conversions and inexpensive wide aluminum wheels. As far as the differential mount is concerned, get a solid aluminum mount or take the mount and weld it up solid. The vibration JTR talks about is really not all that bad and the monkey motion is gone. I am surprised someone has not brought out a polyurethane mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 JTR gives you some inexpensive solutions to common problems that existed a few years ago until new products came on the market such as Wilwood Brake Conversions and inexpensive wide aluminum wheels. As far as the differential mount is concerned, get a solid aluminum mount or take the mount and weld it up solid. The vibration JTR talks about is really not all that bad and the monkey motion is gone. I am surprised someone has not brought out a polyurethane mount. Huh? The answer is the R/T mount that a large amount of people are now running which incorporates the top mounted, poly mount. There have been imporovements to this 5 year old thread! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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