Cold Feet on LS1

[Guest jdllaugh]

Okay, I bought a '99 LS1/4l60E off EBay for $3.2k and now I'm having cold feet about trying to install that puppy in my '72 240z. Biggest concern is getting the wiring/computer stuff sorted out. I know how to use a multi-meter and have basic computer skills, but I'm no electrical engineer.

 

I'm looking with longing at a nice, simple 350 crate motor and carb setup -- your basic JTR install. I suspect the price would be about the same to attain similar horsepower, but much less complex a task.

 

What do you guys think? Should I stick the LS1 back on Ebay and start over? Or suck it up and figure it out?

 

(P.S. Right now the car is in a million pieces and I'll cut out the rusty floors as soon as I get that tar crap scrapped off. What a PITA!)

[auxilary]

is the wiring the only thing holding you back? I wouldn't give up the LS1 for that, I think you should get some manuals, and sort it out and get it done. It's attainable, or ask people who have done the LS1 swap on the board, that's what they're here for

[pparaska]

I hate to say it but one of the things I think going against the simple carbed old-school SBC into a Z is that it's been done so often.

 

The LS1 is a great motor. Once you get the thing running there's a bunch of power to be found.

 

I'd stick it out with the LS1 and check out jeromio's posts/page for details of how to mount it, etc. Lone Star Z did it also, in a month.

[tdab]

James,

 

NO WAY would I part with the LS1. If I could afford it and my fab skills were better, that would be the swap for me. The LS1 has as much potential as anything out there. Also look at the weight to HP ratio on the LS1.

 

You got the right motor, now get to work

 

Tom

[Phantom]

I'm starting an LS-1/T-56 conversion on my '77 280Z the last week in June. The engine is out of a '98 Camero and has 3,600 miles on it. I expect it will take 8-12 weeks. The first thing will be installing the 3.7:1 LSD and confirming that the half-shaft universals are in excellent condition. Then it will be motor & transmission pull time. After new motor & transmission mounts are installed and the engine bay is cleaned up it goes to the body shop for engine bay paint out and some minor body work. Once the engine bay is all pretty it gets the engine, tranny, wiring harness, air conditoning, etc.

I'm working with John's Cars in Dallas on this. We have a general agreement at this point - I work with him on the transplant and he develops a manual for the LS-1 conversion. I know the reservations many board members have on his current LT-1 manual and the "forward positioning" of his engine mounts for the LT-1 conversion. As he succinctly put it, however: "This conversion will have as much in common with an LT-1 as a Ford V8". I'll periodically post on the board to document the progress on the conversion. If you can be patient, there may be a manual available this fall on the conversion. Just think - all aluminum V-8 with gobs of torque and HP and tame as a pussycat. I've been toying with this for four years and now it's going to happen.

Phantom

[Guest Anonymous]

I'd stick it out too, its not really a ton lighter (maybe 50 lbs), but way more modern.

 

Don't go the carb'ed route if you have the time to put in the EFI. I guarantee you that you'd love the performance, but sooner or later you're going to want to get into EFI. Its just better, more effecient and the engines will last much longer due to better fuel control and less dilution of the oil with gas (which really in itself is a great reason for EFI).

 

And the best reason for keeping it? ITS IN YOUR GARAGE, NOW SUCK IT UP, AND GET OUT THERE AND BUST SOME WRENCHES!!!!! Seriously though, you'll be glad you went thru the extra work, carb'ed smallblocks IMHO are pretty raw, idle inconsistently and have dips in its torque curve at some throttle settings, squash all that and just put that LS1 in. Just use a factory harness and it should'nt be to tough (well the wiring part, I'd be less worried about that than designing an engine mount because I know it mounts way different than the old SBC. (don't let that stop you though, should be straightforward.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

[strotter]

I'm in the middle of an EFI swap, as well. I, too, believe electricity is evil (as is anything that is invisible but can still bite you). It was very intimidating at first, with miles of wires and relays and sensors and whatnot. However, half the point of doing these swaps is learning a thing or two, and believe me, I've done that. I have no fear of fuel injection anymore, and have actually developed an admiration for how the systems are set up, how much control the computer has over the motor, and the significant improvement in driveability and a bit of mileage. Actually it's been fun, something I hadn't expected.

 

You might want to talk to the Painless wiring people about purchasing an entire engine compartment wiring harness in one bang. They include only what's needed to run the engine, and delete what is not. Makes for a much simpler job. And do, do, do get the manual for the car the motor came form (from Helm Publications) and study it. I put mine in the bathroom next to the pot, so it got significant attention every day. Sometimes twice!

[Guest Anonymous]

Accessories in the way? I thought you could get a smaller crank pulley, like that off of a Corvette? Doesn't that fix it?

Maybe that only helps LT1's.. dunno.

oh, and I HATE you 8-12week people.

 

Seriously though, go get the HELM MANUAL for all the wiring and stuff. Maybe go check out the GMECM site.

 

Maybe check out this place that sells a wiring harness (and removes the antitheft system from the ECM?)

 

I wish I had an LS1 but I'm not the type to break new ground on such things. Maybe by the time you're ready, the mounts and setback plates will be there for you to buy.

 

- Rob

 

Also check out http://www.lt1edit.com/ if you want to program your own ECM via a serial port on your PC or laptop.

[Guest Anonymous]

JamesL, KEEP THE LS1!!!!

You wont regret it! LS1 Wiring Help!

[Guest kc6wfs]

I'll trade ya my 1999 Vortec carb motor and pay shipping!!!!!!

 

Seriously.. keep the LS1 you can get guys here that will help ya with the LS1.

If worse came to worse you could get the PainLess wiring for ~$600.00 and I think it's almost 1 wire to hook it up.

 

Keep the LS1.

 

Dave

[jeromio]

I could be talking out my hoohaw but I'd say the LS1 is alot lighter than a 350. It's certainly lighter than the L28 I pulled out.

 

As to the issues with the swap, the wiring is not the issue. There's plenty of aftermarket options if you have the bucks (Painless or Speartech). There's a full on shop manual available on CDROM. There's lots of aftermarket parts for, for instance, simulating 2ndary O2s, MAFT, VAT, VSS, etc.

 

Me, I'm just going all stock FBody stuff with a BDM and ignition key for the VATS and a FBody fuel system.

 

Now, that's not to even begin to say this is an easy swap. It's not. It is oh so not. There ain't no JTR. And the accessories conflict with the Datsun mount towers. So you either have to ditch those, or fab or buy accessory mounts.

 

That said, the LS1 is really a great motor with tremendous aftermarket support and a really amazing EFI ECU system with an available laptop programmability option. LoneStar1 bolted his in place, and with no mods (as far as I know) except for a nice free flowing K&N and exhaust, he's dyno'd at 300RWHP. That is not sucky.

[Guest jdllaugh]

Wow... Thanks for all the encouragement!

Every now and then I start second guessing myself and need to refocus.

 

I have enjoyed dismantling my 240z. But when I took out the dash and had to disconnect all those wires, I started getting really nervous about my ability to put it all back together. And that's not even including the LS1 engine harness, fuel injection system, VATS, VSS, O2 sensors, blah, blah, blah...

 

Bolt off, bolt on, I understand. Green wire "A" to pin connector "Z" in sub-harness "Y" leaves me feeling a little lost...

 

But hey, as a couple of you mentioned, part of the fun is the learning experience. It's a big puzzle and challenge that will take at least a year to figure out.

 

If I just wanted a hot car to drive, I could have bought a Corvette. (Well, maybe a USED Corvette)

[Guest Anonymous]

James,

 

The dash will go back just fine, I know exactly what you mean, I was having anxiety attacks when I took mine out thinking it would never go back right. Theres basically three harness ends, right, center and at the ignition the plugs are all pretty much color coded or use varying different plugs. You'll do fine on the install, take your time, do everything as clean as possible (something I didn't do for lack of time and I'm still sorting out all the uglyness). Good luck with it, it's going to make a great Rod.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

[zgeezer]

Hey, don't sweat the FI. The street rodders have reduced this exercise to little more than connect the red wire to the red terminal. The wires even come with their destination printed every 8 inches or so on the wire. Crank up your browser/search engine and look for Ron Francis' wire works (wire_works.com); Painless wiring; or Howell Engineering. All three will take care of you. I like Ron Francis because I wired my 350TPI with his Telovek kit in three evenings and one saturday morning: complete with stock computer. Fired on the first crank. I would suggest you stay as close to stock as possible. Keep all smog related sensors and use an electronic speedometer. Also, use search on this web site, other members have done this swap before.

[zero]

yea come on dude, you have to do this so that i can follow in your footsteps next summer. I plan on doing one soon and i want to see a documented ls1 t56 swap. so do it for the rest of us, and yourself.