PhaTTy Posted August 17, 2003 Share Posted August 17, 2003 Alrighty.. where to begin. What I want to do: I am planning on drag racing my '83 280zx when I am all done with it. I want to be able to run at least a high 13 second 1/4 mile and a decent 0-60 time also. I am interested in dropping a SBC (350-383) in it, with headers. I do not know if carb or injection would be better for a good balance of mileage/power. I am in Arizona and where I live all I need to have on the car emissions-wise is a catylitic converter and possibly an EGR (they don't usually check that). I want it to run on 91-92 octane pump gas and get decent gas mileage (15 mpg might be a far fetched wish for this) What I need help with: What engine, tranny, drivetrain, suspension, brakes, etc... basically everything I would want to do to the car to make it into a fast car that is streetable (with 91-92 octane pump gas). I am thinking of throwing the idea at a local performance engine builder, but I would love to do this with my father, who is an experienced mechanic. My budget: I would hope to get away with this for 5 grand, but anywhere between 5-10 grand could be done. A ton of questions, and do realize I am serious about doing the conversion, but just have a TON of questions/concerns. Time to wait for the flaming replies Aaron Tucson, AZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmyntti Posted August 17, 2003 Share Posted August 17, 2003 Your goals are very easy with a Z. I am going with an LT1 and hope to dip into the twelves and get better than 20mpg. If you want to go cheap the carb engine would be cheaper and could easily reach your goals. If you want fuel injection you have several options. The late model Vortec truck engines can be had cheap and can reach your goal. Another option is a TPI from an 80's Vette, Camaro, or Firebird and these are usually pretty cheap. You should be able to bolt in the TPI and go 13's no problem. Then theres the LT1 from a 90's Vette, Camaro, or Firebird. Theses are a little more expensive but they still are not very expensive and will do 13's easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest greimann Posted August 17, 2003 Share Posted August 17, 2003 Go fuel injection of some kind. An LT1 is the first choice. A carbureted motor under the hood of a ZX in Arizona is going to be a real problem when heat builds up and boils the fuel in the bowls. For racing, you will want an automatic trans like a 700R4. The other requests for info should be spread out in the appropriate forums. Too much to write in one post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhaTTy Posted August 17, 2003 Author Share Posted August 17, 2003 I do not really want an excessive amount of electronics on the engine, but I suppose if I go injection that will be the case.. I am sort of bending on the 80's vette or camaro engine and doing some work on them. Anybody ever had any luck finding an 80's vette in a salvage yard or an engine from one cheap? Also why the 700R4 tranny for racing.. I was thinking stick, but an auto does make more sense so you don't have time to think about shifting. What would be the comparison of say a 700R4 vs a T5/T56 tranny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest greimann Posted August 17, 2003 Share Posted August 17, 2003 Drag racing requires consistency and launch control. An automatic will help achieve both of those requirements. It will also help dampen shock loads that tend to tear up drive train components. If you want a fun to drive street car then go with a stick, but if you are really building a drag racer, go automatic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhaTTy Posted August 17, 2003 Author Share Posted August 17, 2003 Ok.. back to the engine.. I looked around on ebay for 350/383 engines, and there are some decent ones out there. I am in the Tucson/Phoenix AZ area so there are a lot of engine builders around here. Should I get a complete engine used, or just have one built to my specs or build it myself? I don't know what kind of HP I would need to achieve a 13 second 1/4 mile, so anybody with experience, feel free to speak up. I am leaning towards a late 70's, early 80's engine if I buy used due to the emissions crap I don't want to deal with, but if having one built is the best option, please speak up with your opinions Thx for the help so far.. amazing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest greimann Posted August 17, 2003 Share Posted August 17, 2003 Keep in mind that all chevy 350's from '68 to '84 are pretty much the same. Only the induction systems changed. It makes little difference what year you buy because rebuild components will make it new again. With new pistons, cam and heads, you will be at about 350 hp and deep into the 13's for sure. Whether you build it or buy it is up to you, your skills and your bank account. If you go LT1, pick up a '93+ F-body used, and if it is good shape, it probably won't need a rebuild and it will put you into the high 13's stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted August 17, 2003 Share Posted August 17, 2003 If you go LT1, pick up a '93+ F-body used, and if it is good shape, it probably won't need a rebuild and it will put you into the high 13's stock. 1995 F Body would be the most ideal. 1993 was speed density based, 1994 (which I have) has a MAF and different fuel rails, but the optispark is unvented. 1995 is still OBDI, but has the vented optispark. 1996 went to OBDII, which is more difficult/expensive to edit the PCM. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhaTTy Posted August 17, 2003 Author Share Posted August 17, 2003 Hrmm.. Did I mention I hate computers in cars.. Anyways.. I would not mind putting a newer engine with all the electronics and computer crap on, but I would be totally lost trying to program the stuff. Thats sort of why I was leaning on an older engine or a custom built engine, that way I have some power over what electronics the car really needs and what is just excess EPA-owning crap. So I guess my main question is, how hard is it to hook up all the electronics/computers on the newer engines, and what is the benefit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 I have the motor for you, it's just out here in NorCal. '88 350tpi Z28 with four speed auto, 92K miles, $1500. It's a very clean motor that was owned and well cared for by a woman. One owner. Her son wrecked the car. I'd like to buy it myself but I can't justify it. It's at a yard in Stockton. If you do a tpi swap you don't want the Corvette motor, more difficult wiring. The price may seem a little high to some people but this is there swapper special, comes with anything and everything mechanical you want off the car. These guys know what they're doing when they pull it too, no cut wires on the harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhaTTy Posted August 18, 2003 Author Share Posted August 18, 2003 Don't really have the funds at the moment.. I was sort of getting some ideas for what to shoot for in the next 3 months or so. Thx for the info though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Now I dont know much about emissions because I am not in an emissions zone, but if you do a motor swap doesnt the new engine have to be no older than what the car is? Or is that just CA? So if yours is an 83' 280ZX then you couldnt swap in an 82' SBC 350? Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest benjlv Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 do yourself a favor and get a LT1 out of a F body and read up on the EFI stuff. Its really not all that complicated. You just need to know how it works and how to use a multimeter. Not scary things at all. You will be able to have more power under the curve with EFI and make more peak HP...better gas mileage and so on. read up on it and then make your decision. A LT1 setup has a lot more potential to be driven and enjoyed day to day than a carbed 350. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danc Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 PhaTTy: Lots of good advice from these guys. I'm running an 83, 430 H.P. SBC in the low-mid 12s on street tires "rolling out", so 13s is not a big problem at all with even a moderately built SBC. I did end-up spending more on my 700R4 in initial price and upgrades than it would have cost to buy a performance version up-front. You also need to factor in suspension modifications because you will have a rear end squat and bottoming out problem with stock suspension. The fuel injection advice is good, but I am running a Holley Street Avenger 770 CFM and like it a lot. I very easily passed my emissions test with a carbuerated GM Crate motor. Also suggest you use the search feature of this forum to collect all the lessons learned that will be invaluable. Don't remember if anyone suggested buying the Conversion Manual from Jags-That -Run, but in my opinion it's a must read. Lots of the info pertains to the "Z" as opposed to the "ZX". but it is still a great sourch of info and inspiration. You project costs depend greatly on your skills, and what you have to "contract-out". You will more than likely spend more than you expect, but the result will be a transformation of you ZX that will undoubtedly put a toothy smile on your face everytime you drive it. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 I agree that the FI setup is not very difficult at all. I had originally planned to run a built 350 with Holley DP. Then I found the LT1/T56 combo for cheap. The wiring is very easy. I had zero FI experience before this. Tuning is easy with TunerCat software and a laptop. Brings new meaning to 'armchair tuning'! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhaTTy Posted August 31, 2003 Author Share Posted August 31, 2003 OK.. fun fun fun.. I have done some researching and was wondering what I could expect from the following setup: I can get a LS1 out of a Police Interceptor at a local salvage yard.. (may even buy the whole car, who knows).. I am thinking of going with a LS1 or LT1 (which would you prefer?).. But I also want to put a StealthRam MPFI on the car, and was wondering what engine(s) the Holley (or any other Stealthram MPFI) would fit? I am in Arizona, so I have received many suggestions to use injection rather than a carb setup. I am going to be drag racing this car from time to time down at the local track and I want something that I can drive every day and still get the power when I need it. Any suggestions/comments? And anybody have a price range that it would cost to do this conversion to a '83 280zx? Thank ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danj Posted August 31, 2003 Share Posted August 31, 2003 I am finally in the final stages of conversion of my 83ZX. I had the engine built in the Phoenix area at 5-Star Engines. They do a quality job and can work with you to help you meet your performance and budget goals. I decided to go with the Edelbrock Pro Flo EFI set-up for my Vortec heads. This was expensive but since I have an aggressive cam I needed to make it more streetable/driveable. Running headers on the 83 model is a custom job. There are no bolt-ons that I know of. You can find a lot of prior threads about that on this site. If you want the address or phone number for 5-Star let me know. Dan C. and Greimann have commented on this topic and they have been very helpful in my conversion decisions, as has Ross C. and John Welch. Hope I didn't leave anyone out. Dan H. Tulsa, OK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest greimann Posted August 31, 2003 Share Posted August 31, 2003 OK.. fun fun fun.. I have done some researching and was wondering what I could expect from the following setup: ...... Thank ya What you can expect from a stock F-body LS1 is a reliable powertrain that will turn low 13's all day long. If you go this route, definitely get the whole car and take out what you need to get the motor running and sell / scrap the rest. Power parts are harder to find and more expensive than standard 350's or LT1's. An LT1 can be pumped up to 400+ HP with an LT4 conversion kit and still be very streetable and a pleasure to drive. Still expect very low 13's because putting the power to the ground in a drag strip launch is going to be very difficult on a stock "one legged" diff. It will absolutely be a killer in a "street start" where you are already be rolling when mash it. The Holley stealth ram fits the early 350 heads (prior to LT1) and will stick up through the hood by several inches. If you want a hood scoop, then go stealth ram. Better budget about $5000 or more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhaTTy Posted September 1, 2003 Author Share Posted September 1, 2003 Well.. after doing some more research, it seems that the LS1/LT1 engines are quite expensive to mod. I am rethinking just a SBC 350 from say 70's-92.. Me and my dad may be building it up for power, but I would appreciate some suggestions on what car to get the motor out of (that has the highest stock HP), and preferably something I could find in a salvage yard. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest greimann Posted September 1, 2003 Share Posted September 1, 2003 If you go the salvage yard route, then just get any 350 from a 70's or early 80's vintage GM car or truck. They are all pretty much the same. Make sure you get a 350 and not a 305 because they both look the same on the outside. Check the Mortec site for casting numbers to tell: http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm Stock HP is going to be about 150 to 225, but that really doesn't matter much because when you rebuild it, you will be changing cam, pistons, intake, and either rebuilding the heads or getting new. 300 to 350 HP is easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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