Guest Anonymous Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 hi, well im new to this board, and i really have my heart set out on buying a z, i was just wondering if there are any disadvantages or advantages in buying a 240z, 260 or 280. I know the 240 is the lightest of the bunch. My neighbor is also giving me a 350 for about $500. He's a mechanic btw and i've known him for a while. Also, i was wondering if anyone has a used JTR book since this will be my first z and all or maybe knows where i can get one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 I know this may not be the most popular view, but my thought is, the main advantage to this endeavor is high power to weight ratio. By the time the 280Z was going out of production, it weighed 300 to 400 lbs more than the first 240Zs. Go with a rustless (I know, tough to find) or subframed/rollbarred 240Z and your several hundred lbs lighter, and that much faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 ok, so the only major difference would be weight? also i just sent in an order for a new jtr book whoo! getting antsy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jwelch Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 Welcome to the board. Pete is correct on the weight. The 280Z (77 and up) have solid subframes which makes them a little strong and less prone to cracking around the rear fender and quarter panel window area. The 280Z does have more interior space, I believe?I have a 280Z but if I had my way I would go with the 240 the styling is better than the 280. I think you are also better off with a 240Z when it comes to emissions, depending on what state you live in. Regards, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 Interesting comment about 240's cracking around the rear quarter window and bumper. My 70 has cracks in the paint in the C pillars. I always thought the car had been in a slight accident at some time in it's life. Never would have guessed chassis flex but it makes sense. Really can't go wrong with any of the variants. Just find a rust free car at a good price and be happy. The 240's and early 260's had the smaller bumpers which look WAY better than the latter models. But like the JTR manual says, the weight gain was due in part to stiffer frames so that is an advantage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 240/260/280 - It really doesn't matter if you're going to do a V-8 swap. You'll be changing everything on the car anyway. It all really depends on your end goal for the car. I have a '77 280Z and I personnally prefer it over the earlier models because of the extra strength that comes with the additional steel. Mine is being built as a daily driver rather than a 1/4 mile machine so reliability and comfort are strong considerations that I'm willing to sacrifice the .3-.4 seconds in the quarter for. For what it's worth -the EPA standards for the '77 model are 750 ppm HC and 7.5%CO (the '78 is 650 & 6.5%). Neither were required to have a catalytic converter except in California. You should be able to tune any well-built motor to meet those requirements. My stock L28 with 200,000 miles on it got 70 ppm HC and .02%CO on it's last ever emmissions test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utvolman99 Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 I really didnt think there was any dimensionally difference between the 240, 260 or the 280? I guess I could be wrong. I do however like the models before the impact bumpers. The really cool close fitting front bumpers were only on 70-72 models but can be added to any Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnG Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 And Motorsports Auto sells the even cooler "European" version of these close-fitting bumpers which are chromed all the way, no rubber strips or holes for the strips. I put these on my '71 hybrid last summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 Also remember that the later Z had ALOT more wiring, and we all know how much wiring weighs. If you strip all teh unecessary crap out, you'll save weight. If there's no emissions issues, then get the newest model you can. It will probably have less rust, less metal fatigue, and generally less wear and tear, and the rubber items may be in better shape. And like others have said, the bumpers can be changed. Also, the older models (240s0 are getting more and more scarse at the JYs, but 280s are a dime a dozen...at least around here! If you are carrying a few more pounds, it won't make much difference with 300ft lbs of torque under foot. JMHO. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 6, 2002 Share Posted June 6, 2002 thx for the feedback guys yea i think i'll probably get a 280 since they're easier to find in good shape o and about those european bumpers, do you happen to have a pic of it or know where i can get some? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted June 6, 2002 Share Posted June 6, 2002 I was just looking at them in the MSA catalog. About $600 for a set of front and rear. Try www.zcarparts.com for a catalog Better check your local laws! If you have regular saftey inspections, better hope you either get a totally clueless or totally cool inspector. The first guy won't realize the bumpers aren't OEM and the second won't care. MSA also has some aero kits that hide stock bumpers (or lack of them). They also have fiberglass ones ($270 a set), but those are potentially bigger problems then the euros. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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