Guest Anonymous Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 When I had my Supras I wanted some easy, cheap HP mods since it's a pretty heavy car. If I remember correctly the 7MGTE is factory rated at 237hp. I got some easy HP by shimming the wastegate, changing over to a Lexus AFM for more air flow, Saab blow-off valve, 550cc injectors, a late model turbo Supra fuel pump, an HKS F-con w/fuel defenser, and a custom 3inch downpipe. I think I was able to do all of this for around $500. After these mods I think I was pulling around 325hp, give or take. 7MGTE's are notorious for blowing head gaskets, so if you're going the distance and doing a rebuild, be sure to lap the head and block surfaces and definitely use a metal head gasket. Most people think that a machine shop can put a great surface on these parts, but it won't even compare to lapping. You'll end up with a finished surface much better than when it left the factory, and won't have to worry about blowing the gasket even under hard boost. Again, my 2 cents worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majik16106 Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 yah, 100% true, for anyone who is new to supra engines, or thinking about doing a 7m swap, a head gasket is a must. even if its stock, it still needs a metal head gasket. the third gen guys have made shirts with jokes about blown head gaskets, thats how much of problem the stockers are. The only reason I havnt posted many pics, is because Im waiting to have more done, i probably wont post anything up for a month or two, im getting things done really fast now, and id rather "debut" it more complete. it will look plenty cool. Plus I really want to introduce her to the hybridz board with a cool music video. So, we'll see, but ill make the wait worth it. CLifton's car is mostly stock, id like to see a comparison once we get moving. Mine isn't modded REAL hard core, but it has a small upgraded turbo, so it would be cool to see 1) how well a 7m powered Z performs, and 2) how much faster it can get cheap as What ive done doesnt cost a lot of money. Im willing to bet that this swap is going to end up being one of the best. I bet it will make the car real fast for pretty cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 240Zduz10s Posted September 14, 2003 Share Posted September 14, 2003 you guys have any do's/dont's when i comes to this swap.. anything that you would do differently next time.. ? what did you do for a throttle cable..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majik16106 Posted September 14, 2003 Share Posted September 14, 2003 Not really, the swap was so straight forward I cant think of anything I would have done differently. I guess I could have put 20 over pistons in it or something.... I dont know. IT really was very easy, And I set mine up where the thing just bolts in and out, including my engine cradle. I could show up at your house , and if you have a 240-280, I could have all my stuff in your car in a matter of a few hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted September 14, 2003 Author Share Posted September 14, 2003 For the throttle I made a tab and welded it to the stock peddle and used the Supra cable. majik, I would love to see how your trans mount is. My motor mounts are transferable but not the trans mount. Did you bolt it through the body? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evoandy Posted January 7, 2004 Share Posted January 7, 2004 be sure to lap the head and block surfaces and definitely use a metal head gasket. for those that are coming from a car where headgasket upgrades aren't typically regarded as "necessary", could you explain what "lapping" the head surface is? I understand the necessity for a metal HG, I'm not sure about your other terminology though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majik16106 Posted January 7, 2004 Share Posted January 7, 2004 clifton, i mispoke, my trans mount is solid, id have to weld one up. Lapping is a type of finishing technique for machining, basically smoothes out the surface so it forms a stronger seal when its reunited Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 240Zduz10s Posted January 7, 2004 Share Posted January 7, 2004 most metal headgaskets require lapping of the head and block because the gasket need an almost mirror finish to seal properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted January 7, 2004 Author Share Posted January 7, 2004 I've used 2 MHG in on L28's even reused one twice, never had any lapping. Alot of Supra guys swear by it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zachb55 Posted January 7, 2004 Share Posted January 7, 2004 man reading through these posts is getting me all antsy to wanna do an engine swap when i just got my stock engine back in the car not too long ago. i just gotta keep telling myself that high school probably isnt the best time to try and fund an engine swap, anyone wanna fund one for me? i was thinking of doing this for a senior project... maybe a V8 swap... even that would be way overdoing the thing. thanks for all the inspiration, Majik did you ever get pics of your car out? is it done now? -Zach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majik16106 Posted January 7, 2004 Share Posted January 7, 2004 took them this afternoon, hopefully i can load them up and post them up from my cardomain site tonight when i get home from class.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zachb55 Posted January 7, 2004 Share Posted January 7, 2004 alright, i look forward to that. so what are your plans for the rest of the car majik, i read in the other post that you have taken the car back apart, so what are you planning to do for the body? -Zach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted January 7, 2004 Share Posted January 7, 2004 majik, with your experince with the 1J's, would you go for a 1JZ complete with all accesories, wire harn, ecu, ignitor, auto trans for $2200 shipped, or the same with 5 spd delivered for $2800 ? I'm thinking serious about doing this swap, but would like to hear from you experinced Toyo guyz... BTW, I can most likely offset this cost by selling of my 3L stroker with all the goodies on it, so that part won't bother me. I'm just wanting to know if the 1JZ can handle at least what power I allready have (aprox 450rwhp) with the L6. I think the only thing I'd use that I have on my L6, is the TEC2 emc. thanks for the input... joel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majik16106 Posted January 8, 2004 Share Posted January 8, 2004 buy a clip, sell the extra shit and make almost everything back (supra owners buy anything) and take what you need, and GET the 5spd, the auto trannies are alright, but the 5 spd makes it worth, its no fun trying to control an 8000rpm power band with a slushbox... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 240Zduz10s Posted January 8, 2004 Share Posted January 8, 2004 a 1jz front cut has the driver on the right so you will have to do alot of rewiring to put the ecu on the other side, unless you want it under the steering wheel.. this should help with some questions http://i-supra.com/eve/ubb.x?a=frm&s=154607117&f=8036020301 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majik16106 Posted January 8, 2004 Share Posted January 8, 2004 Fyi, 1jzs in australia and japan do 650rwhp on comepletely stock motors, just turbo, fuel, Ic, exhaust, intake. a few here do 5-600rwhp without ever having the valve covers off.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted January 8, 2004 Share Posted January 8, 2004 I just received a reply back on the oil pan. The guy says this motor came from a sorcer (sp) and that the sump is to the front. Will this be a problem? Also, is there any questions I should ask as far as what MUST come with the motor/trans for me to be able to use it without having to buy parts that will nickel and dime me to death. I mean, is there a afm, ignitor, etc. that I need to make sure I get with the unit. He says it's complete, but it may be to him, but not be everything I need to make this motor run. thanks again... joel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majik16106 Posted January 8, 2004 Share Posted January 8, 2004 motor, trans, ignitor, map sensor, harness, ecu, i know this is going to sound wierd, but you need the Tachometer assembly to make life real easy. if you want an explanation on that you can e-mail me, but trust me, you want the tach, thats why i say buy a clip, you need too much extra crap to not buy a clip. make sure it has the turbo's with the y-pipe if you pan on using the stockers at all, if it doesnt have the y-pipe, its ok, i have a few extra from cars i did singles on. ALSO, the intercooler, its big, its free, it can handle 400rwhp, try to get it.' But again, i cant stress, life would be much easier buying a Jza70 clip, its the easiest version of the 1jz to work from, as the soarer harness would be a little different, i dont know how much help i'd be, especially if its a newer soarer. However, if you sent me a supra harness, i could have a perfect harness made in just a few days... provided im not busy with work.plus 3rd gen supra owners would buy all sorts of crap stuff from the clip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted January 8, 2004 Share Posted January 8, 2004 This is what I think I'm going to buy: ** JZA70 Supra - Includes 1JZ-GTE Engine, 5-Speed Transmission, Driveshaft, Differential, and Fuel Pump - 88,985 Kilometers (Approximately 55,615 Miles) $2,995 ** Joel- Our cuts include everything needed to start, run, and boost. They can actually be started with starter fluid and run as delivered. Nothing in the engine bay is dismantled. We actually drive the cut into where we cut it. All we do under the hood is disconnect the battery. The only wires that will be cut are the body harness wires heading back to the tail lights and such. I ran your zip and show you to be about 700 miles away. The cheapest way to get the cut to you would be for us to drive it down on one of our trucks. That would run $650 to your door. If you wanted two, or knew someone else wanting a cut in your zip I could help you on your shipping. I think that should be everything I need. The only thing I think is high, is the $650 to ship it 700 mi. Does it look to you like everything I need would be in this clip? Also, they are in Ga. Thats pretty close to you majik. Have you heard of anyone using this seller (Jarcoinc) thanks again joel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majik16106 Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 actually, i could tell it was Jarco from the description, its where i get all the cuts i have ever needed, i have known james for a long time. ya, go there. I got my 1jz from them. i have gotten several other cuts for friends from them, never had a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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