evoandy

I'm pretty sure the Q45 and TTZ32 have the same automatic transmission, so it might be worth it to pick up a 5speed from a Z32 (the NA and TT are the same. To install TT clutch and flywheel, all you need to do is ground the housing down and shim out the starter a bit. http://www.z1motorsports.com has a damn good writeup in their tech section.) and see if it mates up to the Q45 motor. If it does, all you'll need it a master cylinder, slave cylinder, clutch lines, clutch kit, flywheel, pedal assemblies, a starter, some wiring knowhow, and you're set. I think I have a brake pedal assembly sitting around here somewhere if you're interested...

I'd like to see what you mean by fastest nissan in the world. I"m 99% sure that the highest top speed recorded on a Z chassis nissan is still held by the JUN Z32, which is powered by a VG. That record is 419 kmh (something like 255 mph?) set at the bonneville speed trials.

well, if we're talking about building the engine anyways, power potential may as well go right out the window. Talking about built vs. built the difference between the potential VG and VQ is nonexistent. I"m sure the VQ is a superior motor for various reasons (weight being chief among them), but power potential definitely isn't one of them.

if you want a quick revving four from nissan, you might want to look at a CA. If I remember correctly, the CA is undersquare, and revs all to piss. The SR can rev damn well, but the CA can rev even better. Its kinda like the B18 vs. B16 discussion. The B18 can rev damn well, but nothing like the B16 can. There is an entire litany of pros and cons regarding the SR vs. CA debate, but one thing that almost everyone agrees on is that the CA is peakier and revs damn high, and the SR has a lil more grunt.

the 5speed from the TT and NA is the same. The only difference is the bell housing. To mount a TT tranny to the NA motor, all you need is a TT flywheel and clutch. To mount the NA tranny to the TT motor with a TT clutch/flywheel, you'll need to grind out the bellhousing a bit and shim the starter out a little. I just finished an auto-manual conversion on my Z32, and I got my tranny for 400 bux in excellent condition. I've seen them go for as much as 800 and as little as 250 in working condition.

I personally like waxing by hand. The only thing I would use a powered device for is polishing and buffing. Thats just me though... The sander idea might work, but it can be dangerous. With a sander you have the danger of burning the paint by working up too much friction and heat. As long as you keep it moving it shouldn't be a problem though. A buffer actually made for a car will always be the better choice. Another thing to think about is the bonnets that go on these sanders. They usually have a thick sponge under the material to protect the paint, but they also soak up waxes or whatever you use like... well... a sponge. I used an orbital buffer on my car twice and everything kept soaking into the sponge. I was halfway through the bottle of wax after waxing my car twice... If you're really that short on time, i would recommend buying an actual automotive buffer. or just use the sander hope that you're good at it... if you want more answers I suggest going to http://www.autopia-carcare.com. The guys in the detailing forums there really know what they're talking about, and the hand vs. buffer debate has been had at length there many many many times.

try http://www.300zxclub.com. they have several FAQs regarding the swap. Its not a direct replacement, and it can be very difficult and expensive to do. reading the FAQ on that site and doing a search will answer almost all of your questions. http://www.twinturbo.net also has alot of information regarding this.

for those that are coming from a car where headgasket upgrades aren't typically regarded as "necessary", could you explain what "lapping" the head surface is? I understand the necessity for a metal HG, I'm not sure about your other terminology though...

actually... you do need mounts to drop an rb into a 240sx. otherwise mckinney motorsports wouldn't sell them... you will definitely need a custom driveshaft as well. you'll also need an IC of some sort and an exhaust. just to get running (safely and legally, I guess the car will RUN w/o an exhaust and intercooler...) of course. I think 2500 is optimistic to tell you the truth, although I've never swapped an rb into one of these cars. Its probably not IMPOSSIBLE if you have hookups. My suggestion is to either save up a lil more, or do as much as you can with that 2500 and see where you are when the dust settles...

are you using engine enamel or just spray paint? I used black engine enamel on my calipers, and just pointed a hair dryer at them for a few minutes between coats. It worked like a charm. They were instantly dry. well... not instantly, but they were dry to the touch after just 5-6 minutes.