blueovalz Posted September 16, 2003 Share Posted September 16, 2003 My previous bar, at full droop, would pinch the cv boot to the point of cutting them. I found a JY bar what would work. It's an early model Prelude front bar that I modified slightly, used some '91 Stanza swaybar links, and now finally have a swaybar of sufficient size and shape to stay well away from the cv boots. It's a 13/16" bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted September 16, 2003 Share Posted September 16, 2003 awesome! can i ask why would anybody else need to do this? i was gonna order sway bars this week but if they dont fit then i wont.. and in what way did you modified it? very cool! mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted September 16, 2003 Share Posted September 16, 2003 looks like he welded on tabs to the end brackets of the bar, and made custom endlinks. The setup is very similar to the setup of the suspension techniques rear sway bar. looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted September 16, 2003 Share Posted September 16, 2003 Doesn't welding on the swaybar effect the temper of the steel? Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted September 16, 2003 Share Posted September 16, 2003 it probably does, but on the sway bar the tension is spaced more evenly than pressure in one specific area. highest point of tension is probably at the bends that form the elongated |________| shape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 16, 2003 Share Posted September 16, 2003 Tim, I know a couple of guys that have cut the ends off their swaybars, welded on 3/8 x 1 x 3 inch piece of bar stock, drilled it in 3 or 4 places, and made adjustable bars then hooked up rod ends. None have ever had a problem that I'm aware of. In fact I was thinking of doing that myself. The swaybar is more of a torsion spring, so if the welding is of good quality and on the end of the bar it doesn't seem to matter that much. Even more extreme modification: a long time ago, like more than a couple of years - there was an article in Grassroots Motorsports that was saying you could cut a piece of tubing in half and weld it to the straight part of the bar in the middle to get a stiffer swaybar. I never liked the idea because you were welding in the area that gets twisted, but those guys usually know what they are talking about. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted September 17, 2003 Author Share Posted September 17, 2003 Yes, red hot, slow cooled spring steel will no longer be spring steel. The significant "working" part of a swaybar is between the arms (this depends on the lenth and configuration of the arms). The steel in the arms beyond about 2" from the brackets never got hot enough to relieve it of the temper (I used a high heat, fast weld, on the angle brackets welded to the ends of the cut off arms). These last 2" will have little if any effect at all on the "spring" of the bar as a whole, and these last couple of inches will not bend (permanently) due to their thickness even with the loss of the temper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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