I'm a moron, please help me (I think I ruined my paint)

[jmead]

I'm pretty upset at the moment. On my 76 280z (the one in my sig), evertime I washed it I would get these spots on the body, like water spots, but no matter what I did they kept comming back. I heard that dawn dish soap will strip off wax and allow you to apply a fresh coat without anything left on top of the paint. I tired this once, using the soft side of a scotch pad and without any pressure, but it didn't look as though I had gotten the spots of wax off. So, next, (this is the part where I'm a moron), I decided to use the "hard" side of the pad to get everything off the paint. I tried to be gentle, but it seems I've ruined the paint on my hood and front fenders. The paint is now scuffed, it looks like it is steamed up, and the scratch and swirl marks cover the hood.

 

If I wet the paint, thinking that maybe there is just soap residue left, it looks great, the color is back (though upon close inspection you can see the scuff marks), until the water evaporates and it looks cloudy again. I thought maybe a coat of wax would fill in the marks and restore the paint, but it doesn't seem to work. It is "smoother", but the color is way off, it doesn't look anything like the dark green it used to, and it isn't the same color as when wet.

 

So, what did I do? Scuff the clear coat, or what? Does anyone think there is anyway to restore my paint? I loved the color before, and that shine, but it seems its gone. Can anyone help?

[Tim240z]

Try some buffing compound, or as a final resort, color sand it with 1500 grit paper.

Tim

[john kosmatka]

Do what tim suggested. If you dont have the resources to do it yourself take it to a auto detailing shop.

John

[Guest rick458]

I dont want to hurt your feeling or depress you further,BUT, I used a scotch bright pad (smooth),to polish my SS pistols .

so if a smooth one with a drop of FLITZ will remove scratches from hard Stainless, I rather imagine a coarse one had NO problems cutting through some of your paint.

you will probably have to wet sand it with really fine paper as TIM240Z suggested

[jmead]

Try some buffing compound' date=' or as a final resort, color sand it with 1500 grit paper.

Tim[/quote']

 

"color sand", what is this? Is it a special technique, or just standard sanding.

 

I guess I'll get some buffing compound, see what I can do.

 

There were a few small imperfections on the door and panel anyhow, maybe I'll be able to get them re-painted now (great..)

 

The paint on the car has metal flakes in it, anybody think that will make it hard to match the paint? Is it even possible to easily match the paint, or would I end up needing to get the whole car redone?

[Tim240z]

it's light sanding with wet 'smooth' sandpaper.

Tim

[Guest greimann]

It might be possible to salvage, but since you are inexperienced at paint fininshing and we can't see the paint close up, don't monkey with it and take it to a paint professional before you cut any deeper. Surface scratches can be sanded and polished out, but if you cut too deep, it's repaint time. You need an experienced hand at this point.

[THUNDERZ]

Go with a 1500 or finer to do that sanding...lots of water if you do that. I think the best idea is to use a high quality buffing compound that you would find at an auto paint store. Use a buffer! Not a grinder with a buffing pad!. This all depends on how thick your clear coat was if it is clear coat. Most of the Z cars were single stage if I am not mistaken at wich point all you need to worry about is breaking through to primer.. Careful!

 

Jim

[Afshin]

As already mentioned you may want to show it to a body shop, they my be able to buff the spots off in a few minutes with a good power buffer. If you are going to use sand paper I recommend you use 2000 grit as opposed to 1500, let the sandpaper soak (softens the paper) in a bucket of soap water (the soap makes the sandpaper glid easier)and then keep it constantly wet (or it will be more likely to scratch. do it gently and EVENLY, once you are done it will look hazy but smooth, then use a compound by hand to bring the shine back (using buffers without experience may cause more damage). I strongly recommend 3M scratch/swirl remover, it's excellent and not to hard to find.

You can pratice on an old fender,hood.. if you or any of your friends have one in the backyard...Good Luck

[jmead]

Well, some PROGRESS has been made.

 

I did one of the fenders with 1500grit, all it did was make it more hazy than it was before, but it did smooth it out. This just discouraged me even more and I gave up.

 

But, I went back at it with some 2000 grit along with soap water, followed up by some 3M rubbing compound, and it LOOKS GOOD!

 

I'm very excited, I love my car, and I love the paint too, ruining it made me quite upset. There is still much to be done, even the spot I finally got to shine still needs some work, but I think with a little more sanding and alot more rubbing compound it will be as good as new. I tried alot of stuff along the way, scratch remover (helped a little), several different waxes (helped a little), turtlewax rubbing compound (didn't seem to do much), turtlewax scratch remover rubbing compound (again, nothing), but the sanding and 3M stuff is what it takes.

 

Thank you all so much for your reccomendations, I wouldn't have known what to do if it weren't for all the suggestions. I think once I perfect the process and get the rest of the damaged areas done I will write up a little how-to for anybody who gets themselves into the same boat as I did and doesn't know where to turn (when I first saw the damage I did a google search and came up with nothing on paint repair like I needed)

 

Thanks for the help

[Guest greimann]

The theory behind paint finishing is you put progressively finer and finer scratches in the paint until the scratchs are so fine that the surface reflects pretty much 100% of the light that strikes it.

 

Think of it in terms of wood shop (I think we all had that). If you took a rough sawn board right from the saw mill and tried to smooth it down with 320 paper, you are going to get nowhere because you are trying take out huge scratces with fine paper. you need to start with some 50, then 80, 120, 220, and 320. Then you will have furniture.

 

The principle is the same with paint only on a different scale. Your scotchbrite pad put in some deep scratches that need to be progressively worked out. Ideally if you knew you had the paint thickness, you would start with 1000, then 1500, then a fine cut polishing compound like 3m Perfectit or 3M Finessit. Used on a polisher with a foam pad, (not a random orbit wax buffer). The polishing compound will give a finished paint look, you then follow with wax to protect the surface.

[Afshin]

I'm glad the 2000grit/soap water/3M combo worked, I've always sweared by it. 3M products are all great (meguiar's mothers also have good products but they are variable and a lot of the non proffesional line up products they have are not that great, so you need to know excatly which one to buy).

I'll aslo add in my 2c about bringing out a deep rich shine to the paint:

1)use clay bar as suggested by RacerX, it's absolutely great. You can find mother's at most stores. this will remove all the imbedded crap in the paint (you won't believe how smooth the paint will be after you use it)

2)use swirl/ fine scratch remover (not compound), again use 3M. meguiar's has a good one in their prof. line up (I can't remember the number), but the regular one is not that good. this will add much depth to the gloss by removing most microscratches. This step can often be done twice to help remove swirl lines.

3)then use a good wax (too many choices to go over, Klass, carnauba, synthetic....).

I bet anything you will be highly pleased if not amazed at the results.

[jmead]

I'm glad the 2000grit/soap water/3M combo worked' date=' I've always sweared by it. 3M products are all great (meguiar's mothers also have good products but they are variable and a lot of the non proffesional line up products they have are not that great, so you need to know excatly which one to buy).

I'll aslo add in my 2c about bringing out a deep rich shine to the paint:

1)use clay bar as suggested by RacerX, it's absolutely great. You can find mother's at most stores. this will remove all the imbedded crap in the paint (you won't believe how smooth the paint will be after you use it)

2)use swirl/ fine scratch remover (not compound), again use 3M. meguiar's has a good one in their prof. line up (I can't remember the number), but the regular one is not that good. this will add much depth to the gloss by removing most microscratches. This step can often be done twice to help remove swirl lines.

3)then use a good wax (too many choices to go over, Klass, carnauba, synthetic....).

I bet anything you will be highly pleased if not amazed at the results.[/quote']

 

Honestly, at this point I will be happy just to have paint left on the car. But then again, maybe there is a silver lining, maybe after the hours and hours I spend repairing my mistake I'll end up with paint even smoother and scratch free then when I started.

 

And I know one thing for sure, I've got much appreciation for paint care already. I didn't really understand first hand what went into making a "show quality" paint job, and now I do. After this I'm certainly going to be taking better care of my paint than I did before.

 

I've already learned a few little tricks. Like watching the water left on the surface you've just sanded as it dries. As the water evaporates, it reveals small imperfections and scratches that you may have missed while sanding. You splash a little more water on there, sand everything down, and then watch it for the next scratch to appear.

[Afshin]

Hello back to you RacerX, I guess you were not able to make it to the last bay area meet in union city. All is well on my end. Car is running great, all I need now is some free time to install some nice new toys I have awaiting patiently in the garage.

BTW do you work close to the city ? If so email me and let me know where so I can stop by if I'm ever in the area.

Afshin

[Guest bigjim240z]

the best way is to wetsand with 1500, then 200. then use a cutting compound with a buffer and a cutting pad, then once you finish with that use a polishing compound with a polishing pad or a foam pad. this works but if you dont know how to use a buffer you will burn the paint. good luck!

[THUNDERZ]

yeah like I said a 1500 or finer grit would take care of it . With a buffing compound should disappear.. Its a good idea to get a good initial bite to go through wax and other build up to pass scratches. Then switch to a finer grit. Then buff with something like 3M finesseit. My product of choice.

sand with water only. some soaps can wreck your paint.

Jim :

[Guest bigjim240z]

that was supposed to say 2000 not 200..sorry.

[Afshin]

Contrary to a previously posted suggestion...I would not suggest introducing any non paint related substance such as soap! to the sanding procedure as foreign substances have the tendency to promote reactions in paint adhering correctly

With all due respect, we are not talking about paint prep, the car was not being painted, so adherence of paint is not an issue of relevance. Secondly, it's not good to introduce non paint related substances prior to painting relates primarily to grease/wax, not soap which can remove foreign substances, including grease and washes off with water. And again, the topic was wet sanding to remove scratches, not paint prep.

And while soap is not needed for wet sanding, it's certainly helpful for people who are inexperienced at wet sanding.

 

Paper will soften up as you add water to it instantly

Simply Not True, take the sandpaper, leave on piece in for an hour and wet the second for an instant, then bent the paper and see if they are both as soft or compliant. Or leave a piece of thick paper in your toilet boil over night (it will be mush)and compare it to a paper which has been wet for a minute.

They won't be the same.

[Guest Nic-Rebel450CA]

BTW, never use dish soap on your car. Think about what dish soap does to dishes, it removes oils. It will do the same thing to your paint. The best way to remove water spots or any other kind of blemish (even swapped paint) is something like Mother's polish. It has a very fine micro-abraisive that you can polish off anything. Even works on burnt on water spots on chrome. I will never try some home remedy on any part of my car if I know that there is a product on the market to do it right.

[zguy95135]

yea cleaner wax will take water spots right off