Not yet quite ready for paint, but getting close.

[blueovalz]

You guys probably didn't notice this but my blueovalz never had any hood hinges on it. Due to the body design (and the fact that it was a race only car) I never used hinges on it and simply removed the hood (via Dzeus fasteners) when needed. Being the car is a street/show priority now, I went ahead and put some hinges on it. I had to use some VW sedan hood hinges (design and weight were priorities here) due to the Z front end design that required even the very front tip of the hood to come up as the whole hood was swinging forward. I'm assuming the G-nose hinges are similar (any pics of a G-nose hinge out there ).

Hinge detail below. The 1/2" steel tube bracing (running up and down above the hinge in this photo) runs even with the front edge of the hood at that point, but the front tip of the hood is about 3" longer (further forward), which created the biggest problem in making sure it clears as the hood opens. Fortunately, I've got about 1/2" between the hood and the front clip with the hood all the way up.

[Synlubes]

Terry,

Ever think of making parts for sale?

Maybe a g-nose kinda frt with intergated air dam.

[Wagz]

Terry -

 

Do you have any more detailed pics of your hinge setup? Nate (Nezzie76) and I have been brainstorming ideas for fabricating hinges for his Velo Rossa/Alphabet kit. We believe we have a plan, but this may give us some new ideas.

 

Thanks

[blueovalz]

There is really not much to say in regards to details. The picture above of the hinge on the chassis is simply a bracket welded in place so that the hinge can swing upward as close as possible to the edge of the front clip where the leading edge of the hood line is. The further forward you move the pivot point, the greater effect of the hood moving upward instead of forward when it is opened initially. The purpose of this is to keep the front edge of the hood from rotating forward and binding before clearing the front clip (which may be only an 1/8" or so). Otherwise, a larger gap than is desirable will be needed to prevent the binding.

Here is a photo of the visible part of the hinge in the most upright position with the hood attached. Notice that I place the hinge pivot point (and thus the hinge) as far forward as possible so that it was at the very minimum, further forward than the pointed leading edge of the hood. Unfortunately, the front point of the hood is also elevated an 1" or so, so this subtracts from some of the advantage gained in a forward hood hinge, so the hinge needs to be well forward (a larger, longer hinge, such as Taurus trunk hinge would have worked better, but they are rather large). Also moving the hinge inboard on a pointy front end also moves the hinge forward as well.

Lastly, here is a photo of the top of the front end. The black horizontal line represents the centerline pivot point of the hood hinges joining the two together. Even at 1.5" forward of the hood center point, the hood only clears by 1/2" (at full open) due to the rise in the center of the hood (it's not flat) and the fact that the pivot point gets lower as it is moved further forward (due to the downward curving of the front end body.

[Wagz]

Terry - Thanks! That is actually VERY helpful. This thread is well timed since, Nate and I were just discussing this topic earlier in the week and are planning to work on this soon.

[zguy95135]

i like the hood, would one like that fit with a L28? how hard was it to make because i was thinking of a custom one like that (like one of those IMSA hoods)