Guest Anonymous Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 I'm starting frame rails and floor pans on what will be a track car.(240Z) I'm looking to get more than the 3 degrees of caster that came on the car. I have a set of adjustable TC rods but was thinking about locating the TC rod attachment points a little farther foward to increase caster and then adding shims or adjustable TC rods to fine tune to the desired setting. Any thoughts on this and has anyone tried this yet. I figure a little high school math to find the distance to move the attachment point and I'll be in the ball park as far as Caster goes. Thanks for your input. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 Hopefully the venerable Mr. Coffey will chime in here, but I believe that moving the pivot point forward is a bad idea....changes the camber gain? Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Aaron Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 Would there be enough compliance in the rest of the suspention? I think blueovalz moved the entire cross member forward to achieve the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 I'm guessing that BOZ moved the crossmember forward to lessen the amount of twist on the front control arm bushings. You would still need a longer TC rod if you were to move the crossmember. The stock "bucket" is pretty flexy, and if you already have an adjustable TC rod with a rod end, it should be really easy to make a stronger mount from 3/16" plate or similar. Be careful of getting the angle wrong on the mount, or you will twist the end of the TC rod where it bolts to the control arm when the suspension goes through it's travel. I would suggest that you only move the mount if you have rod ends on both the control arm and the TC rod, then you should make your bracket and tack it in place, then bolt everything up without the strut in, and make sure that the suspension doesn't bind when it goes through it's range of motion. If you already have adjustable TC rods, it kinda begs the question of why you don't just adjust caster with them. Even if you wanted to make a better mount, you could still leave it in the same place, and lengthen the TC rod to get the caster. HTH, Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 Not a good idea for a track car. Moving the TC rod pivot forward and shortening the rod makes the static caster number look better but the dynamic caster number is much worse because the shorter rod describes a greater arc. You lose the built in negative camber gain in bump that's built into the 240Z fron suspension. You can also significantly increase stiction (at the lower control arm bushing) which reduces compliance. If anything, move the TC rod pivot back and lengthen the rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 When I rebuilt my front chassis(tubular front end), I moved the pivot point up 3/4" and out 1/4", but did not move it fore or aft. I had already moved the pivot of the lower control arms by the same amount, and I noticed that the aluminum delrin bushings were in a bind. I have custom T/C rods with a rod end at the rear. To increase caster, I moved the top of the struts back 3/4". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 Thanks for the input guys. I'll leave them where Nissan put them and stick to the adjustable TC rods. I love this place, it would have sucked to have to cut all that off and do it a second time. 74 5.0 sweet work! Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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