Guest yTTyTee Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 I have a very complex problem that showed its evil head today on my way to work, it may just have a very simple answer though. I'll start from the begining. When I first purchased my 1976 280z Z it was idleing at 1500 RPMs and had the water temp sensor disconnected (the only way we could get it to idle). When I got it home, I trouble shooted the problem and found it to be a hole in the underside of the tubing between the AFM and the throttle body. It was pulling in more air then the EFI was reading. After patching the hole the car idle beautifully at 800 RPMs and purred like a cat drinking milk. Also got tons of power from the engine (was able to keep up with a 1990 Mustang 5.0 ). The only problem I was still haveing was the mixture was running a bit rich, could smell it in the exhaust and saw it on the spark plugs. So I asked this forum what I should do about it, and I was told to try taking the panel off the side of the AFM and ajusting the wheel clockwise inside, a few teeth at a time until the mixture was just right. So I pulled the AFM out of the car yesturday and attempted to remove the panel, after taking off all the screws except two, I realised someone had glued the last two screws on and the whole panel itself, so there was no way of getting it off. I put the screws back on and placed it back in the car, having not done anything to it except remove screws. I tried to start the car, and the starter moter just turned and turned. I did get it to sputter to life for half a second, to just die on me right away. So, I jacked the throttle way up and it started beautifully, except for the high idle, I slowly screwed the idle back down to 800 RPMs, where it idled just fine. After this I drove it around a bit and it responded fine, still had lots of power. Now comes today, and the unhappiness. This morning it was below 32 degrees ferenheit, dunno if that really made a difference or not, but its a good thing to note. I went out to my car to start it up and warmed it up for about 10 min, then drove off to work, I took a short trip on the free way, and as soon as I got off, I would shift from 1st to second and the engine would't pull the tires at all, the car would just rev down, I got the car down the street, and it stopped, then I stopped at a stop sign, and the car stalled completely. I attempted to start it up again, and just got the same results as the day before when I had just placed the AFM back in. So I turned the idle up again, and it started just fine. So I began to drive off, then it began sputtering and dieing as I was driving up hill, I noticed also that my fuel was a bit low, but I still had an 8th of a tank. Thinking that maybe my gauge was wrong I put 5 gallons in it, and it drove just fine to where I parked. After work I started it up and drove a few blocks just fine, however the engine sounded a lot louder then usual, and the gas pedal was vibrating a lot more then usual. It then stalled again and I had to turn up the idle again. All the way home on the freeway the engine just sounded wrong to me, just too loud. It also wasn't driving very smooth. I got home, pulled the AFM off and tested all the electronics. Everything checks out as far as I can tell. I do have a question concerning this though, as I opened the flap with an ohm meter on pins 7 and 8, when the flap was closed I got 180 ohms, when I just slightly touched it open it went to no continuity, and seemed to blip resistance every once in a while when I rotated the flap around, but this may just be the ohm meter. I was thinking that the resistance should slowly gain in ohms, but since the car does exelerate correctly, maybe I'm wrong. Anyway, if anyone could help me out with this it would be awsome, its just really confusing me since all I really did was handle the AFM and now it dosn't seem to work correctly. Oh and one more question, will an air meter from a non turbo ZX work on the stock 1976 L28E? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest yTTyTee Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 If anything does anyone know about the AFM from a ZX L28E working on a 76 L28E. I can get one off ebay for cheap and it will quickly rule out or in the afm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 If anything does anyone know about the AFM from a ZX L28E working on a 76 L28E. I can get one off ebay for cheap and it will quickly rule out or in the afm Can't hurt to try, but I was under the impression the ECUs from the Zs to the ZXs were quite a bit different. That doesn't mean the AFMs are, but there's a good chance they are different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunlover Posted November 9, 2003 Share Posted November 9, 2003 They are diferent. The ZX AFM does not have two pins that the 280z ecu needs/uses for the fuel pump shut off switch. (emergency shut off if the engine stalls) I have one in my '75 280 and have jumpered the wires for now (in the harnes clip) so the computer THINKS the switch is closed. Closed meaning "car is running, air flap is open 5 degrees or more" I think there is a slight diference in the flap weight too.. but I think the rest is very close. Also, your car may have the "dual pickup" distributor, meaning there are two circuits the distributor can run on. (advance and retard) Which one it runs on is determined by a "transistor ignition unit" (passenger side kick panel area) that switches between the two circuits using a relay under hood. (passenger side under a black cover on the shock towwer) This relay is switched by... (da da da dum da dum...) The water Temp sensor after a certain temperature is reached. Hope this was of some help.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.