80LS1T Posted November 7, 2003 Share Posted November 7, 2003 Well I finally received my box of mandrel bends from summit! They have been on back order for 2 weeks. I got a box of them instead of buying them all seperate.......10-180* bends / 4-120* bends / 4-90* bends for $185 which comes out to $10.28 per bend instead of the $13-$16 per bend if you buy them seperate. I am pretty sure this will be more than enough to build my headers since I dont think I will have to modify the passender side header, just modify the exhaust a little bit. I am also using Patriot D-Port shorty headers for my flanges. I just have to cut out the middle and use the collectors and the flanges! I hope that works since I dont have room for full size collectors. I know this is going to take a lot of time but I know this is the way to do it! I dont want to have to explain why I only have one header any more. I just want to open the hood and show off the LT1 Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted November 7, 2003 Share Posted November 7, 2003 what size tubing are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted November 8, 2003 Author Share Posted November 8, 2003 Well I wanted to go with 1 3/4" but I thought the 1 5/8" would be easier to work with since its a little bit smaller. What works good for cutting the pipe nice and straight? I have an hand held angle grinder but I dont think I can do nice straight cuts with it. I was thinking of a small radial arm saw of some kind with metal cutting blade? I saw once at Menardes for like $60. The arm would rotate in 5* increments and lock. It looks like it would work but can I get a metal cutting blade for one of those? Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted November 9, 2003 Author Share Posted November 9, 2003 Ok this is what I am talking about for cutting the piping..... Will this work? This is not the $60 one that I found at Menards obviously but its close. I just dont know if I can get metal cutting blades for it or not and if it will hold up to cutting metal instead of wood? Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest greimann Posted November 9, 2003 Share Posted November 9, 2003 Yes, you can get a metal cutting carborundum blade for that. Check out your local hardware store. Get some safety goggles while you are at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted November 9, 2003 Share Posted November 9, 2003 These blades work well for what you want to do Click Here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted November 9, 2003 Share Posted November 9, 2003 Guy, What are you going to use for a collector? Are you going to cut the one off that header in the picture, or going to make one up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dot Posted November 9, 2003 Share Posted November 9, 2003 I found an old table saw with a carborundum disk works well. When it wears down small they get put in my grinder. You will need something to debur the pipes after you cut them... rat tail file or die grinder. This is a most satisfying project and takes more thought than time. Cheers…:::Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted November 9, 2003 Author Share Posted November 9, 2003 Yeah I will be using the collector from the one in the picture. I dont think I have enough room for a full size collector. I know I dont on the passenger side. I am going to try to make them as close to the same size as possible so I dont want a full size collector on one side a a regular shorty header on the other side. I think I will go pick up that miter saw at Menards and a blade for it tommorow. I'll be sure to post pics of my progress too! Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted November 16, 2003 Author Share Posted November 16, 2003 Well so far so good. All I have done so far is make my "jig" for the header and mounted the flange & collector. Since I know that the original LT1 exhaust manifold works all I basically did was bolt that to the pieces of wood, mark where the bolt holes were and then remove the manifold and bolt on the flange and collector. I did have to move the collector over a little bit for better plug clearance but so far I think things are going great! Here's my "jig" with the flange & collector mounted to it... Here's a pic of how the pipe routing will basically be... I am going to start cutting and fitting the pipes this week! Guy 8) P.S. Oh yeah and I just wanted to say that for anyone who has ever done this....."you rock!" This is going to take a lot of time, effort and creativness to get this done but I think I have all 3 of those! So I should be just fine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted November 16, 2003 Share Posted November 16, 2003 looks good. Keep any tips comming our way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted November 16, 2003 Share Posted November 16, 2003 Thanks for keeping us up to date Guy. Looks like a fun project. Maybe I missed it, are you going to have them ceramic coated when you get done? The pics are great too. I had a thought. Why not switch the red and pick pipes? Seems like it would be easier to route them that way. I'm not looking at it in 3D so maybe I'm not seeing something. It shouldn't make any differance to the motor. It's a simple 4 to 1 collector and not tri Y's so I don't see where it would matter where they go into the collector. Maybe you're tring to balance the pipe length. I'll have to take another look at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted November 17, 2003 Author Share Posted November 17, 2003 Thanks for keeping us up to date Guy. Looks like a fun project. Maybe I missed it' date=' are you going to have them ceramic coated when you get done? The pics are great too. I had a thought. Why not switch the red and pick pipes? Seems like it would be easier to route them that way. I'm not looking at it in 3D so maybe I'm not seeing something. [/quote'] Yeah once they are completed I will be sending them out to be ceramic coated. Now about the pipe routing....I can see what you mean by switching those 2 pipes and I even thought about doing it that way but since the "red" pipe is lined right up with the last port it should be a real easy fit. The "pink" pipe on the collector will actually have a small amount cut off so that it angles up more then a bend will be put on so that it goes to left. Its hard to tell in the picture how exactly I'm going to route the pipes but I "think" I've got the routing down to how I want it. I will know once I get the first one in. More pics to come this week! 8) Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannji Posted November 17, 2003 Share Posted November 17, 2003 Newbie question here.. does it make any difference whether or not the individual pipes are of equal length between the flange and the collector? It seems like some of the custom pipes I have seen went to considerable trouble in their routing to achieve that, but I never knew how much of an affect it would have. tannji Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted November 17, 2003 Author Share Posted November 17, 2003 Ideally, yes you want equal length pipes but in my situation anything is better than a stock manifold. My pipes will not be equal length because there just isnt enough room to do that(well there might be but since this is my first time making a set of headers, I dont want to make it too complicated for my self! ). Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannji Posted November 17, 2003 Share Posted November 17, 2003 Roger that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nic-Rebel450CA Posted November 17, 2003 Share Posted November 17, 2003 does it make any difference whether or not the individual pipes are of equal length between the flange and the collector? Contrary to popular belief, the length has very little if any bearing on power on most engines, especially larger displacement engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted November 21, 2003 Author Share Posted November 21, 2003 Well things are going great! I have 2 of the pipes routed and tacked in place. I took the header out of the "jig" tonight to test fit it and it fits perfect! I was kind of concerned that the #3 port pipe might interfer with the steering gear box but I have about 1/4" of space till it touches! Now the last 2 pipes should be easy(knock on wood!) Here's a topview of the header so far... A front shot of the 2 pipes tacked in place... Another front shot of the 2 pipes tacked in place... As you can see I did change the pipe routing a little bit. Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannji Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 And to think I was about to buy a welding rig and take a couple of classes..... you are only a few hours from me, want some business?? Awsome work dude!! You will have to post a WMP file of the exhaust note when you get it finished, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted November 22, 2003 Author Share Posted November 22, 2003 Well due to the "gun deer" season starting this weekend I probably wont finish them till late next week. Unless I get my deer tommorow! If I could find a way to make these easy, I think I would make up a couple of sets and sell them. They would still be pretty pricey though....the Patriot headers that I cut up costed $130(uncoated version), pipes were $185, plus about $20 in welding supplies and I'm not sure how much ceramic coating is going to cost(anybody know where I can get that done and how much it's going to cost?) So lets say the coating costed $100...that would me they costed me $435....would anybody be interested in a set for say $550ish(Coated and ready to bolt on)? This would be the only set for a 280ZX SBC that would bolt in for the gear box type steering. Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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