Corzette Posted November 11, 2003 Share Posted November 11, 2003 Does anyone know what torque I should tighten the rear flange nut to after the CV upgrade is done? My car got to the U.S. today!!!! CZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Dreamer Posted November 11, 2003 Share Posted November 11, 2003 Corzette, are you state side and retired now? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted November 11, 2003 Author Share Posted November 11, 2003 Yes brother!!!! whew Hew!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted November 11, 2003 Share Posted November 11, 2003 congrats on getting back to the big PX, what location are you going to settle in? IF FLA stop on bye! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted November 11, 2003 Author Share Posted November 11, 2003 Grumpy!!!! Thanks brother. It wouldnt be running without you for sure....I am in San Angelo Texas! My job will probably eventually take me out to Florida as well. I will definately want to stop by and visit! Thanks for your thoughts! Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted November 11, 2003 Share Posted November 11, 2003 If you are talking about the nut that holds the companion flange on, it is 180-230 lb/ft to the best of my recollection for a new nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted November 11, 2003 Author Share Posted November 11, 2003 Thanks Terry! 8) TB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted November 11, 2003 Author Share Posted November 11, 2003 Thanks Terry. Also, when I do my CV conversion flange install, should I keep the car on the ground and remove the nut on the flange? How hard is it to get the flange off after the nut comes off? I just want to know the procedure for swapping out the old flange with the new CV adapter flange.....thanks in advance. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted November 11, 2003 Author Share Posted November 11, 2003 Last question. How should I pop out the axles from the R200? Are they easy by pulling or do I need a pry on both sides to pop out? CZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted November 11, 2003 Share Posted November 11, 2003 The flange comes off easily after the nut is removed. but to install the CV jointed shafts, you'll need to take the inner lower control arm bushing retainers off so that the entire arm/strut assembly can swing away from the differential. Can I assume that you will be removing the nut off of a Z axle and that you know the implications involved in the incorrect removal, as well as making sure you've got the correct axles (or the CV adapter flange)?. Simple questions, but many start a project such as this without all the information needed. The axles will pop out fairly easily out of the differential, but yes, you'll need to pry simultaneously on opposite sides of the input stub (cv casing). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted November 11, 2003 Author Share Posted November 11, 2003 Terry I got the adapters welded up by Ross and I got the 280ZX CV axles in hand. I also have the new flange nut and washer for each side. So heres what I do right: 1. Have the rear wheels firm on the ground or up on ramps as I like the extra clearance. 2. Remove old U-Jointed shafts from flange and diff and remove. 3.Use pry bar on each side of diff stub axles to pop out. 4.Get 1/2 drive and socket with a pipe for torque bar. 5. Remove nut (I think theres something about this nut that needs to be bent up or something before removing right? A lock of some type? 6. Remove nut and flange. 7. Grease and slide new flange back on. 8. Put on washer and new nut and torque to 180 to 200 ftlbs or so. 9. Make sure I have the right CV axles for each side (I assume the same length as the U-Joint axles will be the same sequence i.e. Longer one on the passenger side and shorter on the drivers side etc. Pop them in. 10. Unbolt the rear A-Arm inner bolts and cross member bolts to allow the A-Arm to swing out enough to clear the CV nipple. Bolt the CVs onto the flanges. 11. Push the A-Arms back into place and bolt up. make sure the diff front mount is tight etc. 12. jack down to level and make sure nothing hits etc. 13. Test Drive.... Did I forget anything? CZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 11, 2003 Share Posted November 11, 2003 5. Remove nut (I think theres something about this nut that needs to be bent up or something before removing right? A lock of some type? Be sure to thank BOZ. He probably saved you a lot of hassle. The sides of the nut are hammered flat against the 2 flat sections on the stub axle to lock it down. You need to carefully and completely cut the peened area away with a cutoff wheel before you try to take it off. Get a GOOD LIGHT in there. If your stubs have been out before (if someone changed the wheel bearings previously) some mechanics peen both sides, some just one. I spent a long time cutting away the nut on one side on my car, then wasted the threads when I took it off. The mechanic who was in there last had peened both sides. I even had the car on a rack, and I just didn't put enough light under there to see the peened area. Let's just say my thread file and I were good buddies that day. You can get 280ZXT nuts to replace the old ones, they don't require peening. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted November 11, 2003 Share Posted November 11, 2003 Thanks Jon. If the peened part of the nut is not sufficiently cleared away from the threads before unscrewing the nut, you'll end up galling the threads in a fustrating attempt to remove the nut. Take your time here on the issue Jon spoke of. It will save you time, and aggravation, later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted November 12, 2003 Author Share Posted November 12, 2003 Thanks, well the nut that came with the adapter from Ross doesnt need peening. I havent looked at mine yet but nothing is ever easy it seems. I may have to just take the whole assy to a machine shop and let them do it for me....thanks for the heads up guys....I will take pics when I do the swap and I will also be doing the rear disk conversion and 280ZX Booster /MC upgrade. Much work to keep me busy. Oh I also have a new wiring harness and signal light switch to install sometime....I just dont seem as motivated to do that as I am with the other stuff! By the way does any of you guys know which power wire feeds the signal light switch to the signal lights. Mine is shorted. the flashers work but the fuse blows for the signal lights. I am thinking about trying to by pass to the column and fuse it from there back to power. I have tried weeks to find the problem with no avail. This would be a temp solution until I do the harness swap. There are three red wires running to the signal light switch with a different color mixed I think. Does anyone know which powers the signal lights? I guess I can try by default until I find it. I would think that if my flashers work, the short shouldnt be in the lights path right? It should be the power feed path that is shorted somewhere right? Just thought I would ask.... Thanks! CZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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