New dyno numbers.

[Guest FordMotherFocus]

Max power 203.1

Max torque 225.0

 

Where is the other 200 hp everybody has been promising. You guys said it should be making power all the way to 7500. And it shouldn't be making any power until 4500. Well it peaked at 5400 and just went down after that. Something is seriously wrong with my motor.

[blueovalz]

Heck, that's pretty good HP for a Focus !!

[Guest FordMotherFocus]

No, this is my 450 hp desktop dyno proven 350ci beast. With some serious problems.

[Guest FordMotherFocus]

This is what Im running:

74? camaro 350 c.i. short block rebuild

Including 9.5 flat top pistons

Crower solid roller camshaft .567 lift 288 dur

Crane gold 1.65 roller rockers

Crower solid roller lifters

Trick flow pushrods

DartII heads 2.05/1.60,springs rated to .700 lift

Port matched to intake

Brodix HV1 pro bracket intake ported with heads

Fluid damper SFI balancer

Stock water pump with 160 degree thermo

MSD 6al ignition box

Holley Street Avenger 770

Summit oil pan and melling pump

Billet valve covers / Edelbrock pro-flo

Accell 8.8 mm wires/ plugs

Sanderson QP1000 Headers

Desktop dyno software rates this combo between 464 and 513 horsepower

[blueovalz]

Just joking. I assume you are quoting these numbers at the rear wheels. It sounds low, so until someone more knowledgable chimes in here, I'd say the easiest thing to "miss" that would have a large impact on these numbers is ignition timing. Other than that, you may want to make sure that the lash is correct.

[z ya]

Damn man, I know how you feel. When I went to the

dyno I expected an honest 300 to 330 rwhp. Well I

ended up with 275rwhp/280 rwtq. I was a little

disapointed but oh well. My a/f ratio was way rich

at 10 to 1 across the board. With some tuning I

feel i should fine another 10 to 15 hp. Gonna go

for 13 to 1 across the board. Good luck, your z

should be an animal when ya figure the problem out.

[Guest Anonymous]

I agree with Terry, timing can make a HUGE difference. My bro's 302 crate when from a wimpy non-tire burning stone to a motor that will smoke them by jumping on it just by bumping the initial advance from 5 deg. to 20 deg and removing the vacuum advance. I kid you not when I say he picked up a easy 100 hp. I'm serious, rolling in first just nailing it will burn them, grab second and you have rubber for as long as you like.

If you think about the importance of timing by having it not advanced enough you're losing a good deal of your compression ratio as the piston at speed is already coming down when it fires. That means reduced cylinder pressure and way reduced power. A badly jetted car will blubber and lose HP but when your down ALOT of hp, I'd check the timing, its the first thing I'll check from now on.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

 

Ps: The reason the vacuum advance was removed is because the throttle plates with the cam in the motor were open far enough to give vacuum at the ported vacuum port and cause problems. If you hook your vacuum advance up to this port at idle and the engine speeds up, you may have a problem with the metering block, or the cams radical enough where you won't be able to effectively use vacuum advance at all.

[Mike C]

Ignition timing is the place to start. Actually second place. First is make sure that the carburetor is opening all the way. A 400+ hp motor at 1/3 throttle is only a 130hp motor. Get a dial back light at sears and check initial and total advance as well as where it comes in. I run my motor at 40 degrees total timing (those antique combustion chambers really like lots of spark lead) If that all checks out, you may have to tear into it and degree the cam to make sure it is installed correctly and that it is ground correctly. Hopefully someone in your area can give you a hand. I would be happy to 'twere I closer.