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HybridZ

mustache bar I need something stronger


mas28O

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I broke one once, where did it snap, mine snapped near one of the bolt holes, over time it had ovaled out and one day it just ripped in half.

I had bad bushings on my bar though, giving it just that much play and boom, it was gone...

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I spoke with a couple of mechanical engineers about why the bars would break and the reply was that if the nuts have loosened slightly then the diff will begin to move in the holes of the bar.

 

Once that begins the the holes become oval from the beating they take until the bar snaps from the "Shock" load of dumping the clutch.

 

They say to make sure to torque the nuts to the recommended setting.

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Mas280, have you seen Terry's (BlueOvalZ) setup???

 

I know someone who broke a bar just like you did. I don't think it had anything to do with the nuts being loose. It broke about halfway from the back of the diff to the bushing IIRC. He had a NA 2.8 with SU's, but he also had big tires and LSD and liked to do burnouts.

 

Jon

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I still use a stock bar but I added some reinforcement. I got a 6" piece of 2" angle iron that is made of 1/4" thick steel. Then I drilled two holes in it so I could place it over the top of the bar and bolt it to the diff cover using the two big bolts. Then I drilled a 1/2" hole through the angle iron and through the lower cross member. Then I ran a 1/2" bolt up through the crossmember to the angle iron. I also used a 1/2 water pipe around the bolt to allow the bolt to be tightened down without pulling the diff down. I run 10.7's at 134 mph with a 350, slicks, and 5 spd and I have never had any problems with bar. I also welded the front mount solid.

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Mike,

Since you are running the R230, I ssume that you now have 4 holes in the bar? (2 from the R200, and the two new ones for the R230). I bet that if you really wanted something stronger, you could go to a leaf spring shop and have them make you a blank one.

Tim

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Ok...

I posted my rear diff mount in the HybridZ Picture Gallery.

 

Man my car looks dirty! No wonder I get so dirty when I work on my car!

 

The mount has been slightly modified as described in my first post. I forgot that I had cut some of the length of the angle iron and weld in some side supports. It makes it easier to get to the mounting bolts when it angle is cut and welded this way. However, I also put one of these on my turbo car and left the the angle full length and without side support and it works fine.

 

I also made the front mount solid by welding in tabs of metal between the upper part of the mount and lower part of the mount. The metal is used to bridge the rubber gap. And if you cut the upper part of the mount flush with the lower part of the mount it makes it much easier to remove the drive shaft bolts. But be ready for some burning mount rubber when you weld it. A little smokey but no problem.

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