Guest Anonymous Posted September 10, 2000 Share Posted September 10, 2000 I just recieved 3 sets of the summit block huggers to coat for the upcomming good guys show here at the texas motor speedway. There is about a 3/8"to 1/2" difference in the bend of the tubes between the 3 sets. The angles of the mounting flange are also very slightly different. This would explain why some of you can use them with angled plugs and some cant. I guess it is the luck of the draw. I just wanted to share this little tid bit. But In can say that the headers look great coated, but do require a little more clean up of slag and welds to look really sharp. I sell them for 200.00 coated inside and out. Have a nice weekend , Tony ------------------ My Z is unfortunatly on the back burner,due to the shop,but not to much longer!! www.speedtechcoatings.com [This message has been edited by takman57 (edited September 09, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted September 10, 2000 Share Posted September 10, 2000 Tony, What is a set of 1 3/4s running these days? Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 10, 2000 Share Posted September 10, 2000 Mike, my guy hasnt gotten our speedtech headers ready yet, a fit issue, but I should have a line of headers soon with 1 3/4 primarys, but I will coat any brand of block hugger inside and out for 130.00. I think sandersen has an 1 3/4" blk hugger. Not sure of the price. Later ,Tony ------------------ My Z is unfortunatly on the back burner,due to the shop,but not to much longer!! www.speedtechcoatings.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted September 11, 2000 Share Posted September 11, 2000 quote: Originally posted by Mikelly: Tony, What is a set of 1 3/4s running these days? Mike I'm ordering a set from rewareder shortly as he'll custom tweak them to fit my 280ZX for no change in cost and their price of $310 for a coated set of 1-3/4's built properly (still short/huggers (not full length) is v. reasonable IMO. Very open to any comments on these vendors or other options though, I'm about to mail him a check (Jim is away this week if you call rewarder with q's, he does the custom work). I'm trying to avoid needing special head/header adaptors/spacers. I also included any SAnderson's I thought were relevant (most 1-3/4's except the cc1ap) http://www.rewarderheaders.com/ http://www.centuryperformance.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=SDH-C32 http://www.centuryperformance.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=SDH-CC1AP http://www.centuryperformance.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=SDH-CC1-3/4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 12, 2000 Share Posted September 12, 2000 I'm starting to consider 1 3/4 headers myself. Not sure yet who'll get the call but before I order I want my motor to show up so I can see which heads it's got - angle plug or not I asked for straight plug but ya' never know! Should be Edelbrock heads.. Block huggers for sure though and probably NOT cast headers. I just don't want the weight is all. Will plug wire clearance be an issue with that size primary? What size collector do these usually have? I seem to recall three inch and that's a touch big. I don't think I want to run anything bigger than 2.5 inch pipe. If the price is right I'll be running ceramic coated otherwise I'm pondering just wrapping some regular headers and dealing with the fractures later with a better set of headers. Very interested to see what other's experiences have been. Mike, you're looking at 1 3/4 headers - you really think you've lost that much power with your current setup? P.S. Followed the links - yup 3inch collectors. Hrm, think the first opne might fit an older Z? Too expensive to wrap - those suckers are nice! I'd only wrap cheap junk Hooker or Summit headers (grin). [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited September 11, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 13, 2000 Share Posted September 13, 2000 i got a set of 1 3/4 full length from motorsport. I run 292 chevy turo heads with angled plug. They fit nicely. I forget the price but it was less than $300 ------------------ He sent me to get the Jedi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 14, 2000 Share Posted September 14, 2000 Did those full length headers work in the JTR setback position or did it require a Scarab position? I seem to recall that Motorsport sells parts to go Scarab - yes? JTR recomended full length headers from a street rod but I don't think I've ever heard from anyone that's tried it. I'm curious as to ground clearance.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RON JONES Posted September 15, 2000 Share Posted September 15, 2000 BLKMGK,I have a set of the full length street rod headers that came with my car.Your welcome to see if they work.I will send them to you if you would like to see if they fit.Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 15, 2000 Share Posted September 15, 2000 quote: Originally posted by BLKMGK: Did those full length headers work in the JTR setback position or did it require a Scarab position? I seem to recall that Motorsport sells parts to go Scarab - yes? JTR recomended full length headers from a street rod but I don't think I've ever heard from anyone that's tried it. I'm curious as to ground clearance.... Bought the whole shootin match from motorsport. Kit header etc. very pleased. Do not belive this is Scarab. Motors sit very low and far back. I run a small 6 in. fluid damper harmonic balancer and it sit about an inch above cross member. I forget how high the crank center line is above pavement, but it is significantly lower than my brother's 86 vette. We measured it. The crossmember' firewall side edge had to be notched to clear the front of the oil pan below the timing cover. Oil pan is a 7 qt. milodon with no sump. It look like a rectangle. HEI large cap distributor had to be installed after engine mounted. Factory hood latch had to be cut out so it would slip in. The transmission is an automatic and the only thing visable it the dipstick tube which it sanwitched beetween the heater core's copper in and out necks and the firewall. The rest is under the firewall. If you need me to I can take measurements. But it would be hard to get engine any further back without cutting firewall or any lower without a redesigned cross member. Rear of valve cover is below heater core hoses. ------------------ He sent me to get the Jedi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 15, 2000 Share Posted September 15, 2000 quote: Originally posted by BLKMGK: Did those full length headers work in the JTR setback position or did it require a Scarab position? I seem to recall that Motorsport sells parts to go Scarab - yes? JTR recomended full length headers from a street rod but I don't think I've ever heard from anyone that's tried it. I'm curious as to ground clearance.... Bought the whole shootin match from motorsport. Kit header etc. very pleased. Do not belive this is Scarab. Motors sit very low and far back. I run a small 6 in. fluid damper harmonic balancer and it sit about an inch above cross member. I forget how high the crank center line is above pavement, but it is significantly lower than my brother's 86 vette. We measured it. The crossmember' firewall side edge had to be notched to clear the front of the oil pan below the timing cover. Oil pan is a 7 qt. milodon with no sump. It look like a rectangle. HEI large cap distributor had to be installed after engine mounted. Factory hood latch had to be cut out so it would slip in. The transmission is an automatic and the only thing visable it the dipstick tube which it sanwitched beetween the heater core's copper in and out necks and the firewall. The rest is under the firewall. If you need me to I can take measurements. But it would be hard to get engine any further back without cutting firewall or any lower without a redesigned cross member. Rear of valve cover is below heater core hoses. ------------------ He sent me to get the Jedi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted September 15, 2000 Share Posted September 15, 2000 bubafett, Thanks for posting that. We now have some good info on what the motorsport kit does for engine placement (sounds very similar to the JTR. How far is your HEI cap from the firewall? I think it's pretty exciting that the motorsport headers are full length and 1-3/4". I guess I'm now wondering if they are equal length tubes, and how thick the head flange is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted September 15, 2000 Share Posted September 15, 2000 quote: Originally posted by pparaska: bubafett, Thanks for posting that I think it's pretty exciting that the motorsport headers are full length and 1-3/4". I guess I'm now wondering if they are equal length tubes, and how thick the head flange is. Well as far as equal length most headers purported to be that don't measure up to it when you actualy spec them out in person just FWIW (ie. one vendor may just be more honest and have same quality header and not say 'equal' length). While (if) the MA offerings are being measured can you tell us: - how close to the block/oilpan interface they come (ie. within 1/2" or 3" etc) -where the collector finished (ie. 5" rearward of engine/tranny interface) -do they come v. close to your motor mount (picture your motor mount sticking out 5 inches like mine on my ZX is), would it clear this? -I assume they drop straight down b/t motor mount and starter (symmetric are they ?)? -how far below your oilpan/block lip do they go at their 'shallowest' (then we'll know ground clearance regardless of our rideheights) Thanks! PSS a few asked about whether 1-3/4's were needed, not an absolute at all but since we don't have a set already (well mine need to upsized from 1-1/2) and you're spending money IMO it's best to go a touch large if anything on size as we're not challenged for bottom end torque by any means so larger tubes will only enhance upper end and move any exhaust restriction further down the line (ie. with 3" Y and 3" single it moves back to muffler) and further away your restriction is less effect it has.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 16, 2000 Share Posted September 16, 2000 Ron, I appreciate the offer but I've not yet even got my motor When I do I'll be looking at header options and may contact you about it. Given my choice - honestly - my ideal header would be something between a full length and a block hugger. Something like the shorty headers that they use on Mustangs and Camaros. I feel pretty sure that if we had enough headers to check out, say if we owned a coating service (wink), that perhaps we could find the right setup. I did note that JTR mentioned their cast manifolds coming from an older Caprice. Perhaps headers made to fit that vehicle would also work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 17, 2000 Share Posted September 17, 2000 quote: Originally posted by pparaska: bubafett, Thanks for posting that. We now have some good info on what the motorsport kit does for engine placement (sounds very similar to the JTR. How far is your HEI cap from the firewall? I think it's pretty exciting that the motorsport headers are full length and 1-3/4". I guess I'm now wondering if they are equal length tubes, and how thick the head flange is. Car is an hour away from my current home. I will check all measurements and get back with everyone. Ask me what you want measured... What I do know... The headers come very close to the block. Allen headed plugs are used in the water jacket pipe plugs with the square head interferred with clearence. The header has to be unbolted and pushed aside to change oil filter. Will install remote to fix this problem. Collector Flange is about even with flywheel and top collector bolt is had as hell to get to. It is a 15 min job to unbolt the collectors. I will dimple floor pan when I pull motor again to make instalation easier. Equal Length Header? In a street chassis where you are dealing with more design constaints, I beleive fit is far more important than equal length. My resident expert says that if tube lenghts are within 6 inches of each other this is good enough for 6 sec 1/8 mile times. He builds Pro Mod Cars which run low 5s in the eight. He can also build any header you could want out of any material. His comment was that the Motorsport Headers looked great and would be hard to improve upon unless you desired an all out race car. I do not know who built the headers for motorsport. They would not say. The were not drop shipped and all attaching hardware was on the cheap. Threw away gaskets and collector to exaust pipe connector. I used a die grinder to funnel the flange into the primary and clean up the inside diameter welds. Other than that no complaints ------------------ He sent me to get the Jedi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted September 17, 2000 Share Posted September 17, 2000 Thanks for that info. I wasn't sure how important equal legnth was. Sounds like it's importance is out of my league. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 18, 2000 Share Posted September 18, 2000 Actually from what I've heard many "equal lengths" aren't so... These sound pretty good My only measurement request would be ground clearance. Would you have had more with shorties? Does the floor pan near the collector get warm? Do you have straight or angle plug heads? Were the headers coated and if so what did you think of the job? Thanks for the info - VERY helpful! [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited September 18, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYRON Posted September 19, 2000 Share Posted September 19, 2000 I got my headers from a company that builds custom street rods, the guy does awesome work and i have seen his cars in magazines. Anyway he got me the headers with the tubes reversed, (inside cylinders to outside collector) I may be ass-backwards on that, but the headers have a very thick walled tubes and the quality so far has been great. they were in a plain white box with no name anywhere... He charged me 130.00... He also has tons of catalogs with other brackets/headers/pullys anything that one could need to build a custom Z or street rod.... If you guys want the number I will get it and post it on this site.. Myron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 23, 2000 Share Posted September 23, 2000 quote: Originally posted by BLKMGK: Actually from what I've heard many "equal lengths" aren't so... These sound pretty good My only measurement request would be ground clearance. Would you have had more with shorties? Does the floor pan near the collector get warm? Do you have straight or angle plug heads? Were the headers coated and if so what did you think of the job? Thanks for the info - VERY helpful! [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited September 18, 2000).] I have the measurements! Back of valve cover to firewall 3 1/4 inches Front of Block to core support 16 1/2 inches 6 inch fluid damper to steering rack 1 inch Crank center line to pavemant 12 1/2 inches Lowest part of header to pavement 3 1/4inches With a edlebrock vic jr. and holley 750 with drop base air cleaner an 4 inch filther, the hood closes about 1/2 inch ajar. I use hood pins and run the hood resting on rubber donuts over the pins. Floor pan does get warm. There is no carpet in the car. The header were not coated. i will do this later after final fit. I will pull moter for cam and head swap soon. The heads I currently use are angle plug and plugs are easy to pull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 24, 2000 Share Posted September 24, 2000 Cool, thanks! I'm going to have to think about long tubes some more - really appreciate the measurements! BTW - Aiken? My grandmother taught school in Graniteville and helped run the rec center over there. if you grew up in that area you might have even known her! I spent many a Summer at the Rec center until it got so commercial. Grandparents lived in a neat old house (100++ years old) at the corner of Canal street, understand it's being turned into a B&B. If you're ever over that way I'd love to hear how it looks - it's just across the raod from the railroad tracks and the marching band field. House was sold for a song and vandalized after they moved out before the sale (sigh). Don't know if I'll ever get back there but it was a neat town Small world..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted August 13, 2004 Share Posted August 13, 2004 Old post, but do the Summit block hugger headers work on the 1st GEN Z's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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