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Installing sub-frame connectors/two different methods


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I've about got my 280 stripped to the shell and am getting ready cut out the rusty floors and install sub-frame connectors. I,m not sure if I should install them w/the car sitting level on jackstands or if I can get away w/doing it while on the rotisserie. I'm afraid of sagging if I do it on the spinner but it will be a heck of a lot easier to weld this way. Pete P./Marc Wagner please feel free to chime in.

P.S. The transmission tunnel and rockers are solid but the floor is gone.

Thanks

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Not that I am an expert on this subject, (as I want to put a frame in my 280z and have similar questions....) But from what I have learned, the trans tunel and rockers are what carry/handle most of the suport for the car.. if they are good and solid, and the car is stripped to a shell, I don't think it would sag much either way...

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Hey, JP.

 

I spent some time worrying about this question too. In the end I did mine while the car was on the rotisserie. I was careful to strip the car to the absolute bare shell (every last nut, bolt, wire, etc.) to get the maximum amount of weight off the uni-body. I was undecided about leaving the doors on. I wanted to get the weight of the doors off the car, but they do add some rigidity to the chassis when they are on the car (closed, of course :D). In the end, I decided the chassis would remain straight without them and removed them.

 

I also did only one side at a time, cutting out the rotted floor pan on the passenger side, welding in the subframe connector, welding in the new pan material, etc. Then I moved on to the driver's side. I test fitted the doors when I was done to make sure they would open and closed easily. It's not a scientific test, but I feel confident the chassis remained straight.

 

If you have the time and the inclination, you could add some kind of temporary door frame bracing going from the base of the A-pillar to the somewhere above the door latches to brace the open space and give the car more rigidity while installing the SF connectors.

 

I'm not sure how Pete did his, but I'm pretty sure Tim240Z did his while on a rotisserie as well. It made test fitting and welding the subframe connectors SO MUCH easier.

 

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

 

-Marc

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I did mine with the car on the jack stands - 8 of them. 4 in the engine bay area and 4 behind the seats. That was to keep the car from sagging in the middle.

 

The 240Z shell was light enough for me and my dad to lift - probably 400-500 lbs bare. But on the rotisserie, it'd be held up at the ends. I was concerned about it sagging for that reason. Maybe overly concerned, not sure.

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I did mine the same way Pete did his. I just felt it had a better chance of being square. I did tack weld them in and then it went to a frame shop so ensure squareness. While on the rack under tesion it was welded up in a more permanent fashion till it got home for final grinding and welding. Just my 0.02 cents

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Pete,

You did yours together with the frame rails. Didn't you? I am getting ready to do subframe connectors in my 280Z, on jackstands, but only have four. I thought as long as the frame is solid the car should be relatively straight and correct. If this thinkibng is faulty let me know, last thing I want to do is put in subframe connectors then lower my car and find out I can't open a door. I just figured it would be smart to do it while swapping the rear with the LSD I have.

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PETEW,

I did the engine frame rail first, and had the car on at least 6 jack stands when I did that. I held up the car from the firewall back with 4, and then the radiator support with 2. Then I did the subframe connectors, with 8 jackstands. Even the cheap stamped steel ones will do, since the shell is so light.

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Just got my 280z up on 4 stands tonite, and I was amazed how rigid the chasis still is.. considering how rusted my whole car is! I had the passenger side on stands (front and rear) and when I jacked up the drivers side front, the whole drivers side went up with no creaks or cracks! I have the doors on mind you, and new floors were put in about 2 years ago. I think the 4 stands will do it. Im not cutting the whole floor out, just the bottom section of the factory 'rail' (just a thin steel u chanel) and sliding in my 2.5" square tube to the T/C mount, then a 45@ up to the rear frame. I'll get some pics soon to put up.

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Zerrari yes mine was pretty bare. All I did was make sure the car met all specs than put some tension on it to pre stress it and added more tack welds everywhere. When I got it home i ground the welds and finished it all off. I am running internal and external frame rails too I should add. Sorry for the late reply but I just got back from my Vegas New years!!! AWESOME!!!

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