EvilRufusKay Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 I know there are a couple of methods. One is to bond the new 1/4's to the originals. Another is to use a fastener. I am wondering first what is the name of these fateners ( begins with an F) and where can I get them. I am also wondering which method of attching them is prefferd. I know you guys are full of...opinions so lets hear some. Thanks, Rufus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 Are you thinking of Dzus fasteners? Try racing outlets like Coleman or Racer Parts Wholesale, or Pegasus. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilRufusKay Posted February 28, 2004 Author Share Posted February 28, 2004 Thats it Dzus!!! Thanks Jon!! I will try those places. Appreciate it, Rufus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roostmonkey Posted March 3, 2004 Share Posted March 3, 2004 Dzus fateners remain visible and are a quik removal type fastener.I would think you'd want something that can be covered with bondo so the 1/4 looks finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilRufusKay Posted March 4, 2004 Author Share Posted March 4, 2004 You are right. I am thinking of bonding them somehow. Got any ideas? I haven,t done a search yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dot Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 Hey Rufus: I removed my old quarters to the point where it would not interfere with the structure of the car. Then installed ‘full’ quarters on by removing the paint and grinding the metal to a coarse surface. The holes for the rivets were pre drilled. A layer of glass was put down on the metal, then the panel on top and then the counter sunk rivets were popped. This was done on a cool day to give the necessary time to pop all the rivets before the resin gelled. The area was then heated for a complete cure. I epoxied over the rivets then did the bondo thing. The only problem encountered, is that the rivets show up under the paint. Even after two repaints. They do something to the metal flake. In hind sight I should have used sheet metal screws. Then removed them after the resin had cured. Hope this helps some. No cracks after 19 years. [edit] It is best to use stainless rivets (available at boat stores) or it will bust out like a suitor on prom night. The worked on area is a lighter grey along the top of the rear quarter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilRufusKay Posted March 4, 2004 Author Share Posted March 4, 2004 Thanks Dot that is very useful info. I will do a search and then decide what I will do. Thanks again!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmyntti Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 I bought a car with fibergalss quarters already installed. It was done similiar to what Dot said with the rivets. I do not know if the area was prepped correctly or not but both quarters have opened up at the seam from metal to fiberglass and I can see the rivets still attached to the metal. The rivets pulled thru the fiberglass. I will be reworking this area. I read somewhere about an adhesive to use for bonding metal to fiberglass. Any one have any info on this stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dot Posted March 6, 2004 Share Posted March 6, 2004 Hi Don: I was afraid that the seam would open up as well. It is necessary to keep the seam/ metal over lap to a minimum to avoid the cracking that will result from the inevitable thermal expansion and corrosion. The area of overlap on the V12Z is confined to the small section on the top of the rear pillar. The size of about 2 or 3 inches. The wheel wells are ‘glassed from behind. The panels I used were full replace parts, not patch panels. The attachment points are the same as the originals. I have no idea where you could get some today. I know of a of and epoxy paste they sell up here for bonding panels but it would have a different name south of the border. You could try sourcing out a Corvette shop or a boat supply store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmyntti Posted March 6, 2004 Share Posted March 6, 2004 Thanks Dot My quarters are complete from the trim line down. This is a long seam. I wish they did go up into the pillar area like yours. They are also glassed in behind the wheel wells. I was told the metal was cut out behind the replacement panel. I am concerned that this will weaken the cars structure. This is one of the reasons I plan on using a roll cage to stiffen things up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilRufusKay Posted March 6, 2004 Author Share Posted March 6, 2004 Getting ready to cut out my 1/4's. Any opinions on the best tool for the job? Air nibbler? Will an air powered cut off wheel work? Don't have a nibbler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dot Posted March 6, 2004 Share Posted March 6, 2004 Probably the best and cheapest air tool for the job is the air chisel. The chisel to use is the one with the end that looks like someone flipping you the bird, a similar look to the sheet metal nibbler. Buy two, one always breaks half way through the job. Second tool of choice is the air cut off wheel… and a broom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilRufusKay Posted March 6, 2004 Author Share Posted March 6, 2004 Glenn, My 1/4's extend all the way into the channel for the hatch back and 1/8 way along the roof line. Do you think I will have stuctural problems if I remove that much material? Check out the 1/4's HERE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dot Posted March 6, 2004 Share Posted March 6, 2004 Hey Rufus: I cut mine origional quarters just above the line running from the door handle back to the tail lights. The idea is that the ‘glass panel will carry no part of the stress. The car should still be structurally sound and triangulated after your cut. I think you might have problems if you cut too far up. If your panels go as far as you say there might be a fit problem with the metal still in place. My quarters ended at, but not in the chanel for the hatch. I can't help you there. It's your call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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