BobsZTwins Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 OK, I've decided to upgrade my 260Z 350 Scarab from the Super T10 to the T56 and slide the engine back to the JTR position while I'm at it. My block is a 69-80 4 bolt main with 64cc angle plug cast iron heads (short camel humps with accessory bolt holes.) I'm using cast iron exhaust manifolds as I'm running a single turbocharger. I'm planning on buying a T56 with adapter plate from DDPerformance that is supposed to allow bolt up to my old style SBC and retain the manual clutch setup. If anyone has used one of these (or similar from Borg-Warner, etc) I'd like to know: - if the shifter comes up thru the stock location or if a mod/custom hardware is req'd. - did you have to widen the tunnel to accept the T56 like some 240's? - what rear tranny mount did you use and where did you attach it to the unibody? For the JTR position hood latch, does the JTR book suggestion of cutting 3/4 coil from each end of the spring and using the 280ZX safety latch work OK? Or does someone have a better idea? I've already cut and bent the metal for the 2 pc bracket, I just need to drill holes. Finally, does the JTR position lower the engine any compared to the Scarab position? Thanks for any advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GAZRNR Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 I am using the JTR kit, chevy 350 (5.7) & T56 with the stock bell housing and JTR mods to a T5 slave cylinder. On my 78 I did need to "massage" the tunnel some on the right side and ground down some of the fins on the bellhousing (top & right side). The shifter came up in the rear of stock location, I do not have the car running yet so I cannot tell you if there are any problems with shifter throw and interference with the dashborad. I tried an 81 shifter (when running the Datsun running gear) which was straight and it hit the dash, but the shifter location was in the center of the cutout. Make sure you slot the posts towards the front for the motor mounts, you will need to be able to line up the driveline. It will be lower and closer to the firewall. I used the JTR parts for the hood latch, it's not the prettiest setup but functions properly. My driveshaft is out of a 91 Firebird and I had it cut center to center 19 1/8 long. It fits like a glove. Hope this helps, Rusty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 My T56 is running with an LS1 in a 280Z so, again. a slightly different application. Do yo have an early or late series 260? If you have a later production model (big bumper style) you'll configure more like a 280. If early it will be more like a 240. My shifter came up about 1/2" forward of the stock location but within the perimeter of the stock hole in the tunnel. Mine alsoneeded a little tapping on the tunnel on the passenger side to make enough room for the reverse lock-out switch. It didn't require any trimming though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 My t-56 is in a 240, like an early 260. I removed my reverse lock out solienoid and made a plug or the hole. It would have been to much to beat and I didn't want to cut the trans tunnel. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobsZTwins Posted March 17, 2004 Author Share Posted March 17, 2004 Thanks for the feedback ! My 260 is an early (small bumper) car. Are you guys using the hydraulic TO bearing or the clutch fork setup? It looks like the hydraulic TO Bearing bellhousing is shorter than the clutch fork setup. If so, that'll influence where my shifter comes up. I don't want to have to cut a larger hole and possibly cut my console to get it to fit . Rusty, thanks for the JTR hood latch comments. I was wondering about interference with the distr but I guess the JTR mounts lower the engine just enough? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 I really liked the aftermarket T56 ( from chevy dealers) now owned by Tremec. For ease of installation, T5 bell housing, clutch, throwout, slave. Centerforce makes a great dual friction glod. Chevy has really light nodular iron flywheels 15lb. New aftermarket slaves are of metal and much better than plastic. Ford truck master and line work great. Shifter comes out perfectly, B&M ripper for aftermarket T56 has super short throw. I did some beating around the slave area, but no big deal. Gear ratios are 2.97,1.94,1.35,1.00,.84,.62. No skip shift. Has electric reverse lock out, and provisions for mech speedo, also T5. Pricy, but worth every penny. Two thumbs up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobsZTwins Posted March 23, 2004 Author Share Posted March 23, 2004 Well, slight change in plans. After surveying with Stage 6 Motorsport the current installation and all the things that would have to be modified to accomodate the JTR postion: oval a new downpipe (not enough room with starter against firewall); relocate the wastegate and all its plumbing; replace the mechanical fuel pump with eletric (no room for the mechanical with the set back motor mounts); find a new place for the turbo oil drain (it feeds into the mechanical fuel pump base plate) etc., I've decided to do a modified set back of about 1.5 inches and lowering about the same so I don't have to change any of the above.... but still do the T56 which is the main thing anyway. One big question remaining: what have you guys used for a tranny mount and where do you bolt it to the body/chassis? In the JTR manual it looks like it's bolted to the floorboards. I've also seen some posts about the JTR mount needing lots of mods to fit. Comments? advice? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GAZRNR Posted March 23, 2004 Share Posted March 23, 2004 I used a new stock trans mount and the JTR trans cross member. No hammering on the floor pan to make it fit in my 78Z. It is bolted to the floor pan and was an easy fit. I reinforced mine with some 1/4 in steel plates (on top) slightly larger than the cross member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobsZTwins Posted March 24, 2004 Author Share Posted March 24, 2004 Thanks for the feedback, that's what the shots in the JTR manual look like. I'm hoping I don't have to mod the crossmember much to get a good fit. I placed an order with DDPerformance today for the 440lb-ft T56, adapter plate, 27 spline yoke and mechanical speedo. Total came to $2224 with shipping. More than a bone yard but it's brand new and delivered to my door. Plus I can use my existing flywheel, clutch and master cylinder. It should be here in about 2 weeks, just enough time to finish my taxes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hjc74260Z Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 I just bought the 1386-000-011 transmission from Keisler for roughly $2300 including the special pilot bearing. It sounds like the same box you bought. Mine should be here in three to four weeks. Got tired of running 4000 rpm on the highway with the Muncie. Have you installed it yet? Are you using the reverse lockout? Any tunnel mods? I also have the small bumper early 260. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 Hubert, that post is two years old. You may have more luck emailing or PMing the guys who wrote that. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobsZTwins Posted April 28, 2006 Author Share Posted April 28, 2006 Hubert, Good to hear from you again! I got my T56 installed and running. I chopped the stock trans mounting "ears" out of the tunnel for access. I was able to leave the reinforcing band that runs over the whole tunnel. I am using the reverse lockout by wiring it to a Hurst shift handle with a momentary switch (button) which work great. I used the adaptor plate so I could continue to use the same bell housing and clutch setup. I had a local metal fab shop make a trans mount similar to the JTR piece but with my own dimensions. Cost $80. I bought my T56 from DD Performance for $2224 including yoke and shipping. Now I cruise at 80 mph at 1800 rpm running a 3.36 rearend. Cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 Hubert' date=' Now I cruise at 80 mph at 1800 rpm running a 3.36 rearend. Cool![/quote'] What tires are you running? In 6th at 80 mph running 3.73 rearend I'm also at 1800 rpm. My tire size is 295-50-15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobsZTwins Posted April 29, 2006 Author Share Posted April 29, 2006 I'm running (bald) 255/50-16's on the back. Shopping around for new tires, having trouble finding matched sets since I run 245/45-16's on the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaleMX Posted April 29, 2006 Share Posted April 29, 2006 I had to masage the tunnel on both the passenger and drivers side for the "Reverse switch" and the "Reverse lockout" respectivly. Keep the Reverse lockout, you'll be glad you did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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