fastzcars Posted October 22, 2002 Share Posted October 22, 2002 Hi all. I'm considering a 383 build to replace my 350. Getting info from different places. I'm thinking along the lines of this. scat forged crank and 4340 6 inch I beam rods. KB164 pistons w 19cc dish w/polished tops.total seal gapless rings. AFR 195cc heads milled to 58cc chambers to keep it at 10 to 1 compression ratio.edelbrock RPM intake.I'm thinking of these parts to increase effiectcy. dish piston for better flame travel and thermal properties.the 6 inch rods for the better rod ratio. the rings for the incresed seal?the small ccombustion chamber for the squesh and turbulance effects. I'm I getting close grumpy? Any info or suggestions from anybody else? . Just thinking out load.Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 22, 2002 Share Posted October 22, 2002 yes everthing sounds fine provided you pick the correct cam to match your cars weight and gearing, Id try for a 8.5 dynamic compression ratio for max performance, the crane #114681 comes close if your looking for a flat tap solid lifter cam, (yeah it will idle rough and have almost all the power above 3500rpm requireing a 3.54 or better rear gear but it will hall butt!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted October 22, 2002 Share Posted October 22, 2002 ...I'd also consider forged pistons instead of the KB Hypereutectics.... Just my $.02 and my personal experience... Mine didn't do to well... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 22, 2002 Share Posted October 22, 2002 Mikelly good point! I was going to say that also but for some reason I just left it out (old age creeping up I guess) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastzcars Posted October 22, 2002 Author Share Posted October 22, 2002 thanks for the repley guys. as far as cam i was thinking of the comp cams xe282hr. what do you think? more or less duration? or single pattern cam?Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 22, 2002 Share Posted October 22, 2002 if your going with a hydroilic roller cam that comp grind is a reasonable choice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted October 23, 2002 Share Posted October 23, 2002 I've not heard a bad thing about the KB pistons yet, but I do know 2 people who broke SCAT cranks, both in NA LT1s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 23, 2002 Share Posted October 23, 2002 crankshafts of ANY manufacture normally break from stress induced by not ballancing the engine correctly or not useing a harmonic damper,or the wrong harmonic damper or by useing rods and pistons of differant that stock weights that the ballance weights do not fully compensate for or by being wacked on repeatedly by broken or spun rods. theres hundreds of scat cranks in use in the 450-700hp range (keep in mind that cast cranks are not meant to handle the loads and rpms that 500hp plus hp could put on them.)above 500hp a ballanced engine useing forged cranks are a better idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DRK Posted October 23, 2002 Share Posted October 23, 2002 My friend built a 383 very similar to the one you are proposing. He used Total Seal gapless rings, and they never would seat. The motor was using oil like it had 300,000 miles on it. He is very particular and clean when building an engine. It is now apart again, after only running for maybe a couple thousand miles and he is going to replace those rings with standard ones. You might want to look into other peoples personal experiences before choosing to go this route. Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 23, 2002 Share Posted October 23, 2002 total seal rings are very special rings YOU MUST follow the manufacturers advise on cylinder finish and hone to get the rings to seat correctly, if you do not follow the instructions to the letter its hardly the fault of the rings if they fail to seat correctly,cast rings wear fairly fast so they seat quickly in almost any bore finish , total seal rings require special setup ,you need too follow the directions that come with the rings and use the powder thats used rubbed into the dry honed cylinder walls thats used to seat them (call total seal for the directions) BTW Ive seen more than one set of rings installed upside down, there is a top and bottom to rings and if the are installed upside down in the piston grouves they burn oil all the time, now Im not saying that your friend did anything wrong but properly set up rings normally seat well under 1000 miles/24 hours of running time http://www.totalseal.com/howdoo.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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