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Suggestions For First $500 Toward Improving Stock '95 LT1


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Just like to get experienced input on where I'd get the most 'bang-for-my-buck' to improve on an otherwise stock '95 LT1 out of a Z-28. I'll likely spend more $$ down the road, but would like to do it in $500 increments, if possible. Thanks in advance for any consideration :?

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Do you have a cable and TunerCat yet (and FreeScan)?

Depending on the condition of the existing parts replace:

Coil - $30

Opti - $300

Water pump - $200

Plugs and wires - $100

Injectors (30lb) - $250

Then:

58mm TB

Port intake

Port Heads

Cam (Crane) - $300

Roller Rockers - $200

(all prices listed approx)

 

Tim

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Thanks, as always, Tim. I have gone with MSD wires, NGK TR55 plugs, Mike (mas280) is reprogramming my ECU, Dan Juday was kind enough to gut my ps pump, Opti works fine, water pump seems fine (are you suggesting electric?), Hooker 2100 headers, large mandrel intake tube with high flow filter....

Sort of looking for bolt-on improvements, as many of those that you already listed, or ones that don't require ALOT of outside 'contracting'. And I have a VERY well-stocked workshop, for an inexperienced 'gearhead' :wink:

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Guest Your Car is Slow

for 500 bucks? nitrous will get you faster than anything else :)

 

However if thats not your bag...a CC305 cam and a set of nice 1.6 RRs would be where my 500 bucks went first (given the other stuff youve done).

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Tim, I dyno tuned it with the cc305 cam. I have the program if you ever need it. The cc305 cam is the only cam that I used, the cc304 is a very mild cam and I think that is what 240Z2NV is looking for. To me the cc305 cam was mild, but it made alot of power down low in the rpm.

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the best power curves Ive found for a serious LT1-LT4 has been with cams similar to the CROWER #00471 at the max and the crane 119661 on the low side in hydrolic roller cams, if you go lower in duration than the crane youll loose potential power, larger than the crower and you give up low rpm torque far faster than the power peak climbs, yes youll make more peak hp but the torque curve tends to suffer noticably for a street strip type car, and yes it goes without saying that youll need a 3.73 rear gear or something similar and a 2500rpm-3000rpm stall converter or manual trans and a engine with 10:1-11:1 cpr to get the best results

 

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119661&lvl=2&prt=5

(this is the cam Im running in my 383 now)

 

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00471&x=58&y=4

 

talk to both crane and crower and get thier advice

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Just like the other guys said...make sure all your other parts are in good condtion first before you buy performance parts.

 

I would also have to agree with the other guys that the cam swap is the best idea for $500. There really isnt much as far as bolt on performance parts that I would consider "good bang for the buck". Pulleys dont really help if you ask me but some guys think their great. Personally spending $200+ on a smaller pulley to get 5HP(advertised as like 20HP but I doubt you really get that much) isnt exactly bang for the buck! Aslo if you do go with a bigger cam you might have to think about bigger injectors. Although the stock ones should be good for about 350HP(thats what I've heard anyways?)

 

Swapping a cam isnt really as bad as you think. Just pull the intake, water pump, timing cover, timing set, valve covers, and remove the push rods and lifters! See that isnt so bad! LOL :wink: It just takes time thats all.

 

 

Guy

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Thanks for all of the input gang! While I'm grateful to have mas280 as my local guru/sensei/teacher/mentor, blah, blah, blah, I'm also lucky to benefit from Tim's consistent generosity. Just wanted to throw the idea out there for the masses to see if there was any consensus. Grumpyvette, you are always THE 'well' for knowledge; but, I wonder if your practices far exceed what I'm trying to accomplish in a "driver". Maybe, maybe not.

When I say bolt-on what I essentially have in mind is improvements that don't require machine work or outside sourcing of labor. I'd like to keep the plan to things that I can do in my garage with basic tools.

I already got an inexpensive underdrive, as Dan mentioned that I would have clearance problems without it, and I currently plan to run single 3" exhaust with Dynomax can and possibly additional resonator.

Tim, were you suggesting an electric water pump in your initial response, or just a stock type replacement?

I'm guessing a mild cam is on my next 'wishlist'.

Anyway, thanks again to all who took the time to throw in their .02 !

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If you plan on changing the pump, might as well go for the electric. I just put a stocker back on. If you want something a little wilder than the crane cam, the GM 847 is also good and doesn't kill the driveability of the car:

 

PN**** DURATION LIFT (1.5)LIFT (1.6) LSA

12370846 222 230 .509 .528 .543 .563 *112

12370847 232 242 .539 .558 .575 .595 *112

 

The 846 listed above is very similar to the Crane 305. Many of the F-Body guys end up upgrading from the Crane to the GM....

 

Tim

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Guest Your Car is Slow

Electric WPs serve many purposes.

 

1. it wont cavitate at high rpms as its always running at a constant rpm and isnt driven off the timing assembly/cam of the motor anymore.

 

2. Allows you to seal the rear of the pump where most LT1 pumps fail and begin to drip coolant/water onto your Opti causing premature failure

 

3. allows you to wire up a switch to turn on both your fans and wp while the car is off to cool the motor much more quickly during downtime (between races etc).

 

and for 150 or so bucks..its a worthwhile mod..although not a power increasing one.

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I looked into upgrading my LT1 and just could not spend the money on a cam for the HP return. I would spend the money on the LT4 upgrade.

If I remeber it was $1800 for 150 HP.

It seemed if I was not happy with the stock 270HP this would be the best HP per dollar upgrade.

correct me if you disagree, most of you have a lot more knlodge than me.

So I would save the $500.

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