240Z2NV Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 Just like to get experienced input on where I'd get the most 'bang-for-my-buck' to improve on an otherwise stock '95 LT1 out of a Z-28. I'll likely spend more $$ down the road, but would like to do it in $500 increments, if possible. Thanks in advance for any consideration Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 Do you have a cable and TunerCat yet (and FreeScan)? Depending on the condition of the existing parts replace: Coil - $30 Opti - $300 Water pump - $200 Plugs and wires - $100 Injectors (30lb) - $250 Then: 58mm TB Port intake Port Heads Cam (Crane) - $300 Roller Rockers - $200 (all prices listed approx) Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted April 18, 2004 Author Share Posted April 18, 2004 Thanks, as always, Tim. I have gone with MSD wires, NGK TR55 plugs, Mike (mas280) is reprogramming my ECU, Dan Juday was kind enough to gut my ps pump, Opti works fine, water pump seems fine (are you suggesting electric?), Hooker 2100 headers, large mandrel intake tube with high flow filter.... Sort of looking for bolt-on improvements, as many of those that you already listed, or ones that don't require ALOT of outside 'contracting'. And I have a VERY well-stocked workshop, for an inexperienced 'gearhead' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Your Car is Slow Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 for 500 bucks? nitrous will get you faster than anything else However if thats not your bag...a CC305 cam and a set of nice 1.6 RRs would be where my 500 bucks went first (given the other stuff youve done). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mas28O Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 I was using the cc305 cam in my lt1, and it is a good cam. You might want to look into the cc304 also. The cam swap on the LT1 is the best bang for the $$. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 Thread Hijack!! Mike, Did you do any reprogramming when changing cams? Diod you try both of those cams? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mas28O Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 Tim, I dyno tuned it with the cc305 cam. I have the program if you ever need it. The cc305 cam is the only cam that I used, the cc304 is a very mild cam and I think that is what 240Z2NV is looking for. To me the cc305 cam was mild, but it made alot of power down low in the rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 Mike, Is your program in TunerCar .bin file format? I'd be curious to see what the differences ended up being from stock.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 the best power curves Ive found for a serious LT1-LT4 has been with cams similar to the CROWER #00471 at the max and the crane 119661 on the low side in hydrolic roller cams, if you go lower in duration than the crane youll loose potential power, larger than the crower and you give up low rpm torque far faster than the power peak climbs, yes youll make more peak hp but the torque curve tends to suffer noticably for a street strip type car, and yes it goes without saying that youll need a 3.73 rear gear or something similar and a 2500rpm-3000rpm stall converter or manual trans and a engine with 10:1-11:1 cpr to get the best results http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119661&lvl=2&prt=5 (this is the cam Im running in my 383 now) http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00471&x=58&y=4 talk to both crane and crower and get thier advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 Just like the other guys said...make sure all your other parts are in good condtion first before you buy performance parts. I would also have to agree with the other guys that the cam swap is the best idea for $500. There really isnt much as far as bolt on performance parts that I would consider "good bang for the buck". Pulleys dont really help if you ask me but some guys think their great. Personally spending $200+ on a smaller pulley to get 5HP(advertised as like 20HP but I doubt you really get that much) isnt exactly bang for the buck! Aslo if you do go with a bigger cam you might have to think about bigger injectors. Although the stock ones should be good for about 350HP(thats what I've heard anyways?) Swapping a cam isnt really as bad as you think. Just pull the intake, water pump, timing cover, timing set, valve covers, and remove the push rods and lifters! See that isnt so bad! LOL It just takes time thats all. Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted April 18, 2004 Author Share Posted April 18, 2004 Thanks for all of the input gang! While I'm grateful to have mas280 as my local guru/sensei/teacher/mentor, blah, blah, blah, I'm also lucky to benefit from Tim's consistent generosity. Just wanted to throw the idea out there for the masses to see if there was any consensus. Grumpyvette, you are always THE 'well' for knowledge; but, I wonder if your practices far exceed what I'm trying to accomplish in a "driver". Maybe, maybe not. When I say bolt-on what I essentially have in mind is improvements that don't require machine work or outside sourcing of labor. I'd like to keep the plan to things that I can do in my garage with basic tools. I already got an inexpensive underdrive, as Dan mentioned that I would have clearance problems without it, and I currently plan to run single 3" exhaust with Dynomax can and possibly additional resonator. Tim, were you suggesting an electric water pump in your initial response, or just a stock type replacement? I'm guessing a mild cam is on my next 'wishlist'. Anyway, thanks again to all who took the time to throw in their .02 ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 If you plan on changing the pump, might as well go for the electric. I just put a stocker back on. If you want something a little wilder than the crane cam, the GM 847 is also good and doesn't kill the driveability of the car: PN**** DURATION LIFT (1.5)LIFT (1.6) LSA 12370846 222 230 .509 .528 .543 .563 *112 12370847 232 242 .539 .558 .575 .595 *112 The 846 listed above is very similar to the Crane 305. Many of the F-Body guys end up upgrading from the Crane to the GM.... Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Your Car is Slow Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 Electric WPs serve many purposes. 1. it wont cavitate at high rpms as its always running at a constant rpm and isnt driven off the timing assembly/cam of the motor anymore. 2. Allows you to seal the rear of the pump where most LT1 pumps fail and begin to drip coolant/water onto your Opti causing premature failure 3. allows you to wire up a switch to turn on both your fans and wp while the car is off to cool the motor much more quickly during downtime (between races etc). and for 150 or so bucks..its a worthwhile mod..although not a power increasing one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love-my-V8-280Z Posted April 20, 2004 Share Posted April 20, 2004 I looked into upgrading my LT1 and just could not spend the money on a cam for the HP return. I would spend the money on the LT4 upgrade. If I remeber it was $1800 for 150 HP. It seemed if I was not happy with the stock 270HP this would be the best HP per dollar upgrade. correct me if you disagree, most of you have a lot more knlodge than me. So I would save the $500. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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