choice of Z year?

[Guest Anonymous]

Hey guys. Im new here. Alot of people over at zcar .com said that this would be my mecca for the answers to my questions. Please allow for my ignorance when answering these questions. Here we go. I have a 93 300ZX Convertible. I have to sell it(getting married/lost huge money in stocks)but my furture wife said that in one year I could endeavor to take up a z/350 conversion, which is a mouth watering experience that I've been waiting for. I've got the tools. My knowledge is average motorhead and I don't mind exploring new territory. I purchased the book from JTR. That being said..

1)Which Z year would you recommend for the conversion?

2)Where is a good place to get the motor?

3)What mods would you recommend before installing the motor?-12 sec 1/4 mile

4)What transmission and Auto or manual?

5)How much should I budget above the price of the engine and car?

6)where would I go to find the car?

7)what should I look for when buying the car?

8)Any other improvements needed i.e.suspension brakes?

9)Any other advise?

[Guest jdllaugh]

By the way, I haven't followed any of my own advice. Like my mammy said when she caught me smoking her cigarettes: Do as I say, not as I do!!!

[Pop N Wood]

Do a search on the archives. There have been some VERY long threads discussing this one. I lost my old bookmark file or I would give you the link.

 

IMO you really can't go wrong 240 or 260 or 280. They all have their plusses and minuses.

[Guest Anonymous]

Thanks for the great info so far guys. Hey!, does anybody know for a possible buyer for my Z and how bout someone who started this project but needs to unload it?

[Guest jdllaugh]

See the For Sale forum. You and the Rick-Man need to hook up. He's selling his Hybrid in San Antonio.

[QWKDTSN]

I'd rather have a 240Z. It looks twice as good on the inside and out. I don't understand how they managed to screw up the taillights, bumpers and dashboard when 'modernizing' the Z for '75. I can understand the bumpers because they had no choice, but the later dash and taillights are FUGLY!

 

just my opinion It's lighter and you can always throw in a cage for extra stiffness.

[RPMS]

Aaw, come on Nion, tell us what you REALLY think!

 

I too like the cosmetics and light weight of the early cars, but I like the mechanics and solidity of the later cars better.

 

With a late 280 you get the R200 differential, doors that are easier to get to close solidly, a bit less cabin noise, better retractable seatbelts, a better but less easily accessible fusebox (IMHO) and an more well integrated A/C system. Yeah the bumpers are clunky, but MSA's aero II kit pretty much eliminates that.

 

In short, if you're going to make a daily driver and you value a bit more comfort over a bit more performance, I'd suggest the 280. If you're going to make a full out race car, go with the light weight of a 240. Or do what I did and get an early 260. Nobody looks at you funny if you say you're going to slice up a 260.

 

"what's the difference between an onion and a 260? Nobody cries when you cut up a 260."

[inZane 240]

I kind of like the bastard child of Z cars. There won't be too many 260s left to chop up in the near future.

[DavyZ]

James brought up some good points, but let me share this bit o'pinion with yew:

 

The 280Zs tend to be newer and have less problems (read: rust, wear, etc) then the 240Zs do. If I could, I would have built up a 280Z in heartbeat, but smog laws here prevent extreme modifications. The 280Zs, at the very least, feel more solid then the 240Z. The door mechanisms are better (IMO), and so are the window mechanisms, etc. I have taken apart both doors, and I liked the 280Z door much better. After going through several 280Zs, I have to say that the fit and finish is better than the 240Z IMO.

 

Weight can be an issue, but I don't think a 280Z would have any problem moving out with a V8 under the hood. The 280Z is quieter, more comfortable (although some may argue this), and they feel more solid at speed, possibly due to the added weight? The 'frame rails' on a 280 extend back farther then they do on a 240Z, although ultimately with big horsepower you'll need some additional stiffening. Check out Pete's site for great info.

 

As far as the styling between a 280 and a 240, well, the bumpers are cleaner on the 240Z, but that is really about it---they look VERY similar in every other way (don't nit-pick, guys)

 

Whatever you do, buy a rust-free car. I didn't, and it took me years to find the 'right' car that I can now cut up.

 

Davy

[inZane 240]

Whatever you do, buy a rust-free car.

If you lack welding skills, I would consider this the most important factor when looking at buying a Z car. The holes in my floorpans are so bad I could put my foot through the largest one, and to make it worse I dont know how to weld. Its gonna cost me some major cash to get them fixed. So I too cannot stress enough...buy a RUST FREE Z car. And if you only see a little there is most likely more.

[fl327]

i like 280s myself. thicker guage steel everywhere, comfier, fuel injected, and you can get a 75-78 for a lot less than a 240 and most of the time in better condition due mostly cause they are younger, but somtimes you can get a really nice 280 for the price of an "ok" 240

i would swap bumpers off first, i really dont like 280 bumpers. im not a 240z guy anymore, gimmie a 280 any day.

[Guest Anonymous]

280

[Moridin]

I don't know how much you have to worry about emissions in Texas (I do have an opinion on this one, but I don't think it is appropriate here), but the 240Z will work just about anywhere with a V8. If you want the lightness of the 240 with some of the added stiffness of the 280, get the 240 and PDK's strut braces. Awesome set of stuff.

[Guest eric-z]

I would get a 240z because it is the lightest (I believe it is from '70-'73). to answer alot of your questions you might want to get familiar with the search (at the top right of the page... search is in blue), it will answer many of your questions.

-eric

[Guest jdllaugh]

The answers to your questions are all very debatable, but I will take a stab at this just for grins.

 

1 -- 77-78 280z. Strongest, best built first generation body.

2 -- Find a running donor with a bad body and good motor/tranny. Or go with a GM crate motor and a good rebuilt tranny.

3 -- Cam, intake, carb, headers. If bucks allow, performance heads.

4 -- 700r4 auto or T56 manual. Auto for daily driver and drag racing. Manual for autocross and road racing.

5 -- Cost above the price of the car and motor varies dramatically. Say $2k+ for paint and body; $1500 for brake and suspension upgrades; $??k misc.

 

6 -- Southern California or the desert Southwest. E-bay, Bargain Post

 

7 -- Look for a reasonably straight body with NO RUST. Good Luck on that one.

 

8 -- If you plan on performance driving, plan on suspension and brake upgrades. They can come later after the car is up and running, though.

 

9 -- Be prepared to spend a couple years and $5-$10k on this project. Have a roomy garage and a VERY understanding significant other. Don't be shy about asking for help. If you're the kind of person who leaves projects half-done, don't even start.

[pparaska]

James laid out some good answers.

 

1) is very opinion oriented. Some like the "stiffer" 280Z (not so sure it's that much stiffer) and some, like me, prefer to start with the lightest car possible and make stiffness modifications that most likely take it beyond any stiffness gain the 280Z had over the 240Z. A not-too rusty 240Z is not exactly a flexible flyer, and if it's a street car you're after, it will be plenty stiff. Less weight = better handling (unless it's TOO flimsy) and also better acceleration and braking for the same equipment.

 

Plus, the 240Z just looks better, IMO.

[Guest silverbullet]

Hello scoob1 just had to throw my .02 in: as for #s 2-8 I couldn't give you much advice because I am still a hybrid wanna be, actually I couldn't even give you an educated opinion on #1 as I have never had a 240 or a 260, but I can tell you my experience with my 77-280, I LOVE IT!!! It is in my opinion warm enough in the winter and when the a/c is working cool enough in the summer, it is not to loud, seems to be stiff enough when I throw it around the corners and if you look hard enough you can still get one with no rust like I did(you might have to pay a little more though )but like Jim P. said you can't go wrong with any first gen. Z and personally I don't think there is any real noticable difference in how the 240-260-280 look and if you don't like the 280s bumpers you can always do something about that, I think on Hyb.Z I am a minority of one in that I was originally looking for a 280 because I like the crash bumpers and I can't see where there would be that much difference from the extra weight if you are going to have a rip snortin 400+ hp sml blk in it, remember it is still a 3000lb - sports car, I'll get off my soapbox now but that was just an opinion from someone who has driven a 280 as his daily driver for 10 years this month and put 100,000 miles on it(top that anybody) without much going wrong with it

[Guest Anonymous]

I had mixed thoughts about the crash bumpers on my 280,but when I went to take them off and realized how heavy they are,there's no way there going back on.I looked into the fiberglass copies of the 240/260,and found that the rear one will have to be widened 3/4 inch to fit.In addition to making brackets of course.Has anyone done this to their 280? I know it will look like a hodge podge, but were talking at least 40lbs off each end,and nothing else is OEM anyways.

[Corzette]

I just wanted to chime in. If you want to see what bad floor pans look like...go to my site and view the first album. I did a total replacement with Zinc metal. It was a PITA to say the least, but well worth the effort. I paid about $50 in materials and nothing in labor, but it would have cost big bucks Im sure.

 

Corzette

[Guest Z-rific]

I also think a 280 is the way to go. A little stiffer and a much stronger rear end, which you will need for the dramtic HP increase.

 

If you pull the bumpers, bumper shocks, and brackets, you'll drop significant weight. Pull that carbon canister and some other unneeded misc stuff and you'll lighten the car a ton.

 

I found my engine at a salvage yard. They had several 350's, and cleaned the engine up and painted it for me. But I didn't do a rebuild like you are planning. (Yet.)

 

If you're looking for big HP, you have 3 options. Build it yourself (only if you know what you're doing), buy a crate motor or have s shop build you one. Edelbrock makes crate motors built to different specs and are guaranteed.

 

To get a Z in the 12's, you're gonna spend some cash. So a crate motor may be the way to go. Also plan on stronger springs, new polyeurothane bushings everywhere, major wheel/tire upgrade, etc.

 

What I'm doing is getting the car running first with minimum engine upgrades (headers, manifold, carb, ignition). Then comes suspension. Meanwhile, I may buy a 350 block and begin building a stout motor. And if it takes a year or so, I still have a real fast car to drive.