steve260z Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 T-Bone, Just got the 36s. Off Ebay for thirty bucks from a guy in Alaska, of all places. "Came off a racecar".....I think I can count the number of racecars in Alaska on one hand. Anyway, only blasted around the neighborhood for 5 minutes. Only time I had but great power! Very, very noticeable. I'll make a longer drive tomorrow............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Steve, Based on the chart below, it seems 32, 34 or 36 would have a small influence on air flow (so performance). It's good to believe it still makes a difference to move from 34 to 36. If you don't know what to do with your 34's, I would be interested Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Ya, I saw your chart a few weeks ago. Assuming the tuning goes well with the 36s I'll set you up with the 34s. steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 I drove it some more this morning. It certainly has more power and actually runs smoother but, it will fall flat if I go WOT below 2,500 rpms. Other than that its a better running weekend car. I still need to do more tuning. Only have the carbs kinda sync'd at this point. Motor is under 100 miles and need to re adjust the valves as well. Head had a valve job so, this certainly is not definitive at this point. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 (edited) Great for the 34's!!! There's no rush either on my side I'm still breaking in the engine (800-1000mi since rebuild) so high rev and high power can wait a little! Regarding your bog, you're running an usually setup with F2 E-tube & 60f8 idle jets. At the beginning of this thread, zredbaron has made some test with O2 curves & different e-tube (F2 & F11 if I recall). A friend was running 55f8 jets in his L28 with poor results. We have switched them with 50f9 and the car has become very smooth. __f8 idle jets are leaner than __f9. Edited June 9, 2013 by Lazeum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Well, I haven't fully researched the jetting set up. Actually, I told the guys at Top End my complete motor specs and they suggested the jets. I do have 55F11 idle jets and F2 E-tubes on hand. What would you suggest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bone028 Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Hey Steve, a F11 idle jet should be slightly richer than a F8, but not quite as rich as a F9 as a lot of other people on Hybridz seem to run (FYI, I use a 55F9, might switch back to a 50F9). However, I'm not sure if a 55F11 idle jet will be richer than a 60F8. An F2 emulsion tube should be about right given its range is for 450-575cc's. Regarding the switch from 34 to 36 main venturi's...thats really interesting that you saw such a difference! Which is awesome btw. Could you tell me more about how it "felt"? I know the butt dyno lies sometimes, but how did it feel? Like a very noticeable difference? Like much more top-end at the expense of low-end? Any descriptors of how it felt with the 34's in comparison to the 36's would be appreciated. And nice work on the ebay deal! $30 is super cheap!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Best way to describe would be a free-er reving smoother engine with another 10-15hp. For example, in 2nd gear under hard acceleration I get more hood lift with the 36s. The motor feels stronger and more aggressive. Funny thing is from 5K on it feels about the same. Little smoother but not more powerful. I was thinking the top end would see the greatest difference. Also didn't expect the motor to run smoother either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bone028 Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 HAHA damnit Steve. I just purchased a set of 36mm chokes. I was happy with the 33's and I was already losing traction with 33mm chokes on 245/55/15 Dunlops...hopefully my experience will be similar with the change to 36mm!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Awesome!! Whats your engine build? Unfortunately, I'm still getting traction on smaller tires..... Did you post it previously? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bone028 Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 (edited) Standard stroker build: F54, P90 head, L24 rods, KA pistons about 10.5:1 compression ratio with a 470 lift 270/280 duration cam, 280ZX distributor with MSD 6a, header, exhaust, electric fan, etc. R200 3.7 LSD rear end. My order for the 36mm's should come in on Thursday, so I'm hoping to do quite a bit tuning this coming weekend. I ended up paying $85.50 including shipping via PierceManifolds ebay store. Their ebay store is probably 25% cheaper than their website pricing. Edited June 9, 2013 by T-Bone028 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 (edited) For info, I'm running 40DCOE, 32mm chokes, 45f9 idle jet, 45 accel, 0 bleed, f11 e-tubes, 120 main & 180 air. If I remember correctly. Head is done by Rusch Motorsports with Rebello "street" cam, stock flat top bottom end with correct gap to take advantage of P79/P90 quench. Engine runs really good with no ill effect, no matter what I do with it (except maybe floor it at 1000rpm in 5th gear - but who does it?) My ignition system has made the engine runs also much better than old dizzy. I'm just running out of air above 5500rpm so I need bigger chokes (I also need 45DCOE but it is another story ). Since you're not using same e-tubes as I do, not sure what effect could have __f8 idle jet on your combo but I had bad luck with them on other cars I've tuned, all with f11 e-tubes. I'm quite sure e-tube has no to very little effect on low revs but I cannot make a conclusion without trying. I have no clue about __f11 idle jet. Best way to know, would be to look at Weber manual, check f11, f8 & f9 design and analyze. It's easy when design is the same (f8 & f9 are only having one diameter hole change) but when you start having different number of holes everywhere, it gets tricky. Edited June 9, 2013 by Lazeum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Yeah, that's strange. Certainly cheaper than the $23 bucks on their site. My cam is .480 lift and 274 degree. ss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZGhost623 Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 (edited) Well I am super close. Im thinking maybe another size up on the pump jet and I'll be all set. Its kinda funny, there is a half second delay when full pedal press at stop, and then all hell breaks lose. WOT is still right around 13. But it will pin you in your seat like no other now. First time I have ever really experienced this. Hwy driving now the AFR is right around 13 as well now. Overall Im very close, but not sure I can fix that last problem. Not being in anyone elses Z (top-secret Duraggs car) I have nothing to really compare against to see how much better/worse off I am. If the grin factor plays a role followed by a holy shiz, then I think Im there. I did notice the car does NOT like stop and go traffic when its 110 out tonight. I was around the middle of the M on the stock temp gauge until I got going, then dropped down to onto the "E" in temp when moving on the freeway. 36 Choke 145 Main 180 Air 70F9 idle F3 Tube 55 Pump jet 00 Pump Bleed Edited June 11, 2013 by AZGhost623 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Those are huge idles. Drop down the orifice size and to a smaller air bleed hole (not sure what F-number that would be). That should lean out your cruise mixture. I recommend Keith Franck's hypojets. They are way better at fuel metering than the Weber ones, plus they're tunable - it's like having 4 jets in one. Going through the process, are now learning the differences between a "running" setup, an OK setup, a good one, and a great one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZGhost623 Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 (edited) Hey Leon, Yeah there big, not as big as Duraggs tho. I went up on the idle because of cruise on the freeway. With barely a pedal press, I was way lean, but WOT Im 12.8. So I think the main jet is good now on the freeway its not leaning out on cruise anymore, Im just trying to dial in the rest of it. The bigger pump jet also played a huge role too. I think I might need to go up further to get rid of that half second delay. I really wish I had another Z with triples to compare against to know where Im at. The 1/2 second delay is only from stop or slow cruise from what I remember. If I can get a good baseline, Ill check out the hypojets. At 20$+ a jet its an expensive learning curve and I want to make sure im right on the money. Edited June 11, 2013 by AZGhost623 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 The reason I recommend hypojets is because they're tunable (that 4-in-1 thing) and Keith will exchange jets. I don't think Weber jet distributors do that, AFAIK. Hypojets really wake up the car, especially on the low end (combine with his e-tubes and it's even better). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bone028 Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Leon, when you say "wake-up the car", do you mean the response below ~2500 RPM? I find it feels like the main fuel circuit is where all my power is (VTEC just kicked in Yo), almost like thats when the cam comes alive when at WOT...but I'm wondering if that has to do with the idle jet/progression. I guess its hard to explain. Best example, nail the throttle at 1500 RPM in 1st gear, car doesnt buck and it smoothly accelerates, but the tires start breaking loose around 2500 RPM for me. When you say wakes up the car on the low-end, in your experience did you find the hypojets to increase the low-end butt-dyno power delivery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Leon, when you say "wake-up the car", do you mean the response below ~2500 RPM? I find it feels like the main fuel circuit is where all my power is (VTEC just kicked in Yo), almost like thats when the cam comes alive when at WOT...but I'm wondering if that has to do with the idle jet/progression. I guess its hard to explain. Best example, nail the throttle at 1500 RPM in 1st gear, car doesnt buck and it smoothly accelerates, but the tires start breaking loose around 2500 RPM for me. When you say wakes up the car on the low-end, in your experience did you find the hypojets to increase the low-end butt-dyno power delivery? Once you've floored it, you're on the main circuit. The only thing that can help there is a proper emulsion tube. The hypojets make the car more tractable and efficient at lower RPM. The butt-dyno feeling is one of more "crispness" and quicker throttle response. Frankly, I've only run the hypojets with Keith's e-tubes so I can't exactly comment on how they feel on their own, but Zedyone Kenobi (or something like that) on CZC got hypos recently and posted his thoughts on that forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZGhost623 Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 TBONE do you have an AFR gauge? It sounds like your jetting is off. The AFR gauge is key in figuring out whats going wrong (too lean or too rich) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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