Guest 8UrVtech Posted July 2, 2004 Share Posted July 2, 2004 Ok, so i want to do a V-8 Z conversion but i dont know which Z to use. I want to use a 240Z because there lighter and with the V-8 swap there nearly 50/50 weight distrobution. What are the othere differences between the modles and whats the difference between a 280Z and a 280ZX? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
labrat Posted July 2, 2004 Share Posted July 2, 2004 The earlier 240's are lighter and have inferior rear diffs (r180) while the later model (ZX's) are heavier by about 500 lbs and stiffer. Most of that weight is in bracing in the undercarriage. The rear diff is also stouter (r-200) and in a ZX model, there is no need for the JTR style mounts, as the engine compartment is about 3" shorter. Just bolt spacers to motor mounts and bolt to crossmember. Anyway, do some searches, as this is just the tip of the iceberg (do you want digital dash, etc.) Bill PS, when all was said and done, I use an 81 ZX. Heavier and harder to smog in cali, but stiffer and better built for the swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted July 2, 2004 Share Posted July 2, 2004 Pick the body style you like and do it. It can be done in all of them, just that some of the requirements and equipment changes. That is what this site provides - a way to do it in any of the body styles. PS - if you don't know the difference between a 280Z and a 280ZX you need to spend a LOT more time using the search button and learning about the cars before you ever consider modding one of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaleMX Posted July 2, 2004 Share Posted July 2, 2004 Just remember to do alot of research first, then look for a rust free, western state Z. I know that the 78 280Z with a 5 speed (not a ZX) came with a r200 rearend. The 280's have a bit of a stronger chassis than the 240's. I'm using an LS1 conversion from Johns Cars. I am trying to avoid strengthing the frame rails by using a triangulated front strut bar, and a roll bar in the rear. Even though I have a R200 I have decided to put in a R200LSD that I got on ebay a while back. This is a great site. Search and read then come back with questions. That's how I have figured out what I need to do. Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted July 3, 2004 Share Posted July 3, 2004 Pick the body style you like and do it. I totally agree with that statement. If you get a 240Z because you like the body you will just have(dont have to but I would recommend it if you like being able to open your doors! ) to add some strut bars, sub frame connectors and maybe a rollbar/cage. It really depends on how much power your going for. Incase you didnt know...... the 240,260, and 280Z's are the 1st generation Z's and the 280ZX is the 2nd generation. If you go with the 1st generation 300ZX(Z31) or the 300ZX(Z32) then you will have to do a lot more research as those swaps havent been done nearly as much as the 1st gen Z's. They can all be done its just a matter of what you like and want........and how much $$$$$$ you got! Guy Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 8UrVtech Posted July 5, 2004 Share Posted July 5, 2004 Well, money is not a problem i mean im not a rich prick im only 17 but my friends dad has been around chevy V-8's since he was my age and he can get me a rebuilt 350 for $700 and a used T56 tranny for about $1000. He's in the salvage and restoration field and can hook me up. I also can get a cage put in by a friend of the family. So that wont be a problem. I know the basic differences between the cars but i was curious to the fine details like rear ends and the cars road racing ability's. You see i love cars the handle as well a power but you uasually can have both. I just want a V-8 to be abled to eat up some Turbo VTech. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted July 5, 2004 Share Posted July 5, 2004 240Z (S30 Chassis) 1970-1973 Very much lighter than its brethren, and not as stiff. A stock 240z weighs 2355lbs give or take. This is the best place to start if you want the ultimate in power to weight ratio. It can be as stiff as the later cars with the addition of a cage and other bracing, but still be lighter. 260Z (S30 Chassis) 1974 The ugly duckling, but combines some of both the 240z and the 280z. Big crash bumpers are the negative side. (can be removed to save weight) It's lighter than the 280z though, and the dash, center console and heater controls are the more functional and modern 280z design. A very good V8 cantidate IMHO. 280Z (S30 Chassis) 1975-1978 The S30 chassis is getting heavy by this point. Beefier rear end in some models, thicker sheet metal, crash bumpers, more sound deadening, less interior room. With some restyling/lightening the 280z can be brought down from it's ~3000lbs curb weight to as little as ~2600lbs. More chassis stiffness than the earlier cars. Also had the desireable vented hood in 77-78, and a nicely baffled gastank for EFI applications. 280zx (S130 Chassis) 1979-1983 Bigger, heavier, lots of creature comforts. These were nearly luxury cars at the time. 79 & 80 models were lighter, as later years had T-tops. (which nearly always leak, and new seals are outragously expensive) Beefier differential, options like digital dash, talking lady, cruise control, climate control, etc. etc. etc. Rear suspension is changed from a chapman strut to a semi-trailing arm design. Disk brakes all around, and front brakes are vented and quite a lot better than in the 280z. 280zx are still hovering around the 3000lbs mark in stock condition, with the 2+2's weighing more. Likely more work for the V8 swap, but the result is more civilized and has more creature comforts. A good choice for a daily driver if you want a bit of 'plush'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeper-Z Posted July 5, 2004 Share Posted July 5, 2004 as for the post before, the rear diff. of the 240z can be replaced with those of later models. as said you may want to stiffen the chassis with the earlier models. if you are just looking to eat up turbo civics you don't even need a datsun for that. a nice little 5.0 stang can handle that no problem. but if you love datsuns, sbc power, and want to tinker with your car than this is it. please use the search function here, and search around the net for good information on the z's and ask yourself, am i ready? you also have to remember that when building a project that the calculated money that you will spend, will almost be way less than you will need to spend to get a running car. you've also have to figure in what is more available, finding rust free early z's is pretty hard and may cost you. -steven m. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 8UrVtech Posted July 5, 2004 Share Posted July 5, 2004 Thanks for the info, I have one car alredy a good ecno box but i need some real power. LoL hell yea a 5.0 would rip a hole in a Civic or teg but i like the near perfect weight distrobution of V-8 Z's. I have a big drive way and plenty of room for the swap. I've taken 2 years of Auto Mechianics at a local tech school and already ordered the JRT manual before buying the Z so I am pretty serious and want this car very badly. What is a good price on a 240Z with no rust, fairly good interior and way faded paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted July 5, 2004 Share Posted July 5, 2004 Price depends where you are. In my mind, pretty much any price is worth paying for a rust free Z, as they are rare in this neck of the woods. A rust free Z BARE SHELL goes for about $2500 around here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 8UrVtech Posted July 6, 2004 Share Posted July 6, 2004 Well I'm on the East Coast not really sure of the prices, there is a 260Z for sale about 25 min away from me that i havent gone to look at yet but hopefully i can go some time this week, i'd really like to wait for the JTR manual before buying one.Any suggestiongs on which model to buy? Personal Opinions? or any comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwik240z Posted July 6, 2004 Share Posted July 6, 2004 Well I'm on the East Coast not really sure of the prices, there is a 260Z for sale about 25 min away from me that i havent gone to look at yet but hopefully i can go some time this week, i'd really like to wait for the JTR manual before buying one.Any suggestiongs on which model to buy? Personal Opinions? or any comments? Where are you on the east coast? I am building an LS1 240Z. The 240Z is the lightest of the Z cars. I chose a 240Z because they are the 1st Z cars and I like the looks of the early Z's the best. Also they are the most collectible (my opinion) of all of the Z cars. I too am on the east coast and I spent almost a year to find a rust free Z for my project. I saw alot of cars that were promised to be rust free but on inspection they had the typical rust problems. As to how much to spend, that depends on your budget and what condition you want the car in when you purchase it. Do you care if you need to do bodywork and paint? Does it have the performance mods you want? A cheap Z in running condition can run $1000 to $3000 but I would bet it has rust if it is on the east coast. If you are willing to travel out west a decent rust free driver should run $3000 -$5000. Take your time and look for the car that will make you happy. Go to a Z club meeting and look at the different models and see what appeals to you. A 260Z-280Z and the 280ZX will probably cost less than a 240Z in most cases. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 8UrVtech Posted July 6, 2004 Share Posted July 6, 2004 Yea, i like the 240's the most as well,but 280Z seem more practicle and my budget is 5000 but i'd like to spend only about 3500, maybe 4000 on the car, my biggest concerin is the rust. I've worked in a auto body shop while i was in tech school and had to take rust holes out of a car. Its a pain , and adds someweight to the car. Interiorand everything else doesn't matter as long as it's driveable , but like i said this it not a daily driver its a project and weekend car. Oh and i live in New York. Does anyone know if 280Z will handle just as well as 240z with the swap? and hows their weight distrobution? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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