Guest 2slo4u Posted November 3, 2004 Share Posted November 3, 2004 By the time this thread ends (if it ever does ), we'll be able to buy head units with built in 50watt rms by four channel @ .005% distortion level, 128db signal to noise ratio preamps and over 500 damping factor! Car audio is ALL subjective. EVERYONES' ears are created with different response curves so every system will sound different to each individual. You can get rock solid high spl sub frequency bass, crisp mid range, and sparkling highs rivaling high end home theatre systems in a car, just takes a little extra skill and planning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hanomon Posted November 3, 2004 Share Posted November 3, 2004 A word of caution when installing amps on the passenger's side floor, Watch were you drill. My son hit both the break and fuel lines while mounting the amp. With a JL-500/1 watt sub amp under the driver's seat pushing 2 Audioban 12" 1000 watt subs. Another JL-300/4 under the passenger's seat pushing 2 pairs of 6x9" eclipses' front & rear, fully Dynamated, What road noise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest listen_silent Posted November 6, 2004 Share Posted November 6, 2004 I know a little bit about sound, so I'll throw in my $.02. A brand that me and my buddy's have found to be reliable is Kenwood. They used to have crap for speakers, but in the past three years, they've really upped their quality and sound production. I'm running 1369ie's till I get my boston's in and they kick ass. Excellent mids, good lows and good highs. They will seriously outperform anything sony, ma, blaupunkt, autobahn, pioneer or panasonic throw at you. If you want really tight, beautiful bass, Diamond Audio is a good brand. Not too expensive, and yet I'd take some DA's over a JL W7 anyday. On the high note of sound, Boston Acoustics is by far the best way to go. Extremely expensive, but you really do get what you pay for. Heck, the BA's I'm getting are 800w RMS 6X9's... Yes, that's 800w RMS! On the sub side of things, I think that Earthquake makes the best subs. They will last forever and there is not a sub on the market more powerful (unless you want to pay 1k+). They commonly break their enclosures. Something to do with the patented design... Anyways, I've heard two 10's pumping and I was stunned. They were so loud, I had to walk away a good distance. Hopefully I've been of some help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moridin Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 double post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moridin Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 By the time this thread ends (if it ever does )' date=' we'll be able to buy head units with built in 50watt rms by four channel @ .005% distortion level, 128db signal to noise ratio preamps and over 500 damping factor!Car audio is ALL subjective. EVERYONES' ears are created with different response curves so every system will sound different to each individual. You can get rock solid high spl sub frequency bass, crisp mid range, and sparkling highs rivaling high end home theatre systems in a car, just takes a little extra skill and planning.[/quote'] Actually, Panasonic just came out with a head unit that does 50Wx4 RMS and 60Wx4 peak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 As stated many times already...this is a truly subjective issue. No two pair of ears hear sounds (or fidelity) the same. It's the equivalent of saying which color looks the best on our cars.... That being said, I have had tremendous 'success' with Kenwood and Clarion (both of their higher end lines) for head units. Love separates, in terms of speakers, and don't believe big subs are necessary at all in cars. When some a-hole is behind me in traffic with his bass cranked up so high that MY windshield is vibrating, I want to get out of my car and beat him with a big Maglite; but, alas, can't afford any more Police 'activity' in my 'file'. Also, don't waste your money on Dynamat (again, as already stated). There are many cheaper, and equally effective options out there. Do a search here on 'Brown Bread' and 'Peel N Seal' (various spellings) to read extensive discussion. There are some outstanding commentaries on this thread regarding the technical side of 'sound'. Fidelity is not always accomplished equally with separation. In your small interior space of your Z, do you want to hear the two channels distinctly separated, or do you want to hear the fingertips moving across the frets of the guitar? Again, very personal. Most audiophiles are purests in the sense of separation, while musicians are purests in the fidelity aspect of sound reproduction. Granted, an oversimplification/generalization for brevity. Bottom line is you have to decide what is most important in YOUR listening experience. Start with what type of music do you listen to most, and at what volume? My .02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rytherwr Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 Hey folks, Lotsa great info in the other posts, some accurate and some not so accurate and I thought I would not get into the techie stuff and provide anyone who wants to check it out with a source that will knock your socks off....literally! My credentials include being a hands-on sound engineer both home and automotive. The two couldn't be more different in the final execution of a killer system, however, the basics of sound reproduction and audio theories and engineering are equally critical. That being said, check out the following: Daniel L. Ferguson: Ultimate Autosound: Your guide to heaven on wheels Car stereo speaker projects illustrated How to design and install high performance car stereo If you want to learn as well as come up with some killer sound, check 'em out! I have done many an install using Ferguson's methodologies and designs....I'm a 'tight' bass guy and you can sure put a system together of any description using the knowledge and experience portrayed in these handbooks. 'Nough said....hope ya'll have at it! Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rick458 Posted December 4, 2004 Share Posted December 4, 2004 are there any structural concerns with mounting the amps on the toolbox behind the seats? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted March 2, 2005 Author Share Posted March 2, 2005 I'll jump in with an update. I've finally gotten my windshield to where it doesn't leak so the car goes in the shop for the interior/sound system upgrade next week. This is going to be a huge redo. I'm taking the interior of the car from brown to black and red - and if it's not a hard plastic part it will be leather. That includes the sunvisors, headliner, seats, console armrest, door panels, strut tower covers, hatch panel, etc. The carpet is a high end charcoal color with red flecks called "Chivas Regal". The stereo will basically be all Alpine. Head unit, CD changer, power amplifier, component speakers up front (mid range on bottom front corner of doors with cross-over to tweeters on the A pillars) and a custom installed sub in the back on the side opposite the expansion tank designed to reflect off the hatch. So much for the conservative approach. I've fallen into a group of talented folks in these areas so I'm able to stay outside the boundaries of the corporate mark-ups and keep this just below a kings ransom. I expect it to be done by the end of March. I'll post some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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