hanomon

Found a emissions diagram on shbox.com for that solenoid, so looks like we're ok with the set up as is.

Got a 94' corvette LT1 in a 75' 280 & redoing the wiring harness. Not running any emissons so we removed the EGR vacuum solenoid. However there is another vacuum solenoid on the passenger's side. The service manual says it's for canister purge? The Mitchell diagram lists it as "Evap canister purge" off the ECM's Blue clip-pin #10 dark green wire. I have it connected to the stock Datsun vacuum line to the charcoal canister from the fuel vapor collector tank. My question is; what actually triggers that solenoid or is it even necessary? Could we just remove it and run our fuel vapor canister straight into the intake manifold?

The stock 78' 280Z fuel pump put out 45psi when we verified the output pressure for our 94' stock (24lb injectors) LT1 engine was not running so, no vac to the regulator.

I've met the shop floor manager a few years back when I was living in Oceanside. His name is Paul Hedrech. My buddy Brian went to school with the guy, who turned us onto the shop that supplies them with their super high out put alternators 150+apms. in a very small housing. Nice engines if money i$ no object.

I have a 94' too, Got the vats programed out with the Tuner-cat software, even picked up one of those vats by-pass modules. Mine did the same thing died after a few seconds. Turned out to be the throtle position interface module.

Nothing better than killing an afternoon with my 24yr old son in the garage on the Mutant~Z project especially now since he's moved out. I've got a core group of gearheads that are very knowledgeable. You guys here have been a great source of help too.

Mutant Z

Hot-tank $50.00 or less. Some of them have gone by the way side due to increased operating cost. What they do instead is put it into a high pressure booth and spray it.

Yes, the ignition switch was in fact on, fuel pump kicked on for prime then off a few seconds later then I selected the "Read PCM" from the tool-bar.

Got my PCM back from being reprogramed, set-up the tunercat program established com-link (no problem) click on toolbar, select "Read PCM" from the menu options (that was the only option available/highlited) It began the process with the warning Not to interupt the program, after approx 30-45 sec. pause, the Red circle w/white "X" and the "Can not read PCM" So, is my gut correct in assuming that I may have purchased a defective unit to begin with? Dose anyone out there know of a way to test the health of the PCM before I cough-up $117. for the new unit? GM part No.16181333

Looks great. You mentioned the approach angle, may I suggest (if you need to extract/reinstal) raising the rear of the car. That made it so much easier!

Like the legendary VIN-No. fairy, I've herd tales told of smog pirates, who would pass a Shwinn (for a King's ransom).

A note of caution when changing refrigerants from R-12 to 134-A. I've read where systems that aren't THOROUGHLY flushed prior to introducing the new liquid, are prone to compressor pump seal failure due to a suspected incompatibility between the chemicals. I'm no chemist so, I can't get into detail however, reports are common of compressors giving out after approx 1yr of the change over, in systems that wern't completly cleansed.

Venting the hood will also help let off some heat.

There should be a NPT plug (3/8" or 1/2") just above the oil filter. I believe it's for the oil cooler option. Cutting a large hole into the fire wall, may compromise the structrual integrity. The fire wall adds alot of strength in that area. In fact, I welded up some of the (factory stamped) holes there.