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74 260Z wiring


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I searched but came up empty on this one.

 

I removed all of the "extra" (interlock, transistor Ign., voltage regulator, etc) wiring and components from my early 260Z and am wondering what to do with the end of the fat white wire that went into the shunt. One end hooks to the starter and then to the fusible link. Where should the other end go? My guess is that I could hook it up to the white-red wire at the alternator. I am using an internally regulated GM alternator. JTR does not seem to cover this.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest slyfontaine

Hello. I also have the early 260 and am having problems hooking things up as you. The JTR book does not show anything remotely the same really for a 260. It just covers the 240 mostly. My engine won't turn over at all and there is no power coming into the ignition switch or anywhere else inside. There was two wires going to the starter and JTR only told us of 1. I don't know what to do with the other and maybe the neutral switch has to be bypassed. I am going to try these things tomorrow. I really can't afford to send it out to get it fixed or buy a painless kit. I will let you know if I hit the jackpot. Catch you later and good luck

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Guest slyfontaine

[/u][/b]Well I did what I wrote you the other day and nothing happened. No power coming in the cab still. I have no idea. A lot of people say in this forum is that if you have an IQ of more than 90 you should figure it all out. I guess I am borderline or even considered stupid. I have no idea so I am going to send it off to the shop to get someone to fix it. Good luck on yours though. If you figure it all out let me know. Hopefully I haven't sent it off yet. Later

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Thanks for the reply guys. I got ambitious and removed the voltage regulator, shunt, interlock and transistor ignition wiring from the car. It is a lot of wires and relays etc. I'll also replace the ammeter with a volt meter - that's why I took the shunt out.

 

I measured the resistance across the shunt where the fat white/red wire and the fat white wire (connected to positive starter terminal) used to plug in and found the resistance to be zero ohms. That tells me that they should probably be connected together.

 

The white/red wire that connects to the alternator output would then be connected to the positive terminal at the starter through the fat white wire. The white/red wire also supplies power to the fuse block (after passing through the fusible link and the ignition switch). I'm using an internally regulated GM alternator ('73 camaro).

 

I have not put the engine in the car yet as I wanted to get the wiring sorted out first but I guess I'll go with my gut and thow it in. Hopefully the fire won't fly.

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Boy, isnt that the truth. I will need to be careful.

 

Thanks for the links to the schematics. I got frustrated with the ones in the Datsun manual so I had reprographics in our engineering department blow them up 400%. I now have them covering an entire wall in the garage. Chasing down circuits is now a great deal easier.

 

Dropped the motor and trans (Muncie) in for a trial fit tonight. I got the mounts from JTR and it looks like a factory fit. Still need to beat on the tunnel to clear the shift linkage. I may actually get this beast on the road by the fall.

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Guest subdermal

If you have photoshop, one trick I found helpful is to create new layers and trace over the different circuits in various colors on the new layers. Then by viewing only the base level and the highlight level for the circuit you're interested in you make it much easier to isolate the wires you're looking for from the rest of the maze.

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Guest slyfontaine

You have to bypass the shunt wires. I mean splice them together to make one complete rotation back into the cab. I did this on my 260 and got power there at the ignition switch and the heater and the headlights. I can turn over the engine now. But can't seem to have the headlights come on or the controls for the heater to work or the wipers. That will be tomorrows dilemna. I am quite happy I figured out the ignition problem and how to get power into the cab. I will keep you posted[/b]

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  • 2 months later...

I did a search looking for info on swapping a GM internal regulated Alternator into a 260Z and found this thread but no answers yet. Has anyone successfully done this? If so, can you please share your wisdom and experience? I really don't want to burn up starters, alternators or worse by trial and error!

 

As others have stated, the JTR manual doesn't address the 260 even though they show a 260 with all the extraneous wiring removed! The big question is the 12ga white wire that JTR says comes thru the firewall (from the AMP meter) and goes to the starter, doesn't exist in the 260. There's only an 18ga wire that comes thru from the AMP meter. They apparently went with a smaller gage wire to the meter and added a shunt on the right wheel well that has the 12 gage wire but it only goes to the voltage regulator which I want to get rid of!!

 

Any help would be appreciated!!

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Yea, I've read that site's info and it doesn't really work for the 260. Besides, I don't want all that extraneous wiring hanging out like the pics show. I really want to do it similar to the JTR recommendations for the 240 where all you have is the 12ga W-R wire to the Alt and the 12ga W wire to the Starter. Trouble is, there is no 12ga W wire coming thru the firewall in the 260, it's 18ga, which will not work as the battery recharge circuit. And it won't work to replace it with a 12ga as that circuit isn't big enough to handle it either.

My guess is that both the Starter and Alt need to be connected to the 12ga W-R wire but I would like someone to confirm that that's correct before I start with the wire cutters!

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I did get it figured out. I just got my car on the road last weekend and everything appears to work.

 

The heavy gauge white wire originally ran from the positive terminal on the starter to the shunt where it hooked up to a red/white wire. I cut the plug at the shunt, ran the white wire to the output terminal on the GM alternator and the other end to the starter. I ran the cut end of the red/white wire to the positive terminal at the starter. The positive lead from the battery also naturally connects to the positive terminal at the starter.

 

The starter terminal gets a little crowded, but I simply envision it as a bus bar that enables you to connect battery power to other critical circuitry in the car. The red/white wire formerly connected to the shunt provides power to the fuse block. It works and is pretty simple, though I have to admit that I was puckered up pretty tight when I first connected the battery.

 

The car is pretty awsome, though it runs out of gears pretty quickly. I'm running a Muncie four speed, 'cause I had it on the shelf.

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Brian,

Thanks for the link! you're right, they do have some useful stuff there. I'm ordering the manual for sure. I can probably find all the bits and pieces I need locally and stick to the original wiring color code. It'll make it easier on the next mod!

 

Hubert,

Thanks again for the details on your success. I'll feel a lot more confident this weekend standing in the engine bay with wire cutters and soldering iron!

 

Cheers!

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  • 3 years later...
  • 2 months later...

OK. So I've read a butt load of schematics, diagrams and pesonal "How to's" But here's what I need to know, Precisely....

 

When you guys "Removed the Shunt, Safety interlock and other items" What did you do???

The shunt is basically a run thru that allows the small gauge (18ga) wires to tap the larger wires and be fused. The shunt says "FUSE A3" on the top of the body. I contains 2) 3 amp fuses.

 

Where do the small gauge wires go. I'm going to swap the stock alt for the 60 amp internally regulated alt. I think I get the Just of the wiring but have read 3 different ways to wire the VR plug for proper operation.

 

So what wiring do I need to do on the VR plug??

What or how do you remove all the Safety Interlock B.S. and still have everything work. Should I just run a wire from the starter wire on the ignition switch to a relay, then to the starter? Would this basically by pass the Safety interlock.

 

I also plan on new seats and seatbelt equipment and these both have S.I. parts that help the interlock system work.

 

Sorry to repeat a lot but I need straight answers in plain unbroken english.

This is for a 2/74' 260Z

 

Dave

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  • 7 months later...

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