Solid axle rear end info

[rustrocket]

Alright, i've spend the better part of my morning trying to find some detailed information on how to swap in a 12 bolt chevy solid axle into my 73 z. I've found some pages, many with old pictures that no longer display, as well as out-dated website links. Is it possible that somebody has a complete writeup (even not so complete, anything!) of how to swap a solid chevy rear into a Z? I'd like to replicate Mikekz's setup. I remember a while ago somebody had a very detailed description of how to do it with a corvette IRS, if you remember what i'm talking about, i'd like something as straightforward as that. Thanks for the help guys.

[Mike kZ]

This is the best write up on my rear end: http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=7763

[grumpyvette]

Id like to point out something before you you get to involved in installing a chevy 12 bolt rear assembly

 

the chevy 12 bolt rear while stronger than many other choices is not the best choice in many cases,

the FORD 9" is far easier to work on and set up gears in, and the DANA 60 is while heavy almost indestructable once correctly set up with performance components, BOTH are stronger and BOTH have a BETTER axle retention system

I destroyed 3 PRO BUILT 12 bolt chevy solid rears in my race cars before I smarted up and swapped to a PRO built DANA 60, after that I had no more failures, now ILL grant you the car had in excess of 700 hp 700 ft lbs of tq and weighed about 3100 lbs but I would NEVER again run a chevy 12 bolt rear

[rustrocket]

Mike Kz, Thanks for the e-mail and the post, your writeup was almost exactly what i've been looking for.

 

Grumpyvette - thanks for your input. I've always been a little biased towards chevy, that was the main reason for the 12 bolt interest. I dont plan on pushing anything close to 700 hp, however i'll do a bit more research on the ford 9 inch and the ease of install before i go ahead and make my final decision.

[JMortensen]

I don't think Grumpy's criticisms are entirely fair:

 

Moser 12 bolts come with 9" housing ends, which are made for bolt in axles. Couple that with a 33 spline axle and an Eaton posi or a spool, maybe a forged 1350 yoke and a TA cover with main cap braces and all of Grumpy's 12 bolt complaints should be taken care of.

 

Stock 9" housings aren't that strong, both on the axle tubes and the 3rd member housing itself. For the 9 you'd need a nodular 3rd member, 33 or 35 spline axles, the forged yoke, a stronger pinion support, etc.

 

You can build a 9" stronger than the Chevy no doubt about it, but they both have to be built to handle big power. The 9" is much easier to set up, but it has the disadvantage of the extremely low pinion height. I think I'd prefer the 12 bolt, unless I was running 1/8 and 1/4 mile, in which case the 9 would have the huge advantage of being able to swap 3rd members to gear for the different track length.

 

Can't argue with the Dana 60 stuff though. That is one burly diff.

[datsunlover]

Not to 'rock the boat' or say it's a bad thing to do ... exactly..... but why are you wanting to swap in a solid rear, when the Z came factory with a decent handling/well thought out independent rear suspension? (weak r180 diff aside..) I had an 85 RX7 with a chev 10 bolt rigged in (1st gen RX's has a four link rear sus. from the factory, just had some brackets welded on the 10 bolt) for the V8 swap i did. It was only a crusty 305 (cheap, got the car drivable) and probly had about as much power as my Z does now (I6, open exhast, SU's, ZX dizzy).. a little more torque maybe, but.. I'm just thinking about it like this.. my Z is 10 years older than the RX was, and it drives/feels way better with the independent rear..

 

Just curious man, don't mean to offend.

[Guest racerzs]

I have had a 9 inch in our car going on 15 years. It has had a tremendous amount of runs down the track and a fair amount of street driving during this time. I am on the second ring and pinion as the first one bailed on me about three-four years ago. I do use a factory Nodular center section, but the pinion support is a stock cast iron piece. It is equipped with a 35 spline spool and strange axles that have been in the car since 1990 as well. I have made the comment in the past that if I had it to do over again I would use a 12 bolt instead. That probably seems to be a stupid comment given the success I have had with I am using but, it was a cluster... getting it all to work out in the beginning. I had bought a small bearing case and big bearing spool. At the time I wasn't too up on the ford stuff (didn't want to be) and ended up with this wild looking bearing that everyone told me may create a problem as it was a real thin surface area. So at first, every time I let the brake go I would pucker up in the seat. That instinct faded in a short time and I forgot all about those small bearings until the ring and pinion went some 12-13 years later. I went back into the third member thinking I would upgrade but, everything looked great except the broken teeth on the gears. I bought some new bearings and reassembled with a little steeper gear set. Having said all of this about the 9 inch I am still partial to the 12 bolt just because it's Chevrolet. My brother until his misfortune http://www.ratsun.com/kens/kenswreck.htm with his Malibu was having just as much success with his 12 bolt. When I built our car I was concerned with strength. The input I was receiving from others at the time was that the 9 inch would be much stronger. For me I have had no complaints, but I think I could have duplicated the internal parts in a 12 bolt and been just fine.

[rustrocket]

Datsunlover - the reason for the original idea was because it seemed much cheaper to buy and custom install the solid axle with disc brakes than it was to do the r230 swap and do aftermarket disc brakes. Also, i assumed it would give me a better wheel selection.

 

No offense taken.