80LS1T Posted December 25, 2002 Share Posted December 25, 2002 Ok I am starting to get together all of the engine parts that I will need to complete my engine rebuild of my 93' LT1. What I want to know is what do I need to be able to use non-self aligning roller rockers in a 1.6 ratio? I am going to use the LT4 "Hotcam" and hyraulic roller lifts. Also what size of push rod should I use? I am new to the engine rebuilding thing and would appreciate any help! Thanks again, Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denny411 Posted December 25, 2002 Share Posted December 25, 2002 All it should require is a set of pushrod guide plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted December 25, 2002 Share Posted December 25, 2002 Guideplates, and I'd go for 7/16" ARP studs, but the hotcam doesn't really 'need' it, I just like a little overbuilding. You can use regular SBC guideplates, the pushrods (7.2") are hardened stock up until I believe 1996, I used Trick Flo 7.2" CMolly for about $86 or so. Don't forget some springs for your .525" lift, HOTCAM springs work but they are marginal, especially if you want to rev it out a bit, they were originally for the plain old LT4, some people say they bind with the HOTCAM meaning they are very marginal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted December 25, 2002 Author Share Posted December 25, 2002 What is the stock stud size? Also are the studs screw in? I am having my heads ported and polished right now so I can't look at them. The guy (Jeff Ondo of www.ondoperformance.com) building my heads is going to install springs and all that so I am not worried about that since I told him what I was doing to my engine. Oh yeah and what hyrailic roller lifters would you recommend? Thanks, Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted December 25, 2002 Share Posted December 25, 2002 They are screw in, 7/16" base and 3/8" top, instead of a full 7/16". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted December 25, 2002 Author Share Posted December 25, 2002 So I want to get the full 7/16" ARP studs then, right! Thanks, Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 25, 2002 Share Posted December 25, 2002 get the regulaer sbc studs, they will not be full 7/16 only the base, the top where the rocker arm goes will be 3/8, if your using non-aligine rocker use guide plate, if using self-aliging rocker dont use them. either way make sure you get harden push rods, make sure they specify "for use with guide plates" very important. and make sure you tell them it for an 93 lt1, with a roller cam and lifter, ( the pushrods are shorter compared to the regular flat tappet, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted December 25, 2002 Share Posted December 25, 2002 IMO, if you are going to run the HOT cam, just get the kit for $500 that comes with springs, pushrods, roller rockers and the cam. There is no reason to run the guide plates instead of the self-aligning rockers. Also, rocker stud flex is really a non-issue on a hydraulic cammed motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted December 26, 2002 Share Posted December 26, 2002 I think Mike C hit the nail on the head. Just buy the kit. My friend did and it is a ass kickin set up. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted December 26, 2002 Share Posted December 26, 2002 For $459 its hard to beat the value. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted December 26, 2002 Author Share Posted December 26, 2002 Well I hate to brake it to you guys but I will only be buying the cam. Jeff Ondo of Ondo Performance will be putting the springs in when he does the valves. So now you guys really got me confused! Since I am not going to buy the kit what should I do about my roller rocker situation? I already have the nonself aligning rockers on the way. So I guess I will be going with guideplates and hardend pushrods... Right?! Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted December 26, 2002 Share Posted December 26, 2002 I'd send them back. Buy the kit then deliver the springs to your head guy and have him NOT charge you for springs and use yours. IMO, if you are going with guide plates, you should mill the bosses down further in order to restore the overall stud height. This adds more cost and complexity and might require the head tapped to a further depth. Send the non-selfaligners back, buy the kit and talk to your head guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted December 26, 2002 Author Share Posted December 26, 2002 Ok but what about the binding? Like Mudge said? Are the kit springs any good? I dont want to have to worry about my valve train going if I rev it a little too much. Thanks, Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted December 26, 2002 Share Posted December 26, 2002 I would use other springs, but you can try to use them if you wish. With only .525 lift its not like you need alot of spring, but they weren't designed for the HOTCAM in the first place and are marginal, some people can use them, and a handfull cannot. I also know of someone who got a cam with a single flattened lobe, some of the Crane rockers have frozen tips within a few thousand miles, well thats just the quality of the parts in the kit. You will save $ with the kit, if you can afford to be picky as I was, then go with whatever parts suit your fancy. Why not buy a better cam though then? Are the heads not ported? Expect to pay $169 for the cam alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted December 26, 2002 Share Posted December 26, 2002 Again, the pushrods are hardened stock, and will put up with mild springs just fine. As for full 7/16" or not, that is up to you, I was anal with my setup so I got ARP 7/16" and non SA Pro Mag rockers. Just look for 7.2" pushrods and your set, they are not 7.8" like SBC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted December 26, 2002 Share Posted December 26, 2002 How could the springs that GM specifies for the HOT cam not be right for the cam? GM uses the same Crane rockers on the LT4 with 100k mile powertrain warranty. I agree, however, if you are NOT going to do the HOT kit, don't do the HOT cam either. There are better grinds but plan on spending $250 for an aftermarket cam. The kit is an excellent deal for a street car, but like Mudge said, if you can afford anything else, your engine builder can suggest a cam best suited to your application. Usually when looking for info on a message board (and it most peoples situation) money IS an issue and best bang for the buck is important which takes me back to the kit... I only know of 6 or so people who have done the kit, and none of them have complaints, but I do not do the F body boards as Mudge must. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted December 26, 2002 Share Posted December 26, 2002 Check goautocenter.com. they are a engine and parts wholesaler in Dallas, Tx. they have some real good deals on roller cams they pull from the crate motors that customers buy and want cam upgrades or changes in general. They use to have hot cams pulled that were new for 125.00 if I'm not mistaken. My friend bought his ZZ4 from them and was really pleased. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted December 26, 2002 Author Share Posted December 26, 2002 Ok well i posted before and I dont remember who said it but someone said that I should just go with the hotcam because if I go any bigger that I would have to do a lot of computer tuning??? I dont know how easy it is to tune a 93' PCM since you can't use LT1 Edit. Can anybody back this up? Thanks, Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted December 26, 2002 Share Posted December 26, 2002 You are going to be using Tunercat yes? If you dont tune it it will still run sub-optimally. I've only worked on one car with a hotcam and that did have a mail order tune on it (not speed density, it was a 95), and it ran pretty well once we got the timing chain on correctly (he had it installed one tooth off, barely ran). Tunercat + prom burner, and run whatever cam you want, if your not going to tune I'd go with a 210/220 or 211/219 or similar, and even then you would know you'd be giving up power everywhere because of lack of a proper tune. Bang for the buck I dont disagree that the HOTCAM kit beats all hands down, it cost me about twice as much to set up my valvetrain the way I wanted it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted December 26, 2002 Author Share Posted December 26, 2002 Ok I think I know what I'm going to do now! I am going to use the HOTCAM kit for now and if I dont like it I will upgrade later to a bigger cam! I really appreciate all the infomation that I have gotten on this subject! Thanks again, Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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