Schlasken Posted August 13, 2004 Share Posted August 13, 2004 just got my car back from the guy who built my rollcage, i`m very happy with the results. what do you guys think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsun327 Posted August 13, 2004 Share Posted August 13, 2004 looks very nice so i take it you looking to make some power with this car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted August 13, 2004 Share Posted August 13, 2004 Looks good for the most part, I am just not sure about those doorbars being so close to parallel... I suspect this is supposed to be for a street car and to be easy to get in and out of...? If so, it's a pretty crazy street car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted August 13, 2004 Share Posted August 13, 2004 It looks good but, as always, I do have a couple suggestions: 1. A couple verticals between the door bars will give them some more strength. 2. I'm not sure who you're goign to race with in Norway, but here in the US (with SCCA) you'll need a diagonal brace in the main hoop on the same plane as the main hoop itself. My roll bar has the exact same X brace on the rear supports and that was legal up until about 2000. Now SCCA requires the main hoop diagonal. 3. The lateral bar going from the bottom legs of the main hoop should be welded to a plate on the trans tunnel. It appears that the bar is welded to the tunnel on its side. At a minumum ask to have some gussets added so it doesn't pop loose in a side impact. Just some suggestions for improvement, the cage is fine as is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted August 13, 2004 Share Posted August 13, 2004 That's some serious battery tray rust! Little moist up there? Just funnin' with ya. Nice cage. You might check your seat clearance with those boxes welded in at the seatbelt pockets. So, race car, street car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schlasken Posted August 14, 2004 Author Share Posted August 14, 2004 thanks for the suggestions johnc i will look into it. the cage is made to make the requirements of a racingseries for sportscars here in norway, but i`m not sure if i will join it or not. atleast not for a couple of years when i get the time and the money the car will get a rb26dett, wich i`m picking up this weekend, and the suspension and brake mods for it to be a very fun car to play with on trackdays and maybe even some 1/4 mile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted August 14, 2004 Share Posted August 14, 2004 Really like the cage. My main hoop attaches to the floor with a similar but smaller box where the seat belts mount. I assume the you car is going to be an automatic, because it looks like the tube going to the front strut tower would interfere with the clutch master cylinder. Also, I agree with johnc about the bar that goes across between the main hoop legs. You could really strengthen that by adding bars that go from the center (top of drive shaft tunnel) to the plates on the rear strut towers. As stated by others, I am not criticizing. I like the fact that every cage that I've seen posted by this group is unique. Please post more pictures as your progress continues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted August 14, 2004 Share Posted August 14, 2004 I think it is one of the better cages I have seen posted on this site. Would like to know if it passes the Katman test Guess you won't be mounting the battery in the traditional spot. Sounds like a hell of a project. Keep us updated on your progress!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted August 14, 2004 Share Posted August 14, 2004 If this was an all out race car, I'd add another diagonal door bar from the node just below the windshield (dash bar) to the mainhoop/lower door bar node. Egress becomes a total beeeeach, but stiffness would improve dramatically. All things considered however, this cage is better than a lot of the ones out there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schlasken Posted August 14, 2004 Author Share Posted August 14, 2004 I assume the you car is going to be an automatic, because it looks like the tube going to the front strut tower would interfere with the clutch master cylinder. no its going be manual offcourse the clutch sylinder fits without a problem. plenty of space 8) i just picked up my rb26dett, so i`m kinda excited about the project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 14, 2004 Share Posted August 14, 2004 Anyone have an opinion as to the placement of the X piece in the back. I've always seen those pieces hit the top of the strut towers, not the front. Since there is also a bar in between, it probably doesn't make any difference, but that struck me as weird. Also, might just be the pictures, but it looks like really thick plate used to weld the bars to the chassis. I love the way it is tucked up so tight against the roof. I think that is even tighter than RC's. Good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted August 14, 2004 Share Posted August 14, 2004 but it looks like really thick plate used to weld the bars to the chassis. Building a "box" for the main hoop legs is a good way to make the loads go into the main hoop in a more direct fasHion. Long angle cuts on the bottom legs of the main hoop sometimes cause the shearing failures that NASCAR has seen in the last few years. When you build a "box" for the legs of the main hoop to rest on, one of the big concerns is punch through if the car goes over. The sides of the box can punch through the floor pan, the main hoop legs can punch through the top of the box, or the top of the box can punch down between the sides of the box. So, when building a "box" you need to make it out of thicker materials then the mandated mounting plate minimum of .080". .120" wall box sides with a .187" thick top plate is a good choice. The size of the top plate also needs to kept as small as possible and the "box" itself needs to be built as low as possible in the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katman Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 Ha! The KATMAN test. I agree, one of the better cages I've seen in a non racing forum. Agree too with JohnC's suggestions, especially that a single diagonal in the plane of the main hoop would be mucho bettero (lighter, stronger, lower CG) than the X brace from the top of the hoop to the rear strut towers. I also prefer my front lateral bar to be just above the tranny tunel, not up near the windshield. This does a better job of keeping the footwell intact. Looks well executed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc's240z Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 Looks great. Well done, depending on what you do for a dash solution your front crossbar could interfere with your guages if you are modifying your factory dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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