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Stock LT1 Head and Cam #s


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If you feel like it, there are over 200k miles folks, and I did my heads/cam swap at 114k, and I know others in the 150k area who are just doing heads/cam.

 

Most people seem to think that things are dead past 100k miles which is so frigging untrue, if you take care of things. "While your at it" though, sure, rings/bearings... if you feel like it.

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Guest JAMIE T

Mudge is right. I did heads/cam on my LT1 with 106K on the odometer. I'm just now doing the clutch at 109K. I have LT4 HOT cam kit and I ported the heads myself(VERY NICELY DONE). My wife drives it everyday, and it makes 345rwhp.

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100k miles was the lifespan of a motor in the 60's, but with advances in lubricants and fuel injection, motors should easily go 200k miles. Especially with a 100k mile timing chain replacement! My '96 SS motor has 30k miles on it. It has CNCheads.com heads on it and a crane cam, but in the Camaro it dropped a valve and the guy built a 396 with aftermarket heads. The head has been completely repaired and reassembled. Good deal for me! That page has the flow numbers for my heads, 267 at .500 lift and exhaust 83% of intake. Excellent. It is going into my convertible, but the 60k mile cop car motor I have will someday find a home in the Z. :D

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I totally agree, guys. These motors should last a good long while, but then again, I don't have any history on the motor. No telling how the previous owner treated it. i have run it and it doesn't smoke, and seems to rev cleanly.

BUT.....if I have the heads off (plan to get a used pair and port them) and the front cover is off (replace the cam), I might as well re-ring the damn thing...no?....and if I have the pistons out, I might as pull the crank....and if I have the crank out, I might as well put in a stroker crank....no?.....and if I put in a stroker crank, I might as well put in some nice H-beam rods...no?.....and if I am putting in some nice new rods, I might as well put in some nice light pistons...no?....Just while I'm at it!!! malebitchslap.gifmalebitchslap.giftwak.gif

 

Schmokin!!! somebody stop me!!! malebitchslap.gif

 

Tim

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Guest Anonymous

LOL Tim, while you are "at it"........ ceramic coat the screw on tips of the spark plugs,put some kind of protecting coating under the manifold to withstand 200,000 degrees, locate some special aviation fasteners in grade "50" or higher for the valve covers. My old "fatboy" project has slowed since I am tying to locate some buffing compound to increase the spin capability of the aluminum drive shaft. The added bonus is that if all the mirrors get broken in a natural calamity, I can jack the "Fat Boy" get under there and shave in my reflection off the drive shaft. Happy New Year.

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Can anyone provide the flow numbers for a stock (94 Z28) LT1 heads and the specs on the stock cam?

I can't seem to find them anywhere. I want to do some desktop dyno playing, but the application doesn't have any selection for the LT1s.

Thanks,

Tim

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Stock rods are fine if your staying NA, if your looking at 550+ HP then you will probably want to consider something else. Not that I'd recommend it, but there are 383s with stock rods.

 

If the heads are still on the car measure your compression/leakdown and see how it pans out smile.gif

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Mudge,

Leakdown and compression tests are likely plans. I think that am just 'jones-ing' for some mechanical work since spending the last few weeks doing solely bodywork :mad: . It's slow going and I hate bodywork, I'd much rather be tearing into and engine or something!! Really just want to be able to start planning for more HP (playing with DD2000) because I know that after I get this thing on the road, the stock LT1 hp will start feeling weak after a while!

Ah, the endless pursuit continues!! malebitchslap.gif

Tim

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