Guest zfan Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 Never use the standard hammer in type oil pick up. I just fried my sbc 383 because the pick up came loose at the drag strip and my oil pressure went to "0". By the time I caught it I had fried 2 rod bearings and severly discolored my forged I-Beam rods..they really must have gotten hot. The crank hopefully is ok but will know tomorrow. Rods if salvageable will need to be resized. Crap, 20 part costs alot more to fix. Never again will I use a crappy press in pick up. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 I have heard of this more that a few times, what causes the pick-up tube to come out? Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaleMX Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 It's a press fit. Those have always scared me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody 82 ZXT Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 I just fried my sbc 383 because the pick up came loose at the drag strip and my oil pressure went to "0". Sorry to hear that! How are they done if you don't have a press in for a SBC? Obviously I've only been a L6 guy so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 You can purchase one that presses in and at the same time it has a flange attached to the pick up that bolts to the pump. A no brainer for me from now on Rick B., aka Ricer Rick lost his in his sbc powered Z but caught it in time to keep from killing his motor. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 #7 and #8 rods were sporting spun bearings but to make matters worse when I pulled the heads I found the valves had contacted the pistons on the intake side We clearanced everything so I just don't know what went wrong. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 OUCH! Mike, sorry to hear about that. I think it was Grumpy that warned about that a while ago. I think I'll learn from your mistake and do it differently the first time!! Will you just rebuild the 383 or will you go in another direction? Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mas28O Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 Mike, I have always put a weld on the pick up tube. I have never trusted the press in pick up for my motors. What are your plans on the motor? I hope that you get it up and running again. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 I am taking it to the shop today to have the crank turned and the rods resized and balanced. The internals were not to bad. I am purchasing a oil pump with the press in tube but also has a bolt in flang that keeps the pick up in place at all times I am using forged four valve relief flat top pistons, they are ok. I think the problem with contact of valves came from the valves being 2.055 and not 2.02 intakes. We checked clearances so I am not sure..Live and learn Should be back together and on the road by the end of next week. If matters had been worse I would seriously look into a LS1 They can make so much power with so little work. If I can milk this motor for a year then I will look for a LS1 and rebuild it and stroke it to 383 with a cam change and intake as well. That wouls surely be a beast. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 77vegasz Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 Jegs offers a retainer for about $8.00 that will prevent this from hgappening. It clamps around the pick up tube and then bolts to the pump body. I have used one for years and never hap a problem.Its a cheap and effective fix. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 heres an old post that covers most of that info if you read the LINKS!!!! "Is it as simple as draining the oil, dropping the pan, unbolting the old pump and bolting in the new and putting the pan back on?" YES AND NO! MOSTLY NO! yes you drop the pan and install a new pump, but you MUST BRAZE the pickup to the pump AFTER first making sure the pump pickup is correctly possitioned to sit 1/2" MAX to 3/8" min from the oil pan floor , or you have a good chance of it coming loose eventually due to vibration,and you must remove the spring from the oil bye-pass circuit in the pump and replace it after the pump cools, you should make pre-priming the pump much easier by putting some moly grease on the gears before re-assembling the pump. adding a BRACE between the pump body and the pick up is a smart move also. fill the new oil filter with oil and the pan to the correct level and THEN turn the engine over with the starter without the coil connected untill the gauge reads pressure before starting the engine. its a good time to use a one piece synthetic oil pan gasket and replace the bolts with studs also. keep in mind a oil pump is only PART of the oil system and getting the oil back to the pan quickly is a good idea, so a windage screen, and a HIGH voluum BAFFLED oil pan is a great idea you might want to add at that time instead of just replacing the stock pan which is FAR from ideal for high rpm performance use!! the oil pump pick-up on a SB chevy pump is usually a friction fit tube inserted into the pump body with an interfearance fit, it has a tendency to work lose over time if its not brazed (welded) to the pump in HIGH performance applications with their higher than normal vibration levels and stress loads but before you braze it you must possition the pick-up so its 1/2" from the oil pan floor with the pump and pan installed, this is easily measured by placing modeling CLAY under the pick-up and installing the pan with just the 4 corner bolts to test clearance issues this is required because the tube can be rotated so that the clearace variers a great deal, if the pickup is closer than about 3/8" it can restrict oil flow, more than about 1/2" clearance and in some extreme cases with low voluum oil pans and it sucks air, if the oil levels low so you need it correctly installed once you get the pick up installed with 1/2" clearance to the pain floor get it BRAZED in that location to the pump body things you might want to read http://kustomauto.2.forumer.com/index.php?showtopic=276 http://kustomauto.2.forumer.com/index.php?showtopic=312 http://kustomauto.2.forumer.com/index.php?showtopic=423 http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/ DON,T BE SCARED OFF ON REPLACING THE OIL PUMP JOB!! ITS a project ANYONE with minimal skills and a few tools can do if you take your time! it makes for a great first engine project you can get a local machine shop to braze the pick-up to the pump REALLY cheaply (under $10 or less in most cases) just use some model clay to determine the correct location/clearance in the pan http://www.melling.com/highvol.html I would strongly advise useing FOUR QUALITY JACK STANDS on a LEVEL conctrete surface thou!! I think youll find these very handy if you work on cars and don,t have a lift BTW the 12 ton stands are PREFERED as they have a MUCH WIDER BASE and EXTRA STRENGTH,(if IM GOING UNDER A CAR I DON,T WANT TO BENCH PRESS THE DAMN THING TO GET OUT FROM UNDER IT) how much is you LIFE WORTH,BUY THE ! THE 12 ton RATED STANDS they are MUCH MUCH safer than the 3-6 ton stands IF ONLY BECAUSE THEY ARE FAR HARDER TO TIP OVER IF SOMEONE ROCKS THE CAR! and they DON,T need to be extended to give room under the corvette! in fact they are the perfect height at the first notch when you place them on the frame at the 4 corners of the frame your NOT looking for the LIFT RATING NEARLY as much as the WIDE BASE, and STABILITY plus the extra safety just thier base to height ratio gives 2 Piece Set These super heavy duty jack stands will hold most cars and trucks safely over 2 feet off the ground. Perfect for repair work or storage. Height: 19-1/2'' to 30-1/8'' Base: 12'' x 12-1/2'' Weight: 68 lbs. THIS ABOVE IS RIGHT OFF THE HF WEB SITE http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=34924 second, thing is IVE used a set of four very similar 12 ton jack stands from NORTHERN TOOL for years, with no problems what so ever http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...19&categoryId=0 Torin Pair of 12–Ton Jack Stands 2 heavy–duty steel jack stands at one low price! Double locking pawl and tooth design for extra protection. Minimum height is 18 1/8in. Maximum height is 28in. In Stock Ship Wt. 63.0 lbs Item# 144872 Discount Price... $64.99 Sale Price... $54.99 110% Guaranteed Lowest Price! youll be getting them at a significant discount if they price match, which they should Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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