Mikelly Posted September 20, 2004 Share Posted September 20, 2004 I don't like it because it is NOT internally balanced... I've done a bit of research and I believe that if you are going to build a SBC, Build it internally balanced from the beginning.. Special thanks to Grumpy, Dave Williams, and Mr. Vizard for changing my mind on this issue, because 8 years ago I would have blown it off as insignificant... Not so.. And the cost isn't much more for the added balance of the assembly and it extends the life of the reciprocating parts... 8) Ben, My 93 GMC's crank was a cast factory steel crank and it came out in two pieces... This truck was a TBI 2 bolt main truck, with factory motor... When we pulled the motor, I was amazed when the crank came out in two pieces. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted September 21, 2004 Share Posted September 21, 2004 I'm with Mike. Internal balance is a good thing mechanically for the engine and also makes life alot easier and cheaper when fitting harmonic dampers and flywheels to the engine. External balance harmonic dampers under 8" can be found, but not as cheaply as for the internal balance setup. An 8" harmonic damper won't fit the Z with the JTR setback mounts - it hits the steering rack. BTW, that ebay listing has forged stuff that is overkill for your application. Not bad to go overkill in general except that you end up with heavier rods and crank, and that increases rotating and reciprocating weight, unnecessarily adding to bearing and crank loads. I'd buy the lightweight internal balance stuff with 6" rods. The 3.75" stroke causes additional cylinder wear with the stock 400 5.565" rod. The 5.7" rod helps some, but the 6" rod brings the thrust angles into the same range as a 350 with 5.7" rods. This can also make the engine quieter (less piston slap). 6" rods allow for lighter pistons also. The increased rod weight is easily offset by the lighter piston weight. So the 6" rod helps get the rod/stroke ratio in a better range for breathing at higher rpm (not enough to matter probably), helps with cylinder wear and piston slap, and makes for an easier balance job and lighter reciprocating assembly. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted September 21, 2004 Author Share Posted September 21, 2004 I will keep looking then! Thanks!! Did I mention everyone here is just...BADASS!!! Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted September 22, 2004 Author Share Posted September 22, 2004 Been Searching for a "KIT" that includes everything I need, which is everything but a block. Found this one on PMEracing.com CHEVY 383 6.000 STROKER KIT Triton Engineering's Chevy 383 Stroker will increase your 350/5.7L to 383 cubic inches at .030. This kit is for use with 1968-85 350 Blocks with 2 piece rear main and Stock valve Configuration heads. "Internally Balanced" You must use a 350 Internal Damper and Flex Plate / Flywheel Combination. Kit Includes: -SCAT "9000" Nodular 3.750 Stroke, Lightweight, Knife-Edged Crank. -Triton Engineering 4130 Forged I-Beam 6.000 Rods, with 3/8" ARP 8740 Bolts and Press Pin. -Keith Black (KB) Flat Top Hypereutectic Pistons. ( Optional Kit Components are Listed Below ) - (33832) - Retail is $ 945.00 Their price!! $715.00 (Pretty competitive so far!!) Optional Kit Components $ 75 - SCAT "Profiled" Knife-Edged Lightweight Crank Worth it? $ 10 - One Piece Rear Main Seal Crank WILL NEED THIS FOR SURE $ 265 - Triton Engineering 4130 Forged (Int.Bal) Steel Crank $ 365 - Triton Engineering 4340 Forged (Int.Bal) Steel Crank $ 40 - Bushed 4130 6.000 Rods $ 175 - Triton Engineering 4340 6.000 H-Beam Rods $ 32 - Keith Black (KB) Dished Hypereutectic Pistons NEED $ 233 - JE/SRP Flat Top Forged Lightweight Pistons $ 213 - Wiseco Flat Top Forged Lightweight Pistons $ 278 - JE/SRP Dished Forged Lightweight Pistons $ 272 - Wiseco Dished Forged Lightweight Pistons $ 25 - Dynagear Hi-Volume Oil Pump NEED $ 48 - Dynagear True Roller Timing Set NEED $ 90 - Hastings Racing Plasma Moly Rings Which Rings are needed? $ 115 - Hastings "Power-Flex" Plasma Moly "File Fit" Rings Overkill? $ 45 - Crank Adapter for 1986-Up Block What is this?? $ 90 - Billet Steel 153 Tooth 17lb Flywheel Need it $ 42 - Professional Products HP 6 3/4" 350 Damper Need it $ 124 - Professional Products SFI 6 3/4" 350 Damper Or is this better? $ 56 - Professional Products HP 8" 350 Damper $ 146 - Professional Products SFI 8" 350 Damper $ 105 - Triton Engineering Dual-Idler Gear Drive Set $ 60 - Detroit Gaskets "COLDSEAL" Racing Gasket Set Might as well or is felpro that much better? $ 48 - Clevite 77 "P" Series Rod and Main Bearings Is there a real diff?? $ 115 - Clevite 77 "H" Series Racing Rod and Main Bearings $ 60 - Triton Engineering SFI Approved Flex Plate $175+ - Balance Complete Assembly Will let my guy do it for 215 Pete/Mike/Grumpy/Others?, can you all comment on my parts questions and the over all kit? This looks like a ma-pa opperation. I like that I can get all this at one place. I am going to gather some parts numbers and do some comparison shopping but this seems like a pretty good deal.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted September 23, 2004 Author Share Posted September 23, 2004 OK, on Ebay (Racersoutlet) has this scat set up for $710.00 or so shipped buy it now! 5cc Dished Sealed Power Pistons $210 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7921923200&category=33623 Scat 9000 Internaly Ballanced Stroker Crank $190 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7921927136&category=33616 Scat 6" I-Beam Rods $226.00 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7921923816&category=33623 Looks like they have a good amount of good deals, what you guy's think?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted September 23, 2004 Share Posted September 23, 2004 Coulpe of comments here... Go with forged pistons if you can, and the prices quotes to upgrade from a SCat 9000 to a forged crank are decent... Overkill, but decent. I would also think about that Dynagear pump... Not a bad oil pump, but I'm going with the CANTON balanced pump/ pickup tube assembly to match the roadrace Corvette pan I bought for my 383. I don't think you want to scrimp on that pump... Just my opinion... Also, with all the stupid crazy deals out there, you might want to just look at a complete balanced shortblock... Shoot for a four bolt main or splayed cap assembled setup... The Ibeam rods are nice and light and if I had it to do over, I'd go with those, BUT now that I'm looking at TWIN TURBO manifolds, the added strength of the rods will come in handy! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted September 27, 2004 Author Share Posted September 27, 2004 Here is my parts list so far... Rotate Assy SCAT Crank/Irods-Arp bolts/Pistons-rings 1-91250-1 (KB Sylvolite) 1-91255-1 (Forged) Main Bearings Cleveite New Crank Bearings Std 829P Rod Bearings Cleveite New Rod Bearings Std 743P Cam Bearings Cleveite 1977-95 SBC Cam Bearing Std 290s Cam K kit Comp 276 cam kit with lifters, springs, retainers K08-423-8 Rocker Arms Comp Alum Roller Rockers 1001-16A Oil Pump Canton Std vol. Pressure Balanced oil pump 21-500 Distributor Crane Crane Electronic Distributor 270-1000-1501 Coil Crane Recommended Coil for above Dist ???? Carb Edelbrock Edelbrock Thunder AVS Carb 650 ED1805 or 6 Balancer Pioneer Internal Balanced 6.375 Dia 872002 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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