1 tuff z Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 peej, how did you attach to the rear strut towers? did you add any reinforcement to the tower itself? same question for the main hoop attachment points. thanks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peej410 Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 i made an 1/8in plate that goes to the top of the strut tower between the strut and the inside of the C pillar and i made a standoff from the floor that can be seen here http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/peej410/album?.dir=18fa&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drftn280zxt Posted October 5, 2004 Author Share Posted October 5, 2004 Tell me if this could be done. If you hve bars that goback and attach to the rear strut towers and also have a removeable strut tower brace going across. Something that is a little more aesthetically pleasing then a simple bar but would still and ridgity. Is this possible? peej410 - are your 1/8" metal plates weldd to the floor or are they bolted? Another question is what is the benefit of bolting a fullcage in a car if you cannot get the cage out of the car is first place? Thanks for all the feedback guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 Another question is what is the benefit of bolting a fullcage in a car if you cannot get the cage out of the car is first place? Mostly cost. Its something you or someone with general mechanical skills can do as opposed to having to pay a higher rate for a skilled welder. The roll cage manufacturer can also do a volume production run thus reducing material and process costs. Plus, you don't have to completely strip the interior, remove undercoating, and sound deadener so the cage takes less time to install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 FYI, I just got a price quote of $1200 for a 12 point cage (Through the Firewall and attaching to ALL strut towers & Footers sunk into the rocker boxes ala Mark Icard's car) in cromoly. Of course, I'm giving them a BUNCH of business for Jim's Scarab Pro Touring project, and I've been sending others to them, so I'm not sure how much of a price break they are giving me, but Cromoly in 12 point in 1 5/8th inch .082 thickness is pretty danred good I thought! Mike 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 FYI... .082 wall tubing (regardless of alloy) is not legal in any SCCA Solo1, Solo2, or road racing category - except for sedans under 1,500 lbs running in Prod or GT categories. .095 wall minimum for alloy at 1.5" OD. Also, if you're going to use alloy tubing, make sure the builder gets the certifications from the material supplier because you will need that to pass tech. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 John, I've got a sample at home, I'll have to measure it up... They have copies of the certificates at the shop from the supplier. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peej410 Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 Tell me if this could be done. If you hve bars that goback and attach to the rear strut towers and also have a removeable strut tower brace going across. Something that is a little more aesthetically pleasing then a simple bar but would still and ridgity. Is this possible? if you did a removeable strut tower brace then i would put a tube in the cage above the struts but thats just my preferance. for me aesthetics play little part in structural rigidity. peej410 - are your 1/8" metal plates weldd to the floor or are they bolted? if you look at the pics in that page there are no plates on the floor i made a triangle shaped box that the main hoop lands on. mike, 1200 sounds very inexpensive for a 12 point. i dont know if their hours are less but we just built a spec miata cage that was very extensive and it was absolutely our best spec miata cage yet (we always try to improve things.) it probably cost 2200 for the guy including the seat install which required modifying the transmission tunnel. our first spec miata cage can be found at http://www.tangerineracing.com/miata_cage_photos.htm this didnt require as much work as our most recent cage which recieved many improvements check out the rest of the page and u can see a bunch of the stuff that i used to work on oh and unless specified by the SCCA GCR or the customer (ie.120 wall not 0.95) we always run 1 1/2" DOM .095 tube. depending on the car weight and stuff like that. all of our tube coping is done with a 1 1/2" or 1 3/4" end mill in our bridgeport milling machine and not with one of those tube notchers. make sure to take good look at the the weld joints and such. i just spent this past saturday at limerock park here in connecticut watching my old boss chris (owner of tangerine racing and CFR) race and having looked at some of the cages in the cars i was horrified by some of the work. so be careful and do your research (not implying in any way that you havent already) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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