Guest Speaker Posted November 28, 2000 Share Posted November 28, 2000 i see all kinds of different conversion kits... and i have no metalworking knowledge except with a dremmel tool and so i'd be interested in them; instead of fabricating my own stuff... now... i see some of them only work with A/T... this will not work; i'd prefer a T56 6speed... whats the best kit with the best instructions that will work with a manual transmission? and also mount the engine back to keep the weight distribution as even as possible? i'm planning on using a chevy 350 4bolt stroked to 383... and a t56 tranny... and also my second question: is the t56 worth it? is it easy to install? or should i just settle with a T5 or something? ------------------ ------------------------ looking at a 240Z V8 conversion project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted November 28, 2000 Share Posted November 28, 2000 0) Welcome! 1) The first one is easy: Buy the JTR manual first, no matter which parts you buy. STAY AWAY from the John's Car's kit if you want it to handle the best. I'd think the JTR mounts make good sense, they're not that expensive. And he shows you how to make the rear mount or buy it from him. 2) World Class T-5 is fine as long as you don't make tons of torque and use sticky tires and you don't powershift, etc. The T-56 shifts very nicely and you can beat on it and it lives. Read Mike Kelly's tech articl on this site for how to do the T-56. Look in the Drivetrain forum and look at the recent posts - Chris has found a place in Washington state US that sells rebuilt T-56's for $1000. The parts to make it hook to the engine isn't cheap, especially if you go with the older two piece oil seal SBC. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 28, 2000 Share Posted November 28, 2000 Speaker, Welcome to the forum!! Pete is right, the parts to make the T56 are not cheap, even with the one piece rear seal engine the prices are about the same. I have yet to start my engine build and checked at a Chevrolet dealer to get some idea of what the factory replacement parts went for in comparison to Centerforce and McLeod. The factory parts are about the same price. With the exception of the Centerforce dual friction clutch which is VERY expensive, ~$700 if I recall correctly. If you go with an older two piece rear seal motor Centerforce makes a flywheel that will adapt and you can use the "standard" T56 specific pull style clutch. They make flywheels for both internally and externally balanced two piece rear seal cranks and the cost difference is only a few dollars. So, if you are building an internally balanced 383 with a two piece rear seal you would have to get Centerforce flywheel for an older two piece rear seal 350. And, of course, if you are building an externally balanced 383 you would want the flywheel for use with the 400 crank. I know McLeod makes the same type of flywheels but I could not find any information on their website and when I tried to call them there was no answer. McLeod's prices seem to be a little more reasonable than Centerforce and I understand many of the F-body folks prefer their clutches over Centerforce. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted November 28, 2000 Share Posted November 28, 2000 The Ceneterforce Dual Friction kit is $515... It is expensive! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 29, 2000 Share Posted November 29, 2000 quote: Originally posted by Mikelly: The Ceneterforce Dual Friction kit is $515... It is expensive! Mike I have heard the t56 is a pain in the butt to make fit in a z, good luck, and bring lots of bucks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 29, 2000 Share Posted November 29, 2000 One more thing. I have heard that the t56 requries modification. If you have no metal working skills you will run into problems. ------------------ "I feel the need, the need for speed!!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted November 29, 2000 Share Posted November 29, 2000 Ellobo, I have installed one in mine and a few others on this site have as well... You don't need to have metal working skills or have lots of dollars besides those needed to buy the parts. I modified nothing on my transmission, no monkey business with the skipp shift solenoid, or anything else, and mine shifts smooth, with no problems getting into reverse. I did make the mistake and destroy my speedo sensor by Taking Matt Millen's advice when I first installed the trans...Tinking I was eliminating the skip shift unit. I also did other things I didin't have to do like grind the cooling fins off the trans, and hammer the inside of the trans tunnel... I didn't know any better at the time and would do things differently the next time. There is no real myth to installing the T56 and it is a GREAT transmission and "strong like bull". It is expensive, as a used unit will run you about $1000, plus getting a flywheel and clutch kit for it... As I stated in my original article, Plan on about $2000 to make it work right. I did and mine works great. Not trying to flame anyone here, I just have personal hands on knowledge of the T56 and how hard it is to install... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted November 29, 2000 Share Posted November 29, 2000 Or you can get rid of a little more $$ and have a brand new aftermarket T56. $2100+ Has regular speedo hookup and uses the T5 bell housing and slave, clutch (stick to the center force dual friction). No rocket science to install either. 400 lb/ft as opposed to the stronger 450 lb/ft of some models. JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted November 29, 2000 Share Posted November 29, 2000 John, that aftermarket T-56 is enticing, but the bucks, well, that's pretty high. Just wondering why it's not rated as high as the F-body T-56. I'd bet it's because they went to a smaller input and/or output shaft to make it an easy swap. This is the story on alot of the differences in the rating between the Tremec TKO and the Tremec 3550. Just remember these cars are 1000 lbs or more lighter than a Viper or F-body. That torque rating really doesn't apply as you might think at first. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted November 29, 2000 Share Posted November 29, 2000 Pete, The F-body T56 w/2.97 1st has the same 400 lb-ft rating. I think the lower rating is based solely on the the 1st gear. You'll notice the lower numeric gears (1st 3.35=350 ft/lb, 2.97=400 vs 2.66=450) are stronger. (this is why drag racers often do their burn out in 2nd or 3rd, they can take the shock better when the tires grab) I think this is the only difference. I believe only the Viper was treated to better gear metallurgy. Still a 400 lb-ft rating is figured for what weight of car? Fast frog has probably one of the highest hp street Z engines (and supercharged engines almost always have much higher torque than naturally aspirated, his Z while under way will roll on wheel spin in 3rd!) his WCT5 305 lb-ft(?) has lasted for quite a while. Figure in the price of the T56 only fly wheel, clutch, bell housing, slaves, special pull style t/o electronic speedo, shifter (after market includes one) etc and maybe the price difference won't be that big. T5 parts are probably cheaper and way more plentiful. For me the peace of mind of new was worth it. How was that used one treated before you got it? Short of opening the case and knowing what to look for... Came from a perfomance car? Not knocking used, but with my my luck... JS JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited November 29, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Speaker Posted November 29, 2000 Share Posted November 29, 2000 so the stuff i read about hammering the tranny tunnel... i don't need to do that? mikelly; if you can direct me to your website... or any info you have done on yours that'd be cool yeah the motor i'm getting is a internally balanced 383... forged bottom end; cast crank... running high compression but a real overlapping cam... hoping to make at least 400rwhp if not more... its gonna be scary bad when someone pulls up thinking its a straight-6... then they hear the evil evil motor scream... high rpm V8s are cool ------------------ ------------------------ looking at a 240Z V8 conversion project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Speaker Posted November 29, 2000 Share Posted November 29, 2000 yes this is very true; IMO centerforce sucks big hairy donkey balls... i got several friends here in town that have burnt centerforces that should have been strong enough i'm goin with an ACT more than likely... as far as flywheel goes... i don't care... quote: Originally posted by Chris: Speaker, --snip-- reasonable than Centerforce and I understand many of the F-body folks prefer their clutches over Centerforce. Chris [This message has been edited by Speaker (edited November 29, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pauli Posted November 29, 2000 Share Posted November 29, 2000 fwiw, it seems that c5 z06 guys find the stock chevy clutch better than any of the aftermarket ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted November 30, 2000 Share Posted November 30, 2000 I think the hammering depends on your car. Mine is a 73 240Z and the reverse lock out solenoid rubs against the inside of the tranny tunnel. I had to do a lot of widening. And,IMO, trying to route exhaust piping under the slave cylinder is a pain in the butt! If youre going with the 383, make sure the damper clears the crossmember. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted November 30, 2000 Share Posted November 30, 2000 Yes you need yo do some hammering. Just part of the deal when "hybridzing" I was suprised how little I needed to do, 72 240. Biggest area for mine was for slave cyl. I studied a previous T56 swap and made some good notes. Nothing is even close to rubbing on mine. Part of an afternoon is all thats needed. Gets rid of the day's frustration Haven't heard too many problems with the Centerforce Dual friction clutches. Plenty around here with big nasty hp are doing fine. I'm suprised. JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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