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My 240SX rear IRS swap into my 240Z


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Sweet. so if i got aluminum hubs from a R32, they'd have Hicas arms, and wouldn't be cast-iron? I'd like to retain the hicas links so I can put an eliminator bar, but the iron hubs are a little weighty.

I'm confused...what's the point of getting a HICAS rear just to buy an eliminator for it? Sorry for the newb question.

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I'm confused...what's the point of getting a HICAS rear just to buy an eliminator for it? Sorry for the newb question.

 

If you have the hicas elminator kit, you have the capability of using the hicas control rods as adjustable toe links to dial in toe angle, whereas if the hub has no such provision, you have to find other ways to change it.

 

considering i'll be having a front and rear s14 suspension, i decided to make the most of it.

 

we'll see how it pans out.

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Ah, cool! To the original poster (or anyone else who wants to answer), you used a j30 subframe with mostly s14 parts on the rest of the rear end, with q45 hubs and axles...how much wider was the s14 subframe than the j30? Would an s13 subframe (which I've read to understand is the same design) be any narrower? Anyone have experience using the Skyline or Z32 subframes? I'm not getting a Velo Rosso kit for my Z, just good ol ZG flares, so I don't know if I could get away with a wheelbase that's as wide as yours. ;)

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  • 2 months later...
I'm doing this same swap just saving up for it. I measured from hub to hub to hub on my s14 and hub to hub on the Z. Just swaping it out will add 1" to each side. So in total it is 2" wider than the Z rear end.

 

-Ed

Which makes it pretty tight, unless you're gonna use flares : )

 

Here my R32 Skyline IRS - pretty similar to the 240sx...

tjockbreddare2.jpg

 

02_G.jpg

 

upside.jpg

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Looking very impressive Mull !!!

 

I did not know there was a 4 lug skyline. Am I seeing this correctly? I have a 89 GT-R rear drop and its pretty beefie (pretty much the same as the Z32, except it uses a R200 CLSD with the same axles as the Z32)

 

EDIT*** I read thru other post and determined I must have not got it right. You must be using some parts from models other than the skyline also.... that explains the 4 lug. Sorry :redface:

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Looking very impressive Mull !!!

 

I did not know there was a 4 lug skyline. Am I seeing this correctly? I have a 89 GT-R rear drop and its pretty beefie (pretty much the same as the Z32, except it uses a R200 CLSD with the same axles as the Z32)

 

EDIT*** I read thru other post and determined I must have not got it right. You must be using some parts from models other than the skyline also.... that explains the 4 lug. Sorry :redface:

 

Thanks! :) No, it's from the MONSTER R32 GTS automatic :D

 

It'll get a 5-lug conversion soon enough though. Spacer converters in the front probably.

 

By the way... do you know if it's possible to bolt on Nissan 300zx (Z32) parts? The diff for example, and if the rear axles might be compatible R32 > Z32?

 

 

Here's what the sucker's getting mounted in btw:

bussningar.jpg

 

bakvagnsf_sten.jpg

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Looking very impressive Mull !!!
second that comment.

 

I did not know there was a 4 lug skyline. Am I seeing this correctly?
Yep they made 4 stud skyline's alright there a many of them here in NZ - R32 and some R33 all usually Non-turbo some were only CA18 or CA20 powered too but most just RB20E or RB20DE.

 

Here is a few pics.

51744531_full_thumb.jpg

53877791_full_thumb.jpg

54231923_full_thumb.jpg

54248368_full_thumb.jpg

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That's great that it fits flush :D

 

Wondering if the S14 would be the same cause thats what I gots.

 

can't wait to blast my car in the spring. If I could make a suggestion though, mull.

 

You've most likely thought about this before mounting, but have you determined the driveshaft angle, or have you mounted the transmission/engine and the differential to see if it's within the allowable tolerance?

 

I've read the thread with the laser-alignment DIY tool, and that should help you along the way if you care to use it and haven't aligned it yet.

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Actually I already have flares, I'm trying to fill them in with some 16x7 konig rewinds lol.

 

-ed

 

 

BTW... where did you find the studs? I want to get some to weld mine in to the frame. Also do you have pictures from in the hatch? I curious to see what you had to hack up for didn't have to hack up.

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No way dude,

 

Don't feel so bad. I've seen them go for about 150 canadian, but they are usually a tad rusty.

 

I got mine for 280 Canadian (what's that? 300 US now!? hehehe)... it's got everything except the diff casing + diff, and brake calipers, both of which aren't that easy to sell seeing as everyone wants upgrades now, and both of which I would replace anyways.

 

Mine is a JDM S14 setup as well, so it has HICAS, and next to no rust. You can read why I want the HICAS just a couple of posts above. S14 HICAS differs slightly.

 

Essentially, you can find a setup that you can install (but not road ready) for around 200 US.

 

Save some cash for a good diff, which comes up on ebay for 300 or so every now and then (OBX if you just wanna thrash for a bit), and get 300zx calipers.

 

Find a local S13/14 board and start doing "WTB" (willing to buy) posts.

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That's great that it fits flush :D

 

Wondering if the S14 would be the same cause thats what I gots.

 

can't wait to blast my car in the spring. If I could make a suggestion though, mull.

 

You've most likely thought about this before mounting, but have you determined the driveshaft angle, or have you mounted the transmission/engine and the differential to see if it's within the allowable tolerance?

 

I've read the thread with the laser-alignment DIY tool, and that should help you along the way if you care to use it and haven't aligned it yet.

It should be fine. We'll see once the engine/gearbox is in : )

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