JMortensen Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 A little late now, don't you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mull Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 Do you realize that you're posting a response to a comment that was made 3 1/2 years ago? Just checking... Hey, don't bash the newcomer. You know, it's their job to bring out the defibrillator and give old/dead & buried threads a jolt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zwannabe Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 ha wow embarrassing i didn't even realize Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z2go Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 Resurrecting this thread... Vinny, are you still out there and if so, looking for some clarification on this process... do you have any pictures or diagrams on creating this flange? I like your idea but I am confused on the strip... are you saying to make the top of the strip stick out above the marked line, in a sense 'flaring' the edge out, and then grind it down flat to create a smooth edge that is flush with the body? Here's a way to get a perfect fit for you guys (providing your shop of choice or YOU,are willing to do it). ..........With bumpers off......cut a strip of wax paper long enough to wrap clear across the area where the part will make contact to the body. Tape this in place.Place the part into its final resting place for fitment and use a permanaent marker to give the top outline onto the wax paper.Remove the part. Now use some fiberglass strips wetted out with resin, and place them ON the line (wax paper line) going just about a quarter of an inch over the line and the ends of where the part ends.Let the first layer GEL,then repeat with more strips. Three builds with cloth and mat should suffice for this step. NOW....once the strips of glass has dried,(no longer tacky) Take a 36 grit sander and somewhat smooth out the texture of the glass so there are NO high spots. Reposition your body part...and attatch your newly made flange to your body part(with more glass mat/cloth and resin )that now has a " Body matched" fitment ! Of course all finishing stages are neccasary before final paint. Now,I gotta get back to work !.................Vinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powershotnt Posted December 25, 2009 Share Posted December 25, 2009 Well you guys can knock people for commenting on a 3yr old thread but this 3yr old thread probably just saved me a ton of money. My body guy told me today "please don't buy it" Back to the drawing board and there are a ton of threads on here for modifications that do not include body kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage-TechZ Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Resurrecting this thread... Vinny, are you still out there and if so, looking for some clarification on this process... do you have any pictures or diagrams on creating this flange? I like your idea but I am confused on the strip... are you saying to make the top of the strip stick out above the marked line, in a sense 'flaring' the edge out, and then grind it down flat to create a smooth edge that is flush with the body? Let me explain it this way..... 1)-Be sure and fit the body part (air dam etc.) as best you can by grinding,sanding etc. before you begin anything. Look at areas like the fender well to bumper cover zones...make them fit evenly and as perfectly as you like. 2)-Use aluminum tape thats 3" wide (available at all hardware stores for duct work) 3)-Place this tape against the painted area on your car that the body kit part will rest against or currently near. 4)-If you plan on using material such as rubber,double stick 3M tape or anything of the sort...remember that this stuff will add or displace thickness. So place these things on the aluminum tape and add another layer of alum tape to removal easier later and leave you with the best flush fit. 5)-It may be wise to lay more than one strip of tape or at least add more Masking type tape to protect your good finish on the body.(whether you use aluminum or Masking autobdy tape)-Polyester resin sticks to the paint,not to the tapes. 6) By laying neatly cut strips of fiberglass cloth (wetted) along the taped area that you've previously marked as the line where the bumper cover meets the body...about 3 layers in all will do, you've created the flange that will be later fiberglased to your cover permanently. 7)-Once the flange has cured...(DO NOT YET REMOVE IT)...re-fit the cover securely in place . 8)-working from underneath and above...fill the voids and gaps between the body and body part with more wetted strips of cloth until the full seam is secure. Use an 'L' folded cloth technique along the seam and let cure. 9)-You should be able to remove the whole part now from the car and finish bodyworking the part to perfection and no longer find the need to graft or stare at gaps once its all back together and painted. 10-I highly recommend using at LEAST a bicycle inner-tube cut rubber as a seal between the car and the part...both for friction avoidance and water and grit. Not to mention expansion/contraction guaranteed to eventually cause rust. 11)- The end result will be bumper covers etc. that will fit like they should have from the Mfr. in the first place. Cheers,Vinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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